Crank No Start
#1
Crank No Start
It's been fine until this morning. Cranks over strong, but will not start. Doesn't even attempt to catch and fire up, just cranks.
PATS I think is fine: normal blinking light when OFF, steady ON for 2-3 seconds during key ON or when Cranking, then goes out.
Fuses under the hood are ok, nothing blown.
Fuses in passenger compartment, I admit I am having a hard time checking those as I'm a big guy now and can't get under there too well. I think the only two of concern under there might be #2 and #8, both Engine Controls. Others that might be of concern are all linked to multiple components that are working ok so I think I can rule them out i.e. #19 (Anti-Theft Relay, Power Door Locks) because the power door locks work and #34 (Instrument Cluster, CCRM, Data Link Connector, Securilock Transceiver Module) because the instrument cluster is working during crank.
KM BAP in-line fuse is ok, not blown.
Fuel pump shut-off 'inertia' switch in the trunk is not popped, but I pushed on it anyway... no change, it's still down.
I also admit I cannot verify a noise from the fuel pump, because the noise from my KB intercooler pump in the front wheel well is all I can hear. I am waiting for a friend to come over and help me listen for the fuel pump hum.
Fuel filter is only about 3 months old.
I am going to have it towed to the base autoshop, put it on a lift and start looking at the fuel filter and possibly fuel pump.
Any other ideas at this point?
PATS I think is fine: normal blinking light when OFF, steady ON for 2-3 seconds during key ON or when Cranking, then goes out.
Fuses under the hood are ok, nothing blown.
Fuses in passenger compartment, I admit I am having a hard time checking those as I'm a big guy now and can't get under there too well. I think the only two of concern under there might be #2 and #8, both Engine Controls. Others that might be of concern are all linked to multiple components that are working ok so I think I can rule them out i.e. #19 (Anti-Theft Relay, Power Door Locks) because the power door locks work and #34 (Instrument Cluster, CCRM, Data Link Connector, Securilock Transceiver Module) because the instrument cluster is working during crank.
KM BAP in-line fuse is ok, not blown.
Fuel pump shut-off 'inertia' switch in the trunk is not popped, but I pushed on it anyway... no change, it's still down.
I also admit I cannot verify a noise from the fuel pump, because the noise from my KB intercooler pump in the front wheel well is all I can hear. I am waiting for a friend to come over and help me listen for the fuel pump hum.
Fuel filter is only about 3 months old.
I am going to have it towed to the base autoshop, put it on a lift and start looking at the fuel filter and possibly fuel pump.
Any other ideas at this point?
#2
I was expecting, and hoping, the fuel pump to be the problem, because then it's something I can fix rather easily.
Luckily when i arrived at the base auto hobby shop, via tow ugh, I had one of the guys rap on the tank as I cranked it and sure enough it started right up... I definitive sign it was the fuel pump.
I already had a new 255 Focus pump sitting in my parts bin (a must if you're stationed oversees with your American car) that I never swapped in for the stock, so I again lucked out having a pump.
Spent the day dropping the tank and changing the pump and started right up. Back on the road again!
Thanks all and Happy Memorial Day
Luckily when i arrived at the base auto hobby shop, via tow ugh, I had one of the guys rap on the tank as I cranked it and sure enough it started right up... I definitive sign it was the fuel pump.
I already had a new 255 Focus pump sitting in my parts bin (a must if you're stationed oversees with your American car) that I never swapped in for the stock, so I again lucked out having a pump.
Spent the day dropping the tank and changing the pump and started right up. Back on the road again!
Thanks all and Happy Memorial Day
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