Side Note: Where are you at in NC?
Long *** post but will help you a ton.
Often times in life when you buy cheap - you get cheap. And by the adverb "often" I mean "every"
Theres a few rules you can bet your *** on in the car performance world.
#1 - It costs to be the boss. There is always somebody faster and better looking than you.
#2 - You can only
have two of three of the following things: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick two.
With that being said there is something that is universally true about modular Ford motors. Forced induction is always pound for pound superior to upgrading camshafts when you are sitting as N/A.
It sounds like you have a 4v Mach. 4v Modular Fords tend to gain 25-35RWHP/RWTQ by upgrading camshafts. How much you gain depends on what other bolt ons you have and what the lift/duration of the cam specs are.
Depending on what type of forced induction you have you will gain 15-25RWHP/TQ for every pound of boost you add. My little ole 2v gains 18RWHP/17.2RWTQ for every pound of boost that I add. Also known as ****ing awesome. 4vs are even more efficient than that.
Theres good news and bad news.
The bad news when it comes to supercharging is that you have a Mach with a shaker scoop. The shaker scoop system gets in the way of a lot of key components for SC kits. This limits your options and also makes the available options more expensive and complex.
Heres some more bad news. That "$1500 Supercharger" thread is complete bull**** and for some obscure reason it is propped up as true by this forum. That thread lists the hardware cost as $748.
Theres two problems with that number. It doesn't include tax/shipping and also does not include:
-Handheld Tuner OR Chip
-Fuel Pump or Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
The only two things listed there that are even remotely optional are MAF and fuel pump or KB BAP. It is possible that you will not make enough power to overwhelm these two parts but very unlikely. It is very unwise to run your MAF or Fuel pump past 85% Duty. Running either past that point creates tune/drivability issues as well as running a very high risk of blowing the motor up. It is likely that you will need to upgrade both to run this kit. And if you don't upgrade them you most certainly wont be able to make any more power after that until they are upgraded.
Now back to that $748 hardware cost. That is the cost for GT/2v hardware - not Mach hardware. The cost for the mach hardware is $1232. And thats using the cheap *** flexible oil feed hose. If you want the stainless steel braided hose its another $60.
So for a Mach that Hardware + Supercharger cost is actually $2032. And you still have to buy Fuel Injectors/Handheld Tuner or chip/Serpentine Belt/Spark Plugs/Dyno Tune at the very least. And good chances are you will have to upgrade the MAF and add a KB BAP or SVT Focus Fuel pump to supply the power.
The "$1500 Supercharger" thread also calculates based on buying a $600-$800 low stage used Vortech head unit. These units are normally $1800-2000 New. Now superchargers are usually very resilient but imagine what a $600 supercharger headunit will perform like 2-3+ years down the road.
This kit also will not be intercooled. This means you will not be able to run anymore than 6-7 PSI and your intake air temperatures will climb quickly when getting on the throttle.
Heres the good news
Nitrous! For the cost of that cheap supercharger kit you can get a nice new nitrous kit. Nitrous would allow you to make much more horsepower and torque too for the same cost. Nitrous would also simplify all your woes with having that shake scoop intake system. You could keep your shaker and the install would be a friggin breeze compared to a supercharger.