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4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.
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Old 06-19-2014, 06:08 PM   #11
VTX1800N1
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....and the power just went out as I was about to go out in the garage and sweep up the kitty litter to finish this up. It's too hot out to open the garage door. Hasn't been my day today.

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Old 06-19-2014, 08:24 PM   #12
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Yep this is a cool father/son deal. My pops never woulda done this with me.

Another thing I like is that your properly listing a true complete list of parts/prices. People always under quote or under estimate stuff like this and it leads to bad conventional wisdom like supercharger kits can be setup for $1500.

And yes if you have ogre hands the passenger side is a real hassle. Thankfully when I have worked on that stuff a combination of proper sockets gets me to the bolts. And with a scratched up arm and some wiggling I could just barely reach the o2 sensor.

The single hardest thing i've ever had to remove was a bracket on the rear of the engine block behind the drivers cylinder head. I had to remove it for the KB install and I forgot why. It literally wasnt even attached to anything else. It must have been something as a result of the modular windsor/romeo nature of these motors. It was meant for something.....just not on my car. I think i've still got it as a token of frustration.
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Old 06-19-2014, 08:56 PM   #13
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Driver side exhaust, easy:

Click the image to open in full size.

Passenger side exhaust, not so easy:

Click the image to open in full size.

Removed the starter and K-member brace, and success:

Click the image to open in full size.

The starter did have three bolts, but only two were installed. Obviously someone removed it in its 143K mile life and didn't put the most difficult bolt back in. I'll have to source another as it's not good for the starter or flywheel to be missing that bolt. Reinstalling the starter is going to be the biggest pain of the engine installation by far.

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Old 06-20-2014, 12:06 AM   #14
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Clutch cable, driveshaft, A/C, and power steering pump removed. Should be ready to pull the motor tomorrow.

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Old 06-20-2014, 04:04 PM   #15
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By looking at the last pic your car is an automatic, want to know how i know? I just finished put the bottom end in mine engine is back in the car just haven't had the time to finish up. will post some pics once i figure out how to do it
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJL View Post
By looking at the last pic your car is an automatic, want to know how i know? I just finished put the bottom end in mine engine is back in the car just haven't had the time to finish up. will post some pics once i figure out how to do it
Um, actually, no. It's got the Tremec 5 speed manual, hence the mention of a clutch cable in my previous post....

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Old 06-20-2014, 08:43 PM   #17
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In the last picture you can see a webb in the corner of the engine block, according to Ford this type block was only used with an automatic Could be wrong
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Old 06-20-2014, 09:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJL View Post
In the last picture you can see a webb in the corner of the engine block, according to Ford this type block was only used with an automatic Could be wrong
The blocks are the same for either manual or automatic. I have no idea where you got that info, but it is not correct.

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Old 06-21-2014, 02:01 AM   #19
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I have never heard of Ford having engine block webbing differences between the autos and manuals for 99-04 Mustangs. The only thing that dictates the differences between any of the 99-04 engine blocks was what year and ford plant it was built at(Windsor/Romeo). And even there are minimal differences. Most have to do with the cylinder heads/timing sets and how they attach.
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MAC O/R H 2.5"
| Flowmaster 44 CB 2.5"
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| MM FLSCFs | J&M S/S LCAs | UPR S/S UCAs
Nitto NT05 315/35/17
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| Rebuild/Full Paint Completed 6/15/2013
Mustang's 50th Anniversary Charlotte, NC 4/16/2014-4/20/2014
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:23 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTX1800N1 View Post
Driver side exhaust, easy:

Passenger side exhaust, not so easy:

Removed the starter and K-member brace, and success:

The starter did have three bolts, but only two were installed. Obviously someone removed it in its 143K mile life and didn't put the most difficult bolt back in. I'll have to source another as it's not good for the starter or flywheel to be missing that bolt. Reinstalling the starter is going to be the biggest pain of the engine installation by far.
Oh yeah, that passenger side exhaust always sucks. I always leave that top starter bolt out. Never had a problem. If it were shimmed like the SBC starters, it would be necessary, but I see absolutely no benefit to it being there.
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Old 06-21-2014, 03:23 AM
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