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2002 engine rebuild

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Old 06-21-2014, 06:13 AM   #21
WJL
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Ok whatever you say.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
I have never heard of Ford having engine block webbing differences between the autos and manuals for 99-04 Mustangs. The only thing that dictates the differences between any of the 99-04 engine blocks was what year and ford plant it was built at(Windsor/Romeo). And even there are minimal differences. Most have to do with the cylinder heads/timing sets and how they attach.
Crankshafts are different too. Windsor is 8 bolt and Romeo is 6 bolt in most cases, IIRC. That also means different flywheel or flex plate for manual/automatic.

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Old 06-22-2014, 05:44 PM   #23
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Default Motor is out

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Old 06-22-2014, 07:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC316 View Post
Oh yeah, that passenger side exhaust always sucks. I always leave that top starter bolt out. Never had a problem. If it were shimmed like the SBC starters, it would be necessary, but I see absolutely no benefit to it being there.
I tried to convince myself that it was ok to leave the top starter bolt out until I got a close look at the bolt bosses on the trans that those bolts go in to.

There's not much meat there and its aluminum at that so I had to put that top bolt back in to be able to sleep at nights.

Getting to these bolts isn't too bad if you using a 24" extension from the front with a universal joint on it, but this was on lift with another pair of hands to get the socket set on the bolt head.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:02 PM   #25
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Default And now we see why cylinders 3 & 4 weren't firing...

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Old 06-22-2014, 09:04 PM   #26
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There were seven bolts on the passenger side cam retainer bosses that were finger tight or less. The bosses flexed and all four rockers for cylinders 3 & 4 fell out. I thought by the compression test and misfire codes that the lifters had collapsed. Turns out it was even worse than that.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:56 PM   #27
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I was surprised to see cast iron, ratcheting tensioners when I took the timing cover off:



ForumRunner_20140623_185542.jpg

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Old 06-23-2014, 08:00 PM   #28
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Thin coat of sludge in the oil pan:



ForumRunner_20140623_195643.jpg

Overall, not too bad for 143K miles:



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Old 06-23-2014, 08:13 PM   #29
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ForumRunner_20140623_201258.jpg



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Old 06-24-2014, 01:53 AM   #30
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Hey man I think you might want to have those things connnected haha.

Thats pretty crazy that the bosses would flex. That is completely abnormal wear/defect. I dont think i've ever heard of bosses flexing and rocker/rollers just falling the hell out. Something along the way caused the bizarre behavior with those lifters/rockers/valves.

I wonder if the worn/cracked component started to let the cam run incorrectly. As small as that difference would be.

This is good stuff. Keep doing work!
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:02 AM   #31
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It could be that someone was in the engine for some reason and didn't properly torque the cams down. That's the only reason I can think of for the loose bolts, cracked boss/cam bridge, and resulting ejected rockers.

The good news is that even with all the miles and malfunction of this engine, the cylinder walls look really good and there is no wear ridge at the top. We are still probably going to get it bored .020 over.

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:42 AM   #32
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Default Removed the pistons- not good...

Bearing material found on the 1/5 rod journal:

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1/5 rod bearings both looked like this:

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:44 AM   #33
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3 & 8 pistons both showed this wear toward the front of the engine:

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:47 AM   #34
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Default Rod journals:

1/5:

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2/6:

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3/7:

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4/8:

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:49 AM   #35
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Default #6 piston, by far the worst. Oil starvation and/or overheating

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:50 AM   #36
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Default #1 piston looked the best of them all

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Old 06-27-2014, 10:52 AM   #37
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There is a dual "flange" behind the center freeze plug on both sides. It makes tilting the freeze plug to get it out a major pain in the ***. The plug bottoms out against the flange and won't tilt. I had to drill a hole in both plugs in order to weaken them so they would bend enough to get them to tilt so I could grab them with my channel locks and yank them out.

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Old 06-27-2014, 11:02 AM   #38
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It's a little ironic that #2 and #6 showed the best compression on the test @ 190 PSI each, given the damage to the #6 piston:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/8384462-post21.html
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:05 AM   #39
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I have all the main bolts (and side bolts) out, I just need to figure out how to get the main caps off. They are in there TIGHT. I'll then be able to remove the crank and inspect the main bearings. After that, I have 2 freeze plugs on the back and some dowels to remove from the block and it's off to the machine shop.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:00 PM   #40
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I guess it might help if I remembered to back off the jack screws before attempting to remove the main caps. DOH! Oh well, the crank is out. I took some photos but they turned out blurry. The camera keeps wanting to focus through the cylinder and on the floor at stuff there. I'll have to try again and post pics of the main bearings and crank. Once again it looks like the crank took no damage. All 5 main bearings are trashed, with them getting progressively worse from front to rear. This points to oil starvation once again.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:00 PM
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