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2002 engine rebuild

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Old 09-02-2014, 07:30 AM   #81
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Are you planning to POR any of the suspension components? When the winter gets here, I'm planning on upgrading my rear control arms, springs, shocks/struts, and gears. At that time I was going to POR/paint my control arms in the front, rear end, and various other components.

I would like to see some of those components painted with that satin black POR, but understand if that's not on the list.

Ready to see the finished product.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:10 PM   #82
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The K member will be. Everything else will be brand new factory parts (other than the powder coated SVE rear control arms, which are already in), so we probably won't paint any of that.

EDIT: We are going to POR the steering knuckles and the back side of the bearing/hub assemblies (which are brand new, I just got the Timken units in from Rock Auto today.

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Old 09-03-2014, 04:18 PM   #83
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Still no pistons or rods. I ordered these parts a month ago. I'm not impressed with ModMax...

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Old 09-04-2014, 07:13 AM   #84
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Thanks for logging your troubles with them. Will make sure I stay away if I ever need something that they offer.

Is there any particular reason that you went with them in the first place?
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:58 PM   #85
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They had the best price on a package deal for internals. I'm only one customer experience, and things fall through the cracks sometimes. I really hope they step up soon or I'm going to have to reverse the charges on my credit card.

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Old 09-04-2014, 05:31 PM   #86
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So, nothing again today. I have a block and crankshaft sitting at a machine shop waiting on parts....

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Old 09-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #87
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Got a tracking number for the pistons. They finally shipped today and should be here Tuesday. No confirmation on the rods yet.....

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Old 09-08-2014, 11:40 PM   #88
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Connecting rods arrived today. Pistons are scheduled to be here tomorrow. That completes everything we need to get the machine shop work done (internal balance and ring fitting). I'll take pictures before I send everything off to the shop on Wednesday.

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Old 09-11-2014, 10:27 AM   #89
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PARTS! Finally, internals are all here. Going to the machine shop for balancing and ring fitment tomorrow:

Manley 4340 .020 over forged pistons. 11cc dish, resulting in 10.53:1 compression ratio:

Click the image to open in full size.

Plasma Moly ring set:

Click the image to open in full size.

King rod and main bearings set:

Click the image to open in full size.

RPM International 4340 forged H-beam rods with ARP 2000 hardware:

Click the image to open in full size.

This engine is going to be strong!

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Old 09-12-2014, 07:37 AM   #90
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I need to think twice before subing to threads like this. They make me want to spend money.
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Old 09-12-2014, 01:23 PM   #91
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Dropped the parts off at the shop. Owner said the rod bushings are too tight, as I suspected. He will fit them for $40. Going to take two weeks to get the rods fit, rings filed, and balance. Then we start the assembly.

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Old 09-24-2014, 08:53 PM   #92
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Machine shop called today. Everything is done. Total damage is $832.50. That's a block, timing cover, and rear oil seal housing hot tanked, decked, mains checked for alignment, bored and honed .020 over, internals balanced, crank polished, rings fitted, and rods fitted to pins to float properly. Will pick it up sometime next week.

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Old 09-24-2014, 09:54 PM   #93
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On a brighter note, my son started working a job where he is making some decent money, so that opens up some possibilities. On the upper end- he might be able to swing some TFS heads. At the very least, he will get some BBK long tubes and a catted H-pipe and an ATI super damper. If he can swing the TFS heads, this will be a very strong N/A motor. I emailed MHS and they estimated 11.25:1 compression with the 38cc TFS heads. They recommended 30# injectors and a larger MAF with a tune.
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:31 PM   #94
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Engine block and internals are back. Have to get it on the stand. First step is painting it. He bought a POR 15 engine paint kit in Ford Blue.

Already painted the timing cover in natural aluminum with engine paint from LMR.

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Old 10-08-2014, 03:44 AM   #95
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Started the piston assembly last night. I think they may have sent me the wrong wire locks. There is absolutely NO WAY these locks are going into the pin bores. I'm not a small guy, and fairly strong. I gave it all I had trying to get a lock in a pin bore. I got it 1/3 to 1/2 of the way in and no more. I've watched video after video on how to install wire locks and none of them had to use anywhere near as much force. I think these wire locks are for bigger diameter pins. I don't see how it will ever be possible to get them installed.

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Old 10-08-2014, 08:25 PM   #96
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Figured out a way to get the wire locks installed, and without any tools. It's not anything I've seen anywhere else, rather a combination of techniques I found on YouTube. I might make my own how-to visit to help others.

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Old 10-17-2014, 07:06 PM   #97
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I'm having a hell of a time getting the engine back on the stand. It was pretty difficult when I took it apart, and I think the only reason I got it on at all was because the thread pitch of the bolts I used to mount it was slightly off the M10x1.5 that is correct. I think the slop in the threads allowed it to work, but I don't want to do that again.

The problem is that the arms for the stand are not long enough. I asked the guy I borrowed the stand from and he said they routinely mount Chevy 350 blocks on it. It says on the side that it's rated for 1250 lbs, so it's not a small stand. I can get 3 of the 4 arms mounted, but not the last one. It's about 1/4" too short.

I've been looking for longer arms, but I cannot find anyone that sells them. I also cannot find anyone that sells an engine stand that states that it's big enough for Ford modular motors.

Any ideas?
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:33 PM   #98
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Figured this out. I had to remove one of the transmission locating dowels. That was a real bear to get out. It was the original, and with 143K miles, it was stuck in there good. It took me a while with a pipe wrench turning it and pulling, but I got it out. I've already got a new one here as part of a plug and dowel kit. That hole was close enough for me to get the last arm to reach over and get the bolt in, just barely.

It's on the stand and ready for paint.
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:47 AM   #99
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Got the block back and mounted on the stand. That was a pain. The first time I put it on the stand the bolts I used were not quite the right thread pitch, so there was some slop and I was able to get all 4 arms of the stand to reach. This time I went out and bought the proper bolts (M10x1.5), and there is no way the arms were going to reach to get all 4 attached to the engine. I had to remove one of the transmission locating dowels that was original to the block. That took me a while, working it out by turning it with a pipe wrench. The good part is that we have replacements here already.

Now for the bad news... the machine shop didn't bore cylinder 4 correctly. Either the boring machine didn't go all the way to the bottom, or it got off-center at the very bottom of the cylinder. After getting the block on the stand and starting to prep it for paint, I could see the ridge in the bottom of cylinder 4. I can feel it and it's definitely a problem. I had this machine work done before I ordered the pistons and confirmed with the shop that .020 over was going to work. So, I have to contact them Monday. I don't think they can correct this without making the cylinder too big (going .030), which means one of two solutions:

1. They buy us a different block and machine it to .020 over, hoping they get it right this time.

2. They machine this block to .030 over (max for this block) and buy us new pistons and rings and then rebalance the rotating assembly, which will mean adding some weight to the crank (expensive).

Either way, it's their mistake. I really hope they step up and fix their error. This could get ugly....

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Old 10-19-2014, 05:39 PM   #100
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Looks as though it was set up wrong as it appears the bore job is off center. Good Luck
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:39 PM
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