4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
This looks like either improper casting- as in the casting for the cylinder didn't extend far enough down into the block, or part of the block cracked and fell off. I wouldn't worry so much about it, but when I pass my finger over it, I can feel how rough it is on the cylinder wall. The piston extends below this at BDC, so it definitely came into contact with the defect. This was on cylinder 6, which was the piston that was scuffed the worst. I think this might have been there for quite a long time and may have been the source of metal that went through the engine. Look at the 6 - 7 o'clock position at the bottom of the cylinder bore:
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
Well look at it this way...You get a whole bunch of new parts and can build it your way. Nothing like good carnage posts.
I would deburr all areas in that block it looks a mess especially under #6. I agree that looks like a casting issue on the block. I don't think it went thru the engine as it would have shown up with it's destruction much earlier than now.
Good luck with the build.
2000 GT Spring Edition
Steeda UDP, PRO 5.0, Autometer, UPR, FRPP 4.30 w/31 spline, SFC, SLP Damn money Pit
Machine shop is going to chamfer the bottom of 6 to eliminate that issue. He is buying brand new heads, so these will get recycled at the junk yard. Crank is going to get polished. Not sure yet if we'll need under size main/rod bearings.
Wow great pictures, so the cam retainer or whats left of it clogged the oil passages causing the bearing failure. Good luck with the rebuild.
Not quite. The bolts for the camshafts were loose. I'm not sure why; if they loosened over time or if someone had been into the engine and didn't torque them properly. The result was that the retainer bridges got loose and the cam started to eat them and the journals in the head. This galling closed off the oil feed holes at the journals, causing even more galling. It eventually got so bad that aluminum bits from the head went through the entire engine, destroying all the bearings in the short block and causing extreme scuffing on cylinder 6 and minor scuffing on 3 and 8. I checked the driver side head and found similar, though not as bad, galling. All but the rear most oil feed hole in the journals was closed off by galling in the driver side head. I'm really surprised the engine didn't seize.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor