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-   -   2002 engine rebuild (http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang/711028-2002-engine-rebuild.html)

VTX1800N1 06-17-2014 09:00 PM

2002 engine rebuild
 
Started in on the tear down today. Got my son's car in the garage and have most of the top end disassembled. We are going to pull the engine and transmission together. He's 19 and this is his first car. It's going to be a good father/son project. I'll detail the whole process, from engine removal, tear down, parts selection, rebuild, and installation here. A few pictures from our progress thus far:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_3642.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/IMG_3638.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/IMG_3639.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/IMG_3641.JPG

VTX1800N1 06-17-2014 09:11 PM

Above we have the coolant and oil drained, intake, injectors and fuel rail all removed. Also removed the coolant overflow. I sprayed the exhaust manifold to cat downpipe bolts with penetrant so that they can soak overnight.

In addition to the engine rebuild, we are draining and refilling the transmission and replacing the output shaft seal (it has a small leak). The car has 143K miles. The primary O2 sensors look like they are new. I'm not sure about the clutch yet. The seller said it was recently replaced and by the look of the exhaust bolts, they have probably been removed not long ago so that would corroborate that. It must have been out of adjustment, though, because there was a lot of pedal travel before it started to engage.

Other items we are working on: all new rear control arms and spring isolators already installed. New front control arms and struts are already here. The differential pinion seal is leaking badly and will need to be replaced along with the fluid. He needs new brakes all around. I will get the fuel injectors cleaned and tested. Will likely replace the EGR and IAC valves. Going to flush the power steering fluid. A/C works great so we are not going to touch that.

Hangwire 06-18-2014 01:12 AM

Keep posting on this build. Good detailed work to be witnessed.

Looks oh so familiar right now. How much of a pain in the ass was the EGR valve to yank off? That was a real hassle for me. Heres a few pics from my disassembly when I installed the supercharger.

http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...ps541f915c.jpg

http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/...psbf32672d.jpg

VTX1800N1 06-18-2014 01:24 AM

Getting it off the throttle body wasn't difficult at all. You can see it's still hanging there on the tube. We are going to leave it there until after the engine is out. There's not much room on the back side between the engine and firewall.

VTX1800N1 06-18-2014 01:39 AM

Here are the parts we will be using:

ROTATING ASSEMBLY:

www.modmaxracing.com

Forged Manley pistons, .020 over

ModMax 4340 Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ ARP2000 bolts

ModMax Plasma Moly File Fit Rings

King Rod and Main Bearings

Crankshaft delete (from kit, will reuse stock crank)

Compression ratio with 11cc dished pistons and the stock PI combustion chamber should be ~10.5:1

$1150

New Ford full timing set: $186 http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/ (on sale)

Full gasket set, $280: http://www.modmaxracing.com/mobile/p...9790pt-16.htm=

Block plug and dowel kit, $26: http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-60....html?___SID=U

Complete cylinder heads, $420 each:
http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-6049-p46.html

http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-6050-p46.html

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VTX1800N1 06-18-2014 04:38 PM

More parts going into this rebuild:

Ford Racing High Volume Oil Pump & Pickup: $87.27 http://www.modmaxracing.com/ProductD...0-D46&CartID=4

Crank pulley (harmonic balancer) bolt: $28.77 http://www.modmaxracing.com/ProductD...-2501&CartID=3

Main stud kit ARP: $117.41 http://www.modmaxracing.com/ProductD...-5401&CartID=5

Side bolt kit ARP: $52.64 http://www.modmaxracing.com/ProductD...-5201&CartID=6

Ford Racing cylinder head bolts- complete engine: $49.99 http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/

Camshaft bolt and washer kit: $34.99 http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/

Water pump: $45 http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...46L-Water-Pump

Radiator hoses, $120: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...-Kit-96-04-SVE

Thermostat, $20: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ent-Thermostat

Spark plugs, $20: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ft-Spark-Plugs

Serpentine belt, $35: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...lt-00-04-GT-Co

Serpentine belt tensioner, $45: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ensioner-00-04

VTX1800N1 06-19-2014 01:17 PM

Almost done with what I consider to be the most difficult part of this project (at least the engine removal part): disconnecting the exhaust. The driver side was cake. The nuts are easily accessible with a 1/2" drive and two short extensions, a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter, and a 15MM deep well. I had them both out in 5 minutes. You can easily reach up and disconnect the O2 sensors. I've got mongo large hands and even I was able to get in there and disconnect them.

The passenger side is another matter. First, the starter is in the way. You can remove the starter by first removing the electrical connections (one 1/2" and one 10MM). These can be accessed with several (at least 2) long extensions by going front to back through the K-member and positioning the ratchet near the sway bar. You can look directly up from below the starter so that you can see where the sockets are going.

You can then access the starter bolts the same way. The bottom bolt can be seen from the same position as you used to remove the electrical connection nuts. The top bolt is another story. If you look at the rear (car perspective) of the starter and up above the bolt you just loosened (don't remove the lower bolt completely), you can see the mounting boss in the transmission bell housing for the other bolt. You can get to that bolt the same way, you just cannot see it. You have to fish the socket back there above the starter on several extensions (it helps if one is a wobble extension).

Eventually you will get the socket on the upper bolt. Hold it there and attach your ratchet to the extensions out by the sway bar and remove it. I recommend you remove the upper bolt first to make sure it's all the way out of the threads. It might be quite a challenge if it was part way out, with the bottom bolt removed, and you remove the socket from the bolt head and now have to try to get it back on with the starter flopping around on one loose bolt. I noted that the starter has 3 bolt mounts, but there were only 2 bolts securing the starter to the transmission. I'm not yet sure if there are three transmission bolt holes- just as I was starting the next step, I mostly tipped over the 5 qt oil pan full of used oil I had drained. It went everywhere, and right now I'm waiting on kitty litter to soak it up.

Next I removed the K-member lower cross brace. It's only 2 bolts and they zipped right out with my impact. That should give me enough clearance to get that last exhaust manifold to cat downpipe nut.


I probably could have had the engine out by now if not for that mess.... all I've got left is to remove the driveshaft, transmission mount bolts, engine mount bolts, and then hook up the cherry picker.

uberstang1 06-19-2014 02:21 PM

You got a nice father son project goin keep up the posts

CalBoy101 06-19-2014 04:34 PM

cams, Cams, CAMS!!!

VTX1800N1 06-19-2014 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CalBoy101 (Post 8400145)
cams, Cams, CAMS!!!

Unfortunately, that's not something he's going to have money for...

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VTX1800N1 06-19-2014 06:08 PM

....and the power just went out as I was about to go out in the garage and sweep up the kitty litter to finish this up. It's too hot out to open the garage door. Hasn't been my day today.

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Hangwire 06-19-2014 08:24 PM

Yep this is a cool father/son deal. My pops never woulda done this with me.

Another thing I like is that your properly listing a true complete list of parts/prices. People always under quote or under estimate stuff like this and it leads to bad conventional wisdom like supercharger kits can be setup for $1500.

And yes if you have ogre hands the passenger side is a real hassle. Thankfully when I have worked on that stuff a combination of proper sockets gets me to the bolts. And with a scratched up arm and some wiggling I could just barely reach the o2 sensor.

The single hardest thing i've ever had to remove was a bracket on the rear of the engine block behind the drivers cylinder head. I had to remove it for the KB install and I forgot why. It literally wasnt even attached to anything else. It must have been something as a result of the modular windsor/romeo nature of these motors. It was meant for something.....just not on my car. I think i've still got it as a token of frustration.

VTX1800N1 06-19-2014 08:56 PM

Driver side exhaust, easy:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/IMG_3650.JPG

Passenger side exhaust, not so easy:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/IMG_3649.JPG

Removed the starter and K-member brace, and success:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/IMG_3651.JPG

The starter did have three bolts, but only two were installed. Obviously someone removed it in its 143K mile life and didn't put the most difficult bolt back in. I'll have to source another as it's not good for the starter or flywheel to be missing that bolt. Reinstalling the starter is going to be the biggest pain of the engine installation by far.

VTX1800N1 06-20-2014 12:06 AM

Clutch cable, driveshaft, A/C, and power steering pump removed. Should be ready to pull the motor tomorrow.

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WJL 06-20-2014 04:04 PM

By looking at the last pic your car is an automatic, want to know how i know? I just finished put the bottom end in mine engine is back in the car just haven't had the time to finish up. will post some pics once i figure out how to do it

VTX1800N1 06-20-2014 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WJL (Post 8400474)
By looking at the last pic your car is an automatic, want to know how i know? I just finished put the bottom end in mine engine is back in the car just haven't had the time to finish up. will post some pics once i figure out how to do it

Um, actually, no. It's got the Tremec 5 speed manual, hence the mention of a clutch cable in my previous post....

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WJL 06-20-2014 08:43 PM

In the last picture you can see a webb in the corner of the engine block, according to Ford this type block was only used with an automatic Could be wrong

VTX1800N1 06-20-2014 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WJL (Post 8400548)
In the last picture you can see a webb in the corner of the engine block, according to Ford this type block was only used with an automatic Could be wrong

The blocks are the same for either manual or automatic. I have no idea where you got that info, but it is not correct.

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Hangwire 06-21-2014 02:01 AM

I have never heard of Ford having engine block webbing differences between the autos and manuals for 99-04 Mustangs. The only thing that dictates the differences between any of the 99-04 engine blocks was what year and ford plant it was built at(Windsor/Romeo). And even there are minimal differences. Most have to do with the cylinder heads/timing sets and how they attach.

JC316 06-21-2014 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTX1800N1 (Post 8400225)
Driver side exhaust, easy:

Passenger side exhaust, not so easy:

Removed the starter and K-member brace, and success:

The starter did have three bolts, but only two were installed. Obviously someone removed it in its 143K mile life and didn't put the most difficult bolt back in. I'll have to source another as it's not good for the starter or flywheel to be missing that bolt. Reinstalling the starter is going to be the biggest pain of the engine installation by far.

Oh yeah, that passenger side exhaust always sucks. I always leave that top starter bolt out. Never had a problem. If it were shimmed like the SBC starters, it would be necessary, but I see absolutely no benefit to it being there.


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