Sandmanbjj

The k member came down pretty easily. I wish I would have just done it from the start.
I have the driver side header in and the passender side has a stripped hole in the head. So I'm currently tapping it. But once that's done I'm going to lock down the headers. Install my starter while I can get to it easily then bring the k member up. Button up all the loose ends.

Sandmanbjj

Ok. headers are in place, K member is up. Everything is buttoned up. The stuff I have remaining are reconnecting the CAI, putting the battery in, tightening all points on the exhaust. and finding the O2 sensor connection for the driver side. I must have left it on top of the transmission when I bolted it all back together. So now I have to try and get it down so I can connect it.

quick question- the flange on my header is slightly bent. the studs wont go through the flange on the mid pipe by about 1/8 inch on both sides. Can I elongate the hole or cut open the hole on one side to allow for the bend? It would still sit right in the flared ends and seal, its looks like just the edge of the flange that's bent. Like it was dropped during shipping.

Sandmanbjj

Finally done. Everything is buttoned up. About to reprogram the pcm and fire it up. I hoperating there are no issues.

98snakehorse

How did this end up working out for you? I always reccomend if going with Longtubes to upgrade the K-member to a tubular one. Really helps give that extra room.

Sandmanbjj

I got it all together and drove it to tampa. About 1000 miles. Ran great but had an exhaust leak in the driver side header gasket. So sunday i dropped the k member again, and swapped out the gaskets and bolted it all back.together. it purrs like a kitten now... more like a growl but it sounds so.nice!!!
on a side note, I will be upgrading to a tubular k member in about a month. K member, coil overs, A arms, and caster camber plates.
Can the headers be worked on easily with a tubular k member still in place?

WhiteFoxGT

makes life a lot easier