TXMach

I daily drive a 2003 Mach 1 with bolt-ons, stock internals, stock fuel system (24# injectors are stock), and stock exhaust manifolds on 93 octane. I'm looking to make the maximum safe amount of HP/TQ for the occasional highway confrontation.

In particular, I'd like advice on the following:

1) Highest quality equipment

2) Dry vs. wet

3) How big of a shot is too big?

4) Spark plug type/gaps, window switch, bottle heater, purge kit, safety blow down, remote bottle opener, console switch panels, and basically any other important details

Thanks in advance!

bluebeastsrt

1. Nos, nitrous express, zex are all high quality systems. Might want to ad a better fuel pump. Something like a walbro 255.
2. Wet is safer.
3. 150 max. All though I did hit my old 5.0 with a 200 shot with no ill effects.
4. Spark plugs should be one step colder for ever 50hp of nitrous. The car will not run as good when your not spraying. I just changed out the plugs on race night. Gap should be tighter. .25-.30. A large gap will melt your electrode. A nitrous controller isn't a bad idea but you have to use top quality selonoids with the controller. You don't need a controller if you plan on spraying off the line with a full shot. The basic kit will be fine for that purpose. All the other items mentioned are pretty much a must have for a proper operating nitrous system. My car went 10.5 on the 200 shot with a bolt on H/C/I 5.0.

TXMach

Thanks for the reply, this was exactly the type of response I was looking for. Thanks for actually reading what I posted.

I'm starting to see that no matter what there will be some give and take. If I have the car prepped for a 150-shot, it will run poorly while not spraying.

How much more poorly would you say it will run with colder and more narrowly gapped spark plugs? Rough idle, poor fuel efficiency, hesitation?

I'm definitely not going for 1/4 mile times so I won't be launching on the bottle. I plan to drive normally as always, but in the event of someone lining up with me on the highway, I'd be able to spray after "the flip of a few switches" that open the bottle and arm and purge the system.

I'm probably not being realistic. I don't know how long it takes to heat the bottle properly. I also don't know how crazy I might sound, which is why I'm asking.

I'd appreciate any further advice you may have. Thanks again.

bluebeastsrt

It'll only runs crappy at idle with the colder plugs. Once your on the throttle it straights out. An MSD ignition helps! As far as using it on the highway I cant comment as I've only used it at the track. But you'd want to have your bottle warmer on all the time for a street race so you'd have nitrous pressure readily available. You'd also want a remote bottle opener so you don't have to get out of the car to open the bottle. Nitrous is just like any other power adder. If used properly it's safe and fun. If you get carried away it can do a lot of damage to your engine. Find someone to set the system up properly is the biggest thing. But there is a lot of people out there that use their nitrous for street use.

TXMach

I can trade a nice idle for a substantial gain. I have MSD blaster COPs so hopefully that helps.

I'll just go for it and do my best to make the setup as safe and reliable as possible.

Thank you very much for your advice.

TXMach

I've seen that timing needs to be retarded a few degrees in order to compensate for the cylinder being so much more packed with oxygen while spraying. How does one go about this while tuning?

Is there a way to tune so that timing will retard to a set degree automatically when nitrous is activated, then return to normal timing after nitrous is deactivated?

Or do I have to run two separate tunes, one with normal timing and a whole other one with retarded timing for when I want to spray?

WhiteFoxGT

I would set the car back to the factory tune...Custom 93 tunes have the timing advanced as far as possible, which is not good once you throw nitrous into the mix.

the only way i see to easily change tunes for that would be a "chip" tuner with a selector chip

bluebeastsrt

You could run a timing retard switch inside the car. You dial the timing to what you want from your seat. Or you can get separate tunes that can be separated by a switch. But honestly the more stuff you ad to the system it just more stuff to go wrong and your rebuilding an engine. You really need to take the car to a professional if your going to try the things mentioned above.

WhiteFoxGT

On my 98 cobra, i ran one step colder plugs, stock tune, wet 100 shot, and a window switch set from 3400-6600rpm. Not a whole lot involved. Like i stated before, if you already have a 93 tune return it to stock before you attempt to throw nitrous at it

bluebeastsrt

Here's a link on nitrous tuning. Pay special attention to ignition timing section. I'm not saying the above advice is wrong. I would just recommend reducing the timing even more than the stock timing. OP do a quick google search on nitrous tuning and there is plenty of articles like the one I posted below to help you out.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...treet-n-strip/