2001 Mustang gt front brakes.
#1
2001 Mustang gt front brakes.
Hello.
I am going to be replacing my front brakes, and all I need to know is what torque wrench setting do I use for the bolts and the guide pins?
Thanks for your time.
I am going to be replacing my front brakes, and all I need to know is what torque wrench setting do I use for the bolts and the guide pins?
Thanks for your time.
Last edited by EJA32; 03-28-2015 at 01:51 PM.
#2
Manual says 96Lb Ft. Seems like a lot to me. I personally have used the German measurement, Goot-n-tite on my vehicles. Never lost a brake caliper.
Last edited by dhavi4226; 03-29-2015 at 06:38 AM.
#3
I actually think that the torque setting of lug nuts is more important than this,but few guys take the time....I've never lost a wheel either.
#5
Thanks again for the reply's. My next question is their a right pattern in putting in the pads? I ask because ask I was Finshing up on the driver side with the piston all the way down I could not get the caliper on, then I saw on the back of the back one of the rivets or stud or whatever its called its not flush with the back of the pad. Was is this made wrong or do one of theses pads go on the piston side of each caliper?
#7
Thanks I got them on the right way. Now I'm sitting in my car pumping the brakes and it does not seem like the fluid is going down that much. :/
P.s. I did not bleed the front calipers when replacing pad. I undid the brake master cap then pushed pistons back with c-clamp now I am trying to get the fluid back in to the lines.
P.s. I did not bleed the front calipers when replacing pad. I undid the brake master cap then pushed pistons back with c-clamp now I am trying to get the fluid back in to the lines.
Last edited by EJA32; 03-30-2015 at 01:30 PM. Reason: add more info
#8
Forgive me if I'm pointing out something you already know:
Without a vacuum bleeder, bleeding the brakes is almost a two person job. One person in the car pumps the brakes until the pedal gets stiff and holds it there. The other person loosens the bleeder nipple on the caliper and lets the bubbles and fluid out. Then retightens the nipple. Repeat the process until no more bubbles are seen coming out and only new fluid is coming out. Proceed to the next caliper repeating the same process. Start with rear passenger, followed by rear driver, front passenger, then front driver. I believe that is the correct order. You start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder then work your way towards it.
Without a vacuum bleeder, bleeding the brakes is almost a two person job. One person in the car pumps the brakes until the pedal gets stiff and holds it there. The other person loosens the bleeder nipple on the caliper and lets the bubbles and fluid out. Then retightens the nipple. Repeat the process until no more bubbles are seen coming out and only new fluid is coming out. Proceed to the next caliper repeating the same process. Start with rear passenger, followed by rear driver, front passenger, then front driver. I believe that is the correct order. You start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder then work your way towards it.
#9
Thanks for the replay westang.
I read the article from edmunds.com: http://http://www.edmunds.com/how-to...rake-pads.html (I read section 8)
This made a lot of sense, and after reading this I drove the car in my drive way to see how she braked and it felt good
I read the article from edmunds.com: http://http://www.edmunds.com/how-to...rake-pads.html (I read section 8)
This made a lot of sense, and after reading this I drove the car in my drive way to see how she braked and it felt good
#10
Caliper slide mounting brackets are usually 35-36 ft lbs for the front and 25-35 ft lbs for the rear.
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