VTX1800N1

Against my advice, used cylinder heads were installed on this rebuilt short block. There was no machine shop work done to the heads. No parts in the heads were replaced. All new timing components were used, however.

The knock is RPM Dependant and seems to follow the camshaft speed rather than the crank/position speed. Using a stethoscope, the noise is definitely loudest on the timing cover. It seems to be isolated to the passenger side (bank 1). It is loudest about half way down the front of the cover, making me think it is timing chain/tensioner related. The block behind the alternator is quiet. The passenger valve cover has the noise when probed by a stethoscope, and it gets louder from back going to the front. It's loudest right over the timing gear, again suggesting timing problems. For a new engine, it seems down on power and there is a strong vibration around 2K RPM.

Posting this to document what I find. Right now I think it's a toss up between lash adjusters and timing chain tensioner/arms (which were new).

VTX1800N1

Also, the noise does not change by placing a load on the engine or by disabling an injector. This tells me it's not in the short block.

jwog666

pull the valve covers and check to see if they are getting oil, it sounds like collapsed cam followers, sometimes the oil passage in the head plugs with debris and no oil makes it to them ,then wiped cam and journals. i have seen this more than once

HeilmanMotorsports

I dont know if this will be of any help but on my npi motor I replaced all the valve seals and springs and I ended up with that exact same sound. I didn't know the cause so I I bought and swapped motor for a pi motor. I think jwogg666 may be on to something.

MaxxRPM

Sounds like your mechanical timing is off by a tooth on that side. If its still getting oil, then that's probably it.

VTX1800N1

I haven't had much time to look at it, but I'm starting to suspect that they set the timing wrong. it has no power above 3000 RPM.

VTX1800N1

Pulled the valves covers. found the upper bolt in the straight timing chain guide on Bank 1 missing. I don't know if they forgot it or if it was loose and fell out into the engine somewhere.

I also did a compression test. Bank 1 was all between 190 and 195. Bank 2 was all between 95 and 120. This is why it has no power. I'm hoping they just set the timing on Bank 2 wrong and the valves have not hit the pistons. Otherwise, it's likely the used cylinder heads that were installed (bad valves). The engine would have to come out because ARP head studs were installed.

jwog666

the valves will not contact the pistons on a 2v, unless the cams have been replaced with aftermarket pieces. you might get lucky and the bank 2 cam be off a few teeth, but i would pull the front cover regardless and using a magnet on a stick check to make sure that that bolt isnt rattling around in the cover or oil pan somewhere

VTX1800N1

I have to pull the timing cover to fix the guide anyway.

oxfordgt

jwog666 cam followers can't collapse they are solid stamped steel. You probably ment lash adjusters.

Anyway judging by the sound you will be tearing that engine apart. The knock sounds like a spun bearing but that isn't the big issue. Those compression readings on bank 2 are. Timing being off 1 tooth or a couple would give you a 0 reading for compression. A bent valve for the valve smacking the piston at 1 tooth off (yes 2v is a zero tolerance engine) will give you a 0 reading on a compression test. 95-125 readings could mean a couple things. scratched cylinders, bad rings, bad valve seats. You need to do a leakdown test to be sure or the backyard mechanic teaspoon of oil in the cylinder compression test.

Good luck.