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Just some information to keep everyone up to speed on what we ran into problem wise. plus other tips and tricks.
Upon tearing down the 4.6, we opted to lift the motor and trans through the hood as opposed to lowering the K-Member. Now because the vehicle had BBK long tubes, which were a pain to try and disconnect everything came up with the trans.
By the time we disconnected the wiring harness, fuel delivery, drive shaft and other items within 2 hours we were pulling the motor. One thing to learn when pulling the engine from the top, remove your brake reservoir level sensor. We sheared mine off.
The engine will also fight you just a tad with the headers, which can't be easily removed until out of the car, and even then it is a pan in the *** because of bolts hidden behind the tube runners, so takig everything up and out was no easy task. It required us lifting and pulling on engine a few times, lowering it down a bit, shift angle on hoist, rinse and repeat.
I went with an Aluminum radiator from AM. the SR unit received very good reviews and dropped right in without issue, it does hower require you to slightly adjust ABS lines to lower it in, but once in place... no issues.
The motor mounts were replaced with Poly based FRPP parts acquired from Blue Oval industries. Removing the Navigator mounts and slapping the Poly units on was a 10 minute job tops.
The intake system, if you go with the Sullivan and want hassle free plug n play adaptability, use the unit with the water cross over. You have to physically request it when you buy the unit., I also opted to go with their fuel rails and top hat, then purchased a used Mach 1 TB to attach it all.
Oil Filter Adapter housing. You need to take the one off your old 4.6 motor as it is a straight-ish 90 degree unit. Where as the Navigator unit is more angled out at 45 degrees. Just a few bolts and they swap. Remember to replace the gasket.
If you're sourcing your engine from the salvage yard, it is best to take apart and check the cams, and replace timing chain guides. Ours were showing wear on the nylon strips attached to the guides, but otherwise the tensioners were fine. We could have used it as is, but since we were replacing the oil pump might as well just change it out.
Oil Pump, chances are your engine from the junk yard may be in the high 75k and up mileage range, remember this was attached to a navigator, while it may not have seen street abuse like our stangs, it may have had towing abuse, replace the pump with a FRPP Oil Pump. Ford Racing M-6600-D46 Oil Pump High Volume, this pump is used on the Gt500 and the Police motors. can be had for about $80.00 or less shipped to your door from eBay, and remember all Ford Parts now have a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. Make sure when replacingpump you also replace the pick-up screen as it does sit lower in the pan than the base navigator unit.
Oil Pan, either use your old 4.6 pan or try to source a GT500 take off pan, either one will fit better than the Navigator pan. (more to come)
Great thread for mod motor dummies like me, thanks for putting the time into it that is going to prevent me from asking a lot of really dumb questions later on when I get going on my project!!!!! Thanks!
Should be a fun project to work through and to play with when it's all done!!!!
09-03-2015, 07:27 PM
