BlackBetty02GT

ok 10-4 thank you sir you have been awesome with helping and be patient with me on here lol, i am new to forums, and if there is a way I can give you a rating on here as a contributor please let me know and i will do so, i will let you know once i move them around what i come up with, and also what you think about what i was saying about doing the teksid 96-98 block and redoing my heads, then blower sound good?

jwog666

thanks, i am here to help. i think a teksid block, running about 8.5-8.8:1 CR with 14 psi of boost or so should net you approx 500 rwhp if tuned correctly with the correct supporting mods (fuel system, water meth injection etc.) and have very good street manners

BlackBetty02GT

Hey Jwogg ok so I went ahead and pulled all injectors and cleaned them out manually i did notice that 5 gas was a little dirty looking when coming out so after hooking everything back up, and by the way i did disconnect fuel pump and all before doing this i hooked everything back up and 5 code was gone and still had 3 and p0316 but also got p1233 which is fuel pump driver module is disconnected or offline which i assume if from the disconnect of the fuel pump and not having negative terminal unhooked while i did all this, like i did when i did the intake manifold probably why i didnt get that code last time so i used my scanner and cleared all codes to get a start over and good read plus i did move #5 to #6 location, and move #3 to #1 like you said to do to see if it would change location so we will see once the ecu picks up everything again, but just to be sure do you think the 1233 was from not having negative unhooked while doing everything?

jwog666

yes i would say the p1233 is from disconnecting the pump, if the FPDM was offline, the pump would never run. let me know how it goes

BlackBetty02GT

I let the car idle for about 10 mins after clearing the codes and then took it for a drive, and i got flashing light within a mile and i felt some hesatation on the car then drove fine all the way home pulled in the drive way and the flashing cel went away and when i hooked up dam p303 again! I was dam really but no other code, i dont know if the 316 will show back up, but man i am stumped on this one i have changed cop, plug, intake manifold, pulled all injectors and cleaned them, new battery, did a screw driver test and am getting clicking sound and compression test on 3 and 5. This is getting hard to figure out, the only thing i am thinking is maybe a faulty wire connector to either injector or cop plug, o2 sensor, or crankshaft or camshaft sensor, i am confused.

jwog666

pull the spark plug and move it next, then see if the code follows. it is possible to have a bad spark plug, even if they are new

BlackBetty02GT

yeah i have thought about doing that and the cop together and see if it moves just to see if it was a dud, i will do that today and update you when i do thanks. man i am glad you dont charge by the post i would be broke lol.

jwog666

there are alot of knock off coil packs out there, i and most have found that their reliability are lacking. did you use ford OE coils? or aftermarket ones? i know you said that summit sold them to you, but they were actual motorcraft?

BlackBetty02GT

No i went with OEM Motorcraft DG508 from Summit

BlackBetty02GT

Hey Jwogg just another update to the misfire, I have moved injectors, plugs, and COP to different areas along with all the other stuff i have done, and cleared the codes so last night i get the CEL flashing and I noticed it was while i was still in second at around 3500 rpm cruising getting ready to make a pass on a two lane, and then it started flashing and the car was bogging down like it was misfiring and then i got to the gas station it started to clear up but i shut the car off and restarted with a steady CEL and not missing but CEL on, I checked codes and sure enough P0303 and P0305 back again, i have done so many things what could be left now? I notice that it shows up a lot when i am at a higher rpm between 2nd and 3rd gear