Is it worth changing gears in a daily driver with 160,000 miles?
#11
Getting into an unnecessary car payment because you have some extra money for a down payment is probably the stupidest advise you could have gotten on here.
Your best bet would be get an 8.8 and install it. You will have more gear options and spend less than trying to upgrade the 7.5.
Your best bet would be get an 8.8 and install it. You will have more gear options and spend less than trying to upgrade the 7.5.
The smartest advice was the guy above who suggested that he apply the funds to the principal balance of his mortgage. But this is an enthusiast car site, so generally we encourage one another on the best way to **** their money away on their car (or a different one in this case).
OP, the tune up items mentioned above could very well make a noticeable difference in how your car runs.
Like I said earlier though, a 3.8 is a solid commuter but IMO not so great for modding. Maybe somebody here knows better than me on this, but from my observation of seeing 3.8 cars out on the road they don't come across as an engine that takes very well to performance related abuse. I can't tell you the last time I pulled up to one at a light and it was running buttery smooth; every single one of them seems to be making a bit of valve chatter or top end noise which I tend to assume is mostly due to their owner driving it as if it were a V8. Unlike a 4.6, which as long as you take care of it it will last forever and run/sound like new even at 200K+ miles.
If you love your car though, I understand. In that case, look into a full 8.8" rear swap as was suggested. I would think though that at your mileage there might be a fair amount of wearing parts replacement (suspension bushings, shocks, possibly a million other things) that your money might be better spent doing on the car.
#12
Depending on where he lives - as car values can vary depending on that, it is entirely possible that between the anticipated cash flow and the proceeds of selling his current ride that he could find himself sitting in a '99-'04 GT.
The smartest advice was the guy above who suggested that he apply the funds to the principal balance of his mortgage. But this is an enthusiast car site, so generally we encourage one another on the best way to **** their money away on their car (or a different one in this case).
OP, the tune up items mentioned above could very well make a noticeable difference in how your car runs.
Like I said earlier though, a 3.8 is a solid commuter but IMO not so great for modding. Maybe somebody here knows better than me on this, but from my observation of seeing 3.8 cars out on the road they don't come across as an engine that takes very well to performance related abuse. I can't tell you the last time I pulled up to one at a light and it was running buttery smooth; every single one of them seems to be making a bit of valve chatter or top end noise which I tend to assume is mostly due to their owner driving it as if it were a V8. Unlike a 4.6, which as long as you take care of it it will last forever and run/sound like new even at 200K+ miles.
If you love your car though, I understand. In that case, look into a full 8.8" rear swap as was suggested. I would think though that at your mileage there might be a fair amount of wearing parts replacement (suspension bushings, shocks, possibly a million other things) that your money might be better spent doing on the car.
The smartest advice was the guy above who suggested that he apply the funds to the principal balance of his mortgage. But this is an enthusiast car site, so generally we encourage one another on the best way to **** their money away on their car (or a different one in this case).
OP, the tune up items mentioned above could very well make a noticeable difference in how your car runs.
Like I said earlier though, a 3.8 is a solid commuter but IMO not so great for modding. Maybe somebody here knows better than me on this, but from my observation of seeing 3.8 cars out on the road they don't come across as an engine that takes very well to performance related abuse. I can't tell you the last time I pulled up to one at a light and it was running buttery smooth; every single one of them seems to be making a bit of valve chatter or top end noise which I tend to assume is mostly due to their owner driving it as if it were a V8. Unlike a 4.6, which as long as you take care of it it will last forever and run/sound like new even at 200K+ miles.
If you love your car though, I understand. In that case, look into a full 8.8" rear swap as was suggested. I would think though that at your mileage there might be a fair amount of wearing parts replacement (suspension bushings, shocks, possibly a million other things) that your money might be better spent doing on the car.
#14
No I'm not saying that at all. I'm just playing devils advocate. Adding traction adds stress and on the higher mileage cars something is more likely to break. I'd just keep in mind before you start don't blow all your 1k budget on the rear-end itself because you could end up needing new parts somewhere else and they add up quick. I've got an 84 f150 dead in my driveway due to an upgraded rear-end that ultimately destroyed the weak bearings in my trans. It can happen
#15
No I'm not saying that at all. I'm just playing devils advocate. Adding traction adds stress and on the higher mileage cars something is more likely to break. I'd just keep in mind before you start don't blow all your 1k budget on the rear-end itself because you could end up needing new parts somewhere else and they add up quick. I've got an 84 f150 dead in my driveway due to an upgraded rear-end that ultimately destroyed the weak bearings in my trans. It can happen
#16
well it started with bad u joints which were replaced. Pinion angle was fine within spec so I doubt it was that just an old truck. The extra stiffness plus the LSD just destroyed my tailshaft it runs it just moves so much that it pours trans fluid out. No biggie the goal was to build my own lightning of sorts so it will get replaced soon anyways. The major issie I'm trying to point out is seemingly small projects can quickly turn into major money. And if he's only got a grand to spend it's wise to check all that stuff before investing money into a car that may become a paperweight once your done. I agree jumping into debt is a dumb idea. But if it runs well now leave it alone and keep it as a daily. If he wants to go faster as stated then a better investment would be newer lower mileage but that doesn't mean it has to come with a monthly payment.
#17
And I agree once you change that rear-end you open a can of worms. Your going to put more strain on u-joints and bushings and suspension components any time you add new parts you run that risk which could easily get you to a point of spending way more than the cost of a newer car.
#18
well it started with bad u joints which were replaced. Pinion angle was fine within spec so I doubt it was that just an old truck. The extra stiffness plus the LSD just destroyed my tailshaft it runs it just moves so much that it pours trans fluid out. No biggie the goal was to build my own lightning of sorts so it will get replaced soon anyways. The major issie I'm trying to point out is seemingly small projects can quickly turn into major money. And if he's only got a grand to spend it's wise to check all that stuff before investing money into a car that may become a paperweight once your done. I agree jumping into debt is a dumb idea. But if it runs well now leave it alone and keep it as a daily. If he wants to go faster as stated then a better investment would be newer lower mileage but that doesn't mean it has to come with a monthly payment.
#19
IMO, if the gears are noisy and the noise is getting to you, then yes consider a 7.5 rebuild or the 8.8 upgrade. Find a good shop that can guarantee no whine.
But at 160k, if the gears are quiet, then I would put the money towards the principle payment. Every time you make a principle payment you'll see that you're paying less and less in interest on your regular monthly payments. Knocking down that interest is a beautiful thing.
But at 160k, if the gears are quiet, then I would put the money towards the principle payment. Every time you make a principle payment you'll see that you're paying less and less in interest on your regular monthly payments. Knocking down that interest is a beautiful thing.
#20
Hookers and blow .....
Gears are going to run you more then a grand by the time it's all said and done, start with a tune up or sell your car privately and you can pick up sub 100k 99-04 GTs for ~5k now
I'm not a fan of swapping in someone else's 8.8 headache unless your going to make over 400 hp the 7.5 will be fine as long as your not running drag radials or doing constant burnouts, plus you will know all the parts are new, gears, your choice of lsd, berings, and you need a tuner to correct the speedo on an 02. And if you haven't all ready I would recommend atleast a set of GT take off duals if your going to spend the money on all that to let it breathe a little better
Gears are going to run you more then a grand by the time it's all said and done, start with a tune up or sell your car privately and you can pick up sub 100k 99-04 GTs for ~5k now
I'm not a fan of swapping in someone else's 8.8 headache unless your going to make over 400 hp the 7.5 will be fine as long as your not running drag radials or doing constant burnouts, plus you will know all the parts are new, gears, your choice of lsd, berings, and you need a tuner to correct the speedo on an 02. And if you haven't all ready I would recommend atleast a set of GT take off duals if your going to spend the money on all that to let it breathe a little better
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