4.6L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.
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Hope this can be useful as many of our customers are always asking "what can I do makemy GT a 12 sec daily?"...well here's a quick list with some pricing and a vid to back it up. Let us know if you have similar set ups and feel free to post your pics/vids with mods list. thanks!
99 GT $6500
Cold Air intake $159
75mm Upper & TB $289
Upper/Lower control arms $209 (UPR)
Lakewood 90/10 or 70/30's $198/pr
Strange 10 way rear shocks $140/pr
Off road H or X $159
Cat Back $300
Stage II Cams $625
Springs for Cams $229
SCT Tune with chip or XCal2 $379
Weld Rims/Tires $800 - used
All totaled it's a tip over $10k including the car. (If you can do the install or have some freinds with tools) Now sell some of the stuff coming off the car like the old wheels/tires and you can have more to work with. Not bad, but a 12 sec daily for 10k is not out of reach. Now if you already have the car, simply add the rest over time and you too can have some fun!
runnin 12.4's all day damn that is cheaper to do it than an Ls1 would be to get the same #'s. are u sure thats all it needed to hit 12.4
That's it as surprising as it seems. Most people overlook the cams and suspension, but that is what makes these 2v's fly. This one had 99k miles on the clock as was a true daily driver flogged every chance it got. We installed a new Spec Stage I clutch ($209) and a pair of Long Tubes ($335) and it ran 12.05 @ 113.6 at Baytown.
You can see the clutch starting to slip in the vid just before the launch. It was creeping pretty bad which forced me to be easy on the 1-2 shift, then it was "drive it like it's stolen" for the stripe! I could have netted a couple more tenths just driving straight, but this was my first trip down the track with this car and I was a bit rusty at the wheel.
Glad you guys enjoyed it. I had a blast!
Texas Hot Rods
Dude, that's awesome, but I can't have a DD with 4.10s, stupid auto.[:@]
Stop being such a burn-out queen and you can!
Is there any reason why 4.30's weren't used?
Is this the same car I saw featured in a magazine that had an Auto? Looks awful familiar and so does the mod list. Very nice
This was featured in MM&FF for the N/A 2v GT shoot out which is where the vid came from. It is a 5 speed car and is still kicking aroung FL as of now. Owner couldn't make the shootout and we needed one more car along with our 00 GT that ran so we took this one and I got to drive !! It was the only car there without long tubes, so you can bank that long tubes are the route to go.
As for 4.30's, it would have helped a ton, but we didn't have time to swap them before the trip ( 3 days from El Paso to New Jersey Atco Track). All in all, it was a great experience and opened alot of eyes to the fact that 2v's can run on a budget as there were no race cars allowed. Had to have interior, and be a street car for the shootout.
Were the cam's new? What kind were they? How much would it cost to have them installed at a shop?
EDIT: Have you guys had it dyno'd, if so, you have any numbers or videos or anything?
We sell cams new for $625 to the forum junkies. Usually $650 in our shop, but we always try to help. Installation would be $450 from us, you'll also need the head change kit $189 with all the gaskets/seals you will use. Cams will also require a tune which is why I listed the SCT ($379), which will net 260-280 rwhp with the mods listed from what we've tested.
It sure makes these GT's alot of fun when you see a vette or LS1 looking for an easy kill !
Texas Hot Rods
Texas Hot Rods
Cams are new or at least were when they were installed. We dyno'd this one at 278 rwhp if I recall correctly. Like I said, it had 99k on the clock but still ripped. The CAI was a pieced together BBK kit. This car was built using as many deals on parts as you could hence the budget build part. I listed most of the parts in the list as new costs, but one could definitely save a few bucks if you shopped around or just collected parts and then installed them as you had them.
Even if you factor in the new stuff, it stills keep the cost down and makes it affordable for most daily drivers without going broke on a college or high school type budget. These cars are pretty neat with a little knowledge and some patience to putting the puzzle together.
Texas Hot Rods
could you run 12s with less? i just ordered tokico 5 way adjustanbe shocks ans struts and am getting lower controle arms. say i got a set of slicks...could i run like a 13.0?
Depending on your elevation, you could get into the 12's with slicks, the inductions items (TB, CAI, Plenum), gears, and a really good driver. The suspension will help a ton on the 60 ft's, but slicks will stick the stock to mild bolt on HP pretty easily. The shocks/struts & rear control arms will make a huge difference in the launch making for consistant runs and 60 fts. Look at the times on this one and you can see how this would be a killer bracket car. It runs the number every pass!
The cams are worth an easy 35 rwhp and most we tested usually make more hence the low to mid 12's in the vid for this one. This was also run at Atco (MMFF test track in NJ)and in Baytown (Houston, TX), so there wouldn't be much better air or track conditions as both are as close to sea level as it gets with great surfaces.
All in all to answer your question, shed as much dead weight as you can (ie: spare, jack, rear seat, passenger seat, stereo boxes, etc and witha slick and a few bolt ons you could hit the 12's. If you practice and pay attention to what you do that works, like shift points for instance or tire pressures, you can widdle the clocks down and get your timeslip.
Here are a couple more FREE mods you can do to get the most from your combo:
1) Air the front tires up, especially skinnies (just a bit over max pressure and don't forget to drop them for the ride home!)
2) Pull the passenger front headlight (2 clips and unplug the lights)
3) On slicks or sticky tires, do your burn out in 2nd after you roll through the water and keep the RPM's up around 5500. Then after they smoke, roll out and stage. NO DRY HOPS or clutch dumps before you launch. This will only take the bite out of the tires and heat up your clutch. This is the most common mistake you will see at the track where inexperienced drivers try to test the "stick" of the track. BAD IDEA, just do the burn out, stage the car, then do your thing!
4) Shed some weight, dump the spare, jack, iron, stereo boxes, back seats, and passenger seat. You can take this stuff out for the track,then stick it back in for the ride home. Less weight means quicker ET with the SAME HP.
5) Monitor your shift points and try different RPM's to see what your combo likes the best. Just because the redline is 6k, it doesn't mean that's were you shift. (I had a coupe that would vary from 12.20's 11.80's if I shifted it at different RPM's. It had a weak set of heads and small cam so it was done at 5500 and ran the best times shifting early. If I ran it to 6k on the shifts it would lose 3-4 tenths and a few MPH.)
6) Check your air filter and make sure it's clean.
There are probably a ton more items I could list, but this is the basics to make sure you get the most out of your track sessions. Good Luck
Texas Hot Rods
Texas Hot Rods
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