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how to REALLY adjust your clutch (w/out an adjuster!)
05-24-2008, 11:01 AM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: smokelahoma city, ok
Posts: 1,099
how to REALLY adjust your clutch (w/out an adjuster!)
i just posted the info over on the tech side....it actually works!!
wish i would have known this years ago when i first got my gt!! definately never seen these instructions on this site before...
just wanted to let you guys know, for those that rarely visit 4.6 tech, there is some USEFUL info over there...
edit: and NO it isnt lifting up on the pedal lol and it takes all of 2 minutes to do!
wish i would have known this years ago when i first got my gt!! definately never seen these instructions on this site before...
just wanted to let you guys know, for those that rarely visit 4.6 tech, there is some USEFUL info over there...
edit: and NO it isnt lifting up on the pedal lol and it takes all of 2 minutes to do!
05-24-2008, 11:11 AM
#4
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: smokelahoma city, ok
Posts: 1,099
RE: how to REALLY adjust your clutch (w/out an adjuster!)
i did not write the fallowing. i just cut n pasted it. i wish i would have found this a couple of years ago!!!
how to adjust your clutch without an adjuster (and no not by lifting the pedal)....this REALLY adjusts it/works!!
This article will hopefully explain how to easily adjust the stock clutch in your Mustang. Many people think that all they can do is use the self-adjust mechanism as described in the owner’s manual and then live with that, or else buy an aftermarket adjustable clutch cable or some other device. Well, that is not exactly true, since the stock clutch setup is completely adjustable so the clutch can be made to release or engage at any point in the pedal travel. Reasons you might want to adjust the clutch: [*] Clutch is getting worn out[*] Clutch pedal has a "dead" or "mushy" feeling to the first part of the travel[*] Difficulty shifting (shifter doesn’t move freely, or gears clash, etc)[*] Just a preference to set the clutch engagement point where you want it Obviously each of these reasons can be due to other problems, but since this is a "no cost" modification, you might consider trying it first. For safety, I strongly recommend that you spend the time getting to know how the clutch and the adjustment mechanism work, so that you will really understand what you are doing. Also, any clutch adjustment should be performed with the engine turned off, transmission in neutral, and the parking brake firmly set. There are two ways to adjust the clutch, depending on the reason you are adjusting it in the first place. The standard procedure called out in your owner’s manual is to pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat. Sometimes this is referred to as "lifting" the clutch pedal since it is usually done with the toe of your shoe while you sit in the seat. This activates the self-adjusting mechanism and is generally fine for most people and is the procedure to use as the clutch wears normally. The second method is the one most performance enthusiasts would probably want to consider, as it allows the clutch to be adjusted so it releases/engages wherever you desire for your particular driving style. This is one of those jobs that can literally be a pain in the neck if you really want to understand how the stock clutch adjustment mechanism works, since you have to look up under the dash from the throttle pedal’s point of view. But, the actual adjustment can easily be done kneeling next to the car and reaching under the dash once you know the method, this is especially good if you are like me and don't fit under the dash very well. Now, it is important to understand the basics. Viewed from the driver’s seat, the brake pedal is between the clutch pedal and the throttle pedal. However, looking under the hood you will notice that the clutch cable goes through the "firewall" between the brake booster and the throttle cable.
This picture is taken from the radio’s point of view, looking toward the driver’s side of the car. The dash is removed in this photo along with all of the interior trim that would normally be visible from this angle. It shows the steering shaft (goldish colored), clutch and brake pedals (black - hanging down in the center of the picture). So to the right of the picture is the "firewall" (forward in the car) and to the left would be the driver’s seat. Although the picture does not show the complete quadrant assembly, studying it should help you understand the mechanism. (I found this in the "random pictures from the past" pile in a drawer and hopefully it is good enough, as I really don’t feel like taking the dash apart to get a better picture for this article. If someone has a better picture, feel free to submit it to the Corral and it will be added.) The clutch pedal is solidly connected to the shaft that comes through the top center of the picture. This shaft is also solidly connected to the steel arm that extends forward and holds the small ratchet mechanism seen in the upper right of the picture (with a clip holding the ratchet to a small shaft on the
steel arm). Ignore everything else for a moment and just think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The pedal moves to the right in this picture, causing the shaft in the top of the picture to rotate counterclockwise, causing the small ratchet mechanism assembly to rotate upward. Once you understand that, then the rest will be easier to follow. Now would be a good time to define exactly what this "quadrant" thing is that people talk about. A quadrant is just ¼ of a circle. It is the light colored part of this clutch ratchet mechanism that is in the top center of this picture (actually appears to be more like 1/3 of a circle). It has little teeth on its perimeter and is held onto the clutch pedal shaft by the clip that is visible. However, the quadrant is floating on the shaft, as it is not splined to the shaft and does not directly have to rotate with the shaft (this is a very important part of understanding how the mechanism works). The clutch cable comes through the "firewall" and attaches to the top of the quadrant, in much the same way that the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body. (Unfortunately this section of the quadrant is out of view above the picture.) Again, think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The small ratchet mechanism assembly on the right rotates upward. This small ratchet mechanism has teeth that are meshed with the quadrant’s teeth, causing the quadrant to rotate counterclockwise, pulling the clutch cable. If you have difficulty visualizing all of the motion from the picture and this description, then it may be worthwhile at this point to look at it in your car and push the pedal by hand so you can watch what happens. Now, let’s look at the two actual adjustment methods. The first method is the one described in the owner’s manual. If you pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat, you will be rotating the small ratchet mechanism assembly downward. Looking at the picture, you’ll notice that the small ratchet mechanism will push against a metal "tab", causing the teeth of the small ratchet mechanism to disengage from the teeth of the quadrant. This causes the clutch to self adjust into the normal location. Many people (including me) find that this makes the clutch pedal position annoyingly close to the floor when the clutch engages/disangages. [font="arial,helvetica"][size="-1"]The second method is the one you are most interested in and you can probably already see what to do if you understand how the whole ratchet/quadrant thing works.[/size
how to adjust your clutch without an adjuster (and no not by lifting the pedal)....this REALLY adjusts it/works!!
This article will hopefully explain how to easily adjust the stock clutch in your Mustang. Many people think that all they can do is use the self-adjust mechanism as described in the owner’s manual and then live with that, or else buy an aftermarket adjustable clutch cable or some other device. Well, that is not exactly true, since the stock clutch setup is completely adjustable so the clutch can be made to release or engage at any point in the pedal travel. Reasons you might want to adjust the clutch: [*] Clutch is getting worn out[*] Clutch pedal has a "dead" or "mushy" feeling to the first part of the travel[*] Difficulty shifting (shifter doesn’t move freely, or gears clash, etc)[*] Just a preference to set the clutch engagement point where you want it Obviously each of these reasons can be due to other problems, but since this is a "no cost" modification, you might consider trying it first. For safety, I strongly recommend that you spend the time getting to know how the clutch and the adjustment mechanism work, so that you will really understand what you are doing. Also, any clutch adjustment should be performed with the engine turned off, transmission in neutral, and the parking brake firmly set. There are two ways to adjust the clutch, depending on the reason you are adjusting it in the first place. The standard procedure called out in your owner’s manual is to pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat. Sometimes this is referred to as "lifting" the clutch pedal since it is usually done with the toe of your shoe while you sit in the seat. This activates the self-adjusting mechanism and is generally fine for most people and is the procedure to use as the clutch wears normally. The second method is the one most performance enthusiasts would probably want to consider, as it allows the clutch to be adjusted so it releases/engages wherever you desire for your particular driving style. This is one of those jobs that can literally be a pain in the neck if you really want to understand how the stock clutch adjustment mechanism works, since you have to look up under the dash from the throttle pedal’s point of view. But, the actual adjustment can easily be done kneeling next to the car and reaching under the dash once you know the method, this is especially good if you are like me and don't fit under the dash very well. Now, it is important to understand the basics. Viewed from the driver’s seat, the brake pedal is between the clutch pedal and the throttle pedal. However, looking under the hood you will notice that the clutch cable goes through the "firewall" between the brake booster and the throttle cable.
This picture is taken from the radio’s point of view, looking toward the driver’s side of the car. The dash is removed in this photo along with all of the interior trim that would normally be visible from this angle. It shows the steering shaft (goldish colored), clutch and brake pedals (black - hanging down in the center of the picture). So to the right of the picture is the "firewall" (forward in the car) and to the left would be the driver’s seat. Although the picture does not show the complete quadrant assembly, studying it should help you understand the mechanism. (I found this in the "random pictures from the past" pile in a drawer and hopefully it is good enough, as I really don’t feel like taking the dash apart to get a better picture for this article. If someone has a better picture, feel free to submit it to the Corral and it will be added.) The clutch pedal is solidly connected to the shaft that comes through the top center of the picture. This shaft is also solidly connected to the steel arm that extends forward and holds the small ratchet mechanism seen in the upper right of the picture (with a clip holding the ratchet to a small shaft on the
steel arm). Ignore everything else for a moment and just think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The pedal moves to the right in this picture, causing the shaft in the top of the picture to rotate counterclockwise, causing the small ratchet mechanism assembly to rotate upward. Once you understand that, then the rest will be easier to follow. Now would be a good time to define exactly what this "quadrant" thing is that people talk about. A quadrant is just ¼ of a circle. It is the light colored part of this clutch ratchet mechanism that is in the top center of this picture (actually appears to be more like 1/3 of a circle). It has little teeth on its perimeter and is held onto the clutch pedal shaft by the clip that is visible. However, the quadrant is floating on the shaft, as it is not splined to the shaft and does not directly have to rotate with the shaft (this is a very important part of understanding how the mechanism works). The clutch cable comes through the "firewall" and attaches to the top of the quadrant, in much the same way that the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body. (Unfortunately this section of the quadrant is out of view above the picture.) Again, think about what happens when you push the clutch pedal. The small ratchet mechanism assembly on the right rotates upward. This small ratchet mechanism has teeth that are meshed with the quadrant’s teeth, causing the quadrant to rotate counterclockwise, pulling the clutch cable. If you have difficulty visualizing all of the motion from the picture and this description, then it may be worthwhile at this point to look at it in your car and push the pedal by hand so you can watch what happens. Now, let’s look at the two actual adjustment methods. The first method is the one described in the owner’s manual. If you pull the clutch pedal back toward the driver’s seat, you will be rotating the small ratchet mechanism assembly downward. Looking at the picture, you’ll notice that the small ratchet mechanism will push against a metal "tab", causing the teeth of the small ratchet mechanism to disengage from the teeth of the quadrant. This causes the clutch to self adjust into the normal location. Many people (including me) find that this makes the clutch pedal position annoyingly close to the floor when the clutch engages/disangages. [font="arial,helvetica"][size="-1"]The second method is the one you are most interested in and you can probably already see what to do if you understand how the whole ratchet/quadrant thing works.[/size
05-24-2008, 11:16 AM
#6
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: smokelahoma city, ok
Posts: 1,099
RE: how to REALLY adjust your clutch (w/out an adjuster!)
i did mine 2 "clicks"....and for me its perfect....the clutch starts releasing more towards the middle of the pedal, instead at the very end/floor!
02-24-2010, 11:49 AM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: newfoundland
Posts: 2
humphhh...im havin troubles with my clutch ever since i redone my motor, i tryed that whole pullin back thing and it didnt budge, no click, no nothing...maybe this was already done with the previous owner but i unno...what was the other method MoKo??? ur assistance is greatly appreciated from a confused newfie
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