MMR block this summer?
01-27-2009, 10:29 PM
#11
Im not telling you to do bolt ons instead of the blower. Im saying do them in conjunction with the blower. Im not assuming anything. And does this kit come with everything for the fuel system that youre gonna need and an upgraded maf??? Im just trying to make sure all the bases are addressed to make sure you dont let anything go unaddressed.
01-27-2009, 11:01 PM
#12
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Im not telling you to do bolt ons instead of the blower. Im saying do them in conjunction with the blower. Im not assuming anything. And does this kit come with everything for the fuel system that youre gonna need and an upgraded maf??? Im just trying to make sure all the bases are addressed to make sure you dont let anything go unaddressed.
01-28-2009, 12:07 PM
#13
K man. Good luck with the blower. Im sure you will be over your power goal of 400 crank hp. And to be safe, i would do a built motor in conjunction with your blower if you can. Just for added safety and in case you want to run more power later you can just upgrade the small stuff that you need and throw on a smaller pulley.
01-28-2009, 12:26 PM
#14
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K man. Good luck with the blower. Im sure you will be over your power goal of 400 crank hp. And to be safe, i would do a built motor in conjunction with your blower if you can. Just for added safety and in case you want to run more power later you can just upgrade the small stuff that you need and throw on a smaller pulley.
01-28-2009, 02:22 PM
#16
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Figured I would throw some info on this thread after reading everything posted here. TWS, if you want 400rwhp, your stock block is fine, like a few other people said the rods, and pistons are your weak link, but will hold up at 400rwhp fine as long as the tune is spot on and you maintain your kit, ie change the oil, plus dont rev over 6k. I guess your going with the vortech kit since your spending 2k. If you have the extra money why not get the mongoose kit? A lot of people are happy with it, personally I have procharger, 3 row IC, 42lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, PMAS maf, and made right at 365rwhp on a 95 degree day. Mike (tuner, installer) said I would easily make 375rwhp on a nicer day. Motor was stock. Since then I have added a 78mm throttle body, but the car hasnt been on the dyno since. I am very happy with my s/c, but as I have said many times, if I had it to do over again. I would have bought a forged short block and sprayed like a 200 shot on it till I saved up again. But its done and over with. At the time I had a nitrous kit so it would have been easier for me to switch to that, but I wanted the power all the time. The only problem I have now is traction. Suspension mods are a must with a blower if your going to take it to the track. Or at least a DR or slicks. I know you didnt want nitrous just thought I would add what I would have done back then, its been 2 years since my s/c install. The motor can take the power, especially with a centri. The motor only see's the max boost at high rpm. If you daily drive and keep it under 3k, it feels like a stock car, until you mash the go pedal, then its amazing how hard the car pulls especially with gears.
01-28-2009, 03:57 PM
#17
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Figured I would throw some info on this thread after reading everything posted here. TWS, if you want 400rwhp, your stock block is fine, like a few other people said the rods, and pistons are your weak link, but will hold up at 400rwhp fine as long as the tune is spot on and you maintain your kit, ie change the oil, plus dont rev over 6k. I guess your going with the vortech kit since your spending 2k. If you have the extra money why not get the mongoose kit? A lot of people are happy with it, personally I have procharger, 3 row IC, 42lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, PMAS maf, and made right at 365rwhp on a 95 degree day. Mike (tuner, installer) said I would easily make 375rwhp on a nicer day. Motor was stock. Since then I have added a 78mm throttle body, but the car hasnt been on the dyno since. I am very happy with my s/c, but as I have said many times, if I had it to do over again. I would have bought a forged short block and sprayed like a 200 shot on it till I saved up again. But its done and over with. At the time I had a nitrous kit so it would have been easier for me to switch to that, but I wanted the power all the time. The only problem I have now is traction. Suspension mods are a must with a blower if your going to take it to the track. Or at least a DR or slicks. I know you didnt want nitrous just thought I would add what I would have done back then, its been 2 years since my s/c install. The motor can take the power, especially with a centri. The motor only see's the max boost at high rpm. If you daily drive and keep it under 3k, it feels like a stock car, until you mash the go pedal, then its amazing how hard the car pulls especially with gears.
01-28-2009, 03:59 PM
#18
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It must be used...one of the things I would never ever buy used. My kit was over 4 big ones. Yea sorry over looked that in your first post, but seen you were spending 2k and figured you were building your on kit. Now the only thing I can think is that your buying a used kit. I hope everything works out for you. If you are buying a used kit I would for sure go the forged block route instead.
Last edited by dennis_112; 01-28-2009 at 04:04 PM.
01-28-2009, 04:05 PM
#19
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nope its brand new....lol....of course its used. I know the guy and its like new. And I am buying it used because I dont have $4k to plop down on a new one that is the same thing just more money.