School me on suspension..
#11
#13
Heres my list
Chrome Moly or QA1 k member kit NO!
Maximum Rear Coil Over kitReasoning for the rears only?
UPR Radius Rod Upper Control Arm and Spherical Bushing Kit Re-Read above posts
Chrome Moly LCANO!
CE 3 way shocks Is this the same as a quad shock (never heard of it)
Not sure what struts yet
4 bolt CC platesMM Plates
Chrome Moly or QA1 k member kit NO!
Maximum Rear Coil Over kitReasoning for the rears only?
UPR Radius Rod Upper Control Arm and Spherical Bushing Kit Re-Read above posts
Chrome Moly LCANO!
CE 3 way shocks Is this the same as a quad shock (never heard of it)
Not sure what struts yet
4 bolt CC platesMM Plates
Either way, it seems like a bit of the info posted wasn't read so, your money, spend it as you wish. Last bit of advice, do a little more research into the construct of the parts and the reason they are made and you will find reasons not to buy some of those parts on your list. By research, I mean to actually google chrome moly and see what it is, go read about bind studies done on the stock 4 link and why any aftermarket UCA with stiffer bushings are a bad idea and not go by what is posted on the sellers site. Millions of people get taken for a fool by turbonators because they only go by what the seller sells/tells them.
#14
2) Making a car good at one thing and not at another is great if its a dedicated race car, but the OP asked for a DD setup as well.
Either way, I'm out before I get dragged into an argument that wont go anywhere, it's happend too many times in the past.
Same advice as before you can go the cheap/quick/easy way and spend money on replacing things that break or do things right the first time and actually research/spend money where it needs to be spent and have confidence that your car will hold up.
#15
Ok.. Chrome-Moly is very light weight, it weighs as little as it does due to the brittle nature of its construct. It works on UPR's cars because they are mainly straight line builds but if you take that and try to put it through the stresses of a spirited drive through some twisties, you could be in for a bit of fun.
Either way, it seems like a bit of the info posted wasn't read so, your money, spend it as you wish. Last bit of advice, do a little more research into the construct of the parts and the reason they are made and you will find reasons not to buy some of those parts on your list. By research, I mean to actually google chrome moly and see what it is, go read about bind studies done on the stock 4 link and why any aftermarket UCA with stiffer bushings are a bad idea and not go by what is posted on the sellers site. Millions of people get taken for a fool by turbonators because they only go by what the seller sells/tells them.
Either way, it seems like a bit of the info posted wasn't read so, your money, spend it as you wish. Last bit of advice, do a little more research into the construct of the parts and the reason they are made and you will find reasons not to buy some of those parts on your list. By research, I mean to actually google chrome moly and see what it is, go read about bind studies done on the stock 4 link and why any aftermarket UCA with stiffer bushings are a bad idea and not go by what is posted on the sellers site. Millions of people get taken for a fool by turbonators because they only go by what the seller sells/tells them.
and Dime, I know we can do it for cheap but I also want to do it right. Did you you use rubber bushing when you did your uppers?
#16
The front coil overs are in the K member kit. Than Ill go with the regular QA1 k member kit if chrome moly is really that bad. THe QA1 kit is cheaper anyway. CE is Competition Engineering..never heard of it? I appreciate your advice...
and Dime, I know we can do it for cheap but I also want to do it right. Did you you use rubber bushing when you did your uppers?
and Dime, I know we can do it for cheap but I also want to do it right. Did you you use rubber bushing when you did your uppers?
He used the bushings that come with the control arms (poly)
And by cheap, it isnt wrong. Aereon is telling you go buy from 2 of the most expensive places, when you dont need to spend 100$s of dollars extra for the name. Summit, UPR, etc... are just as good for a better price. Coil overs on the front is a good idea, but we are talkin about rear suspension at the moment werent we?
#17
i have adjustable solid upper control arms with urethane bushings on the diff side (would like to get some solids from upr there 2). completely solid lowers with drop brackets (like a custom made lakewood traction bar). i have no problem ripping torque boxes out, thats why i installed the battle boxes.
#18
If you want to do it right and for the best cost buy:
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
#19
He used the bushings that come with the control arms (poly)
And by cheap, it isnt wrong. Aereon is telling you go buy from 2 of the most expensive places, when you dont need to spend 100$s of dollars extra for the name. Summit, UPR, etc... are just as good for a better price. Coil overs on the front is a good idea, but we are talkin about rear suspension at the moment werent we?
And by cheap, it isnt wrong. Aereon is telling you go buy from 2 of the most expensive places, when you dont need to spend 100$s of dollars extra for the name. Summit, UPR, etc... are just as good for a better price. Coil overs on the front is a good idea, but we are talkin about rear suspension at the moment werent we?
As for the UCA's, go take a look at how they are angled and think about what happends as the rear axle acts as it goes over bumps/turns/squats. It doesn't take a college diploma to tell ya that theres gonna need to be some give in the UCA's to allow for the axles movements. Anyways forget everything I've posted as they go against the status quo of catalog shoppers, good luck man, have fun and last bit of advice is to tighten that nut behind the wheel as well as you can and you'll be fine. If you do find anything I've said at any bit interesting then I suggest you do your own research as it is never wise to go about listening to what is posted on any forum without a grain of salt.
Last link I'll throw up in hopes you'll read and take something away from it.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
Last edited by Aereon; 02-01-2009 at 10:19 AM.
#20
Dude Im not arguing with you, You took my post the wrong way. I was simply telling the OP how he doesnt have to spend a ton of money to be able to hook up.. It w/e, I was up way too late last night anyway