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OMFG how could this happen?!

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Old 04-25-2009, 10:57 PM
  #51  
JJ03MustangGT
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it doesnt look as bad as i thought it would, have you tried clay bay and wax to cover it up more? might help a lil
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:03 PM
  #52  
01MGGT
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Is it safe to even wax it yet? I used some Mg scratch remover and it helped alot. I may break out my clay bar to see if it will pull up some of the paint at the line. Turned out way better than I thought. Keep any ideas coming. As far as the fishing line I did that lol. Like I said..the adhesive didn't rip the paint off...the paint fixed itself to the thin strip of metal on the backing of the molding that helps it keep it's shape. If all else fails I could always replace the adhesive and stick the ugly *** things back on lmao
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:41 AM
  #53  
califas_1987
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I would of took a different aproach to fixing it. I would have used touch up paint on a brush and applied thin coats until it fills up to the same level of the original paint, leaving drying/curing time in betwean coats, and then once the paint layers are even with the original paint, wet sand with the highest grit you can find to blend in, then polish and wax. You would still be able to see it, but only from very up close.

At this point, I would look to be a little creative with a stripe graphic that could cover or distract from the line that is left on there now.
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:44 AM
  #54  
01MGGT
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Originally Posted by califas_1987
I would of took a different aproach to fixing it. I would have used touch up paint on a brush and applied thin coats until it fills up to the same level of the original paint, leaving drying/curing time in betwean coats, and then once the paint layers are even with the original paint, wet sand with the highest grit you can find to blend in, then polish and wax. You would still be able to see it, but only from very up close.

At this point, I would look to be a little creative with a stripe graphic that could cover or distract from the line that is left on there now.
I tried that initially. Problem was, the entire area where the molding was is a different shade than the rest of the door because it has been on for so long. I'll just fill in the entire indented scoop are of the door with a matte black overlay lmfao
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:23 AM
  #55  
72MachOne99GT
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bagh, who cares...

just leave it like that until you have some cash laying around for paint..

after all, you could get hit by a car door now,, and it'll be a sign that you were supposed to wait to get it painted....then everything will be fine..

or,, you could get it repainted, and then get hit by a car door, but i like to be optimistic!
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Old 04-26-2009, 08:11 PM
  #56  
califas_1987
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If it gets to the point were you end up painting your doors, also look into how much more you would need to just go ahead an do a two tone paint job on your car... I figure the bigest prep work is the top half of the car were you would have to deal with seals etc. The bottom of the car should be pretty easy prep work. Just somethingto consider.
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Old 04-26-2009, 09:20 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ashtondiff
ive seen people use fishing line to "floss" between badges and the car to get them off then use some sort of bug and tar remover to get the rest of the adhesive off. same concept for that thing on your door. im SO glad mine didnt come with those.
I don't mind them that much. At least, not enough to risk ruining my paint over. I don't think they are that noticeable.
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