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+1 a stock big block can handle a 200 shot all day long. The only thing is that the stock BBF is kind of a dog until you squeeze on it.
ive got d3 heads with a super cobra jet port job, 520 lift cam, weiand stealth scj intake, hooker LT's, 750 holley *going to try and find an 850 before i get it running*....its not gonna be the fastest thing on the streets...but low-mid 12s on motor with my stock suspension, should be way more than attainable...goal is mid 11s on spray....then once i get my 9" and my trans built, ill do some suspension and aim for 10s on the 200 shot, then ill start building the 14.5:1 600" aluminum headed motor and go for a 300shot and 9s
people just always want to talk **** when they really have no clue about whats going on....different = bad
the motor going into my car has 30k miles, and im not about to dump a ton of money into it...the motor going in is something cheap i threw together until the car is running, and will handle my power level just fine...once the car is mobile, im building a 9", a good c4 or c6, and then ill work on a better motor (i have a 600" stroker kit picked out)
explain how a rotating assembly with 30k miles that can handle 600+ ft-lbs, is cutting corners? im not building a mod motor, ill be spraying a 200-225 shot on these internals with no intentions of them being damaged
what i meant by not cutting corners, is im not fabbing up junkyard parts to try and make them work how they arent meant to, im not leaving holes all over my engine bay where efi stuff used to be hooked up, im not leaving cut open holes all over my interior where new stuff has been mounted, i wont be slapping gauges on a pillar and leaving my non-functional cluster in the car, engine bay is going to be fiberglasses to smooth it all out where its been welded
just because im not dropping 100k dollars into the car, doesnt mean it cant be done right
but im doing it in stages...why build a motor with so much power it breaks everything else in the car? i threw my engine together for less than $1500 and plan to make atleast 450 at the wheels without the spray....ide rather have the car running and driving so i can enjoy it while im building the rest of it
hell i sent my motor to a machine shop and they just hot tanked it, said it looked so new it didnt need machined...hot tank, hone, and sent it back
holy essay. just giving you a little lip. not trying to talk ****.
I would really think about the 14:5:1, my friend is running 13:1 and hes pissed off because he has to run $8 a gallon gas. He thought he wouldnt mind, but over time it really starts to suck. You don't need to run that kind of compression if your going to squeeze. You can run 10s on motor and 93 easy with a big block. Like you said earlier, and I agree I wouldn't waste my money on a 750 unless you just have one laying around, even the 850 wont do it. But even on 93 w/ say 11 or low 12's CR you will be in bottom 9's on a 300-400 shot of spray. Most people on this forum just dont get it, because they don't know, all see are BS videos on the internet. You're big block and spray will put you in the 9's and probably 8's, you can beat it season after season, extreme reliability and youll never have to touch the internals again (unless you want to). The name of game is cubes and cfm... anyway you get it.
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
ive got d3 heads with a super cobra jet port job, 520 lift cam, weiand stealth scj intake, hooker LT's, 750 holley *going to try and find an 850 before i get it running*....its not gonna be the fastest thing on the streets...but low-mid 12s on motor with my stock suspension, should be way more than attainable...goal is mid 11s on spray....then once i get my 9" and my trans built, ill do some suspension and aim for 10s on the 200 shot, then ill start building the 14.5:1 600" aluminum headed motor and go for a 300shot and 9s
people just always want to talk **** when they really have no clue about whats going on....different = bad
just read the last part, you wont need n20 to run 9's
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
I would really think about the 14:5:1, my friend is running 13:1 and hes pissed off because he has to run $8 a gallon gas. He thought he wouldnt mind, but over time it really starts to suck. You don't need to run that kind of compression if your going to squeeze. You can run 10s on motor and 93 easy with a big block. Like you said earlier, and I agree I wouldn't waste my money on a 750 unless you just have one laying around, even the 850 wont do it. But even on 93 w/ say 11 or low 12's CR you will be in bottom 9's on a 300-400 shot of spray. Most people on this forum just dont get it, because they don't know, all see are BS videos on the internet. You're big block and spray will put you in the 9's and probably 8's, you can beat it season after season, extreme reliability and youll never have to touch the internals again (unless you want to). The name of game is cubes and cfm... anyway you get it.
yea the gas would get kinda nuts, but at that point it would be an all out track car...ill check into it a little more...i also read somewhere that 523" is the biggest legal size for a BBF, so ill have to look into the NHRA rules a bit more and find out whats up with that
i got the 750 for 50 bucks, and im trying to trade it for an 850...for this engine im builidng now an 850 should work...once i start building the next one ill get a dominator...
the engine going in the car now is gonna be running on 87 octane lol, 8.0:1 CR, ouch!
but like ive mentioned before, i only plan to run this engine long enough to build the rest of my car, then its coming out...i paid like 200 bucks for the engine, got the ported heads for free, and had it hot tanked...bought the cam and intake and stuff etc, but once i pull the motor out i have no doubt ill be able to get atleast a grand back for it...so 500 bucks for a few seasons of use seems pretty fair to me (after rings, bearings, seals, hot tank, cam , intake, etc etc...it cost me about $1500 to put it together)
yeah the money is in the valve train... but pushrod/carb n/a/n20 cars soo forgiving... its nice
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
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