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So I put a deposit on a mach 1 yesterday. Bank is processing the paperwork and if all goes well (no reason it shouldn't but knock on wood in case!) I will be driving back to pick it up on Friday. Expect to see a BIG OL MACH 1 THREAD then but for now I have a serious inquiry for you gurus.
The car is in really good shape except it's in desperate need of a brake job. The steering wheel shakes pretty bad under braking so I assume I'm going to need to do something with the front rotors, not just the pads.
QUESTION: I've heard that the machinable surface of modern rotors is very thin and that turning them will cause them to warp very easily. So should I not even bother with turning and just buy new ones?
I want to buy OEM quality/performance rotors UNLESS there is a better alternative that doesn't cost what brembo does. Please give me some good suggestions brands and on vendors that have good prices on them. Remember this is a mach 1 so I don't need calipers, just rotors (and I'll take pad suggestions while you're at it). Thanks guys
JD
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If you have the money, just get some new slotted rotors. Take a road trip down to waco to Latemodel Restoration and pick em up. If you decide to go, pm me and i'll meet you there and then it's hooters for a beer.....or two.
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The difference between turning and buying new rotors is fairly simple. Turning the rotors the first time or two shouldn't cause any trouble, so there is no reason not to. However, depending upon the type of breaks that you currently have it can actually be kind of dumb. For example, I have seen new rotors from Kragen cost almost exactly the same as having the old ones turned. In that kind of scenario, why not just buy the new ones?
When it comes to performance brakes, you can get drilled/slotted rotors which will keep your brakes cooler under heavy breaking conditions. That seems like it would be when turning rotors would become beneficial. The cost of turning rotors has stayed the same as the OEM ones, however the cost of new ones has gone up.
If I were you I would check out Bear brakes and get some cross drilled/slotted rotors. They are sold all over the place, you shouldn't have trouble finding them.
With regards to the brake pads... what ever you do don't go with the full ceramic race pads that they put on like corvettes and stuff. I thought it would be rad so I spent umpteen number of dollars on them... they are supposed to work well at high speeds. And they do, but what they failed to mention is that they only work well at high speeds. I don't start to feel real performance out of them until I am over 100 MPH. Just cruzzin around town or at basic 55 mph freeway speeds, it feels like your pads are wet. You know, like when you just get out of the carwash and attempt to stop the car. It sucks. Make sure you go with street pads, or at the very least a dual purpose pad.
Why dont you get the dealership to replace them for you? They shouldnt sell you a car with bad brakes. If its a private seller have them knock off the cost of new rotors.
just my .02 on that.
if the rotor thickness is within spec turn them, no need to buy new.
Vehicle: 02 Ford Mustang GT and 03 Crown Victoria PI
Location: austin,TX
Posts: 1,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by H0SS302
Why dont you get the dealership to replace them for you? They shouldnt sell you a car with bad brakes. If its a private seller have them knock off the cost of new rotors.
just my .02 on that.
if the rotor thickness is within spec turn them, no need to buy new
yeah that
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Aren't the Brembo rotors like 140 for two of em (stock replacements?)
Baer wants like 240 for two, total crock
oh, an unless you're racing, I think that the slotted will actually wear your pads more
If it's pulling from side to side under breaking, you need to rebuild the front calipers, and grease the crap out of the pistons when you put them back in, they're sticking.
It's not the pads, it's the actual calipers.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdot9
i could go for a nice can of cock rite now actually...
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