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i think my speakers started farting because i had the bass all the way up and my decided to crank the volume knob all the way up when i wasnt looking(i had my subs ghetto wired into the mach460 like you).
also i live in las vegas, and i did all this when i used to live at home in connecticut. i have all kinds of stock parts at my house unless my dad threw it away.
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Ah, that is no good. So if you still have the headunit at your house would you mind donating it to me to see if my system will still work with a "known" working headunit?
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2001 Mineral Grey GT 5spd Coupe
Eibach Pro Kit, Steeda Tri-ax, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler and Grille Delete
*Future Plans*
Ford Racing Gears 3.73 or 4.10, MAC Flowpaths and H-Pipe, Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors, Steeda Caster Camber Plates
*After College*
Engine Build and KB
Okay, so I am still in the middle of this no bass issue. So far here is an update on what has been done. I purchased a supposedly good headunit from a forum member and the problem still exist. I doubt that I would have purchased a headunit with the exact same thing wrong with it as the one I originally had installed. I went back through some diagnostic pin point testing out of the Shop Manuals and found that one of the wires going to the rear amplifier had a resistance less than what the manual specified. This test in the manual suggest if the resistance is less than 10,000 ohms between the harness at the amplifier and ground then the circuit in question needs to be repaired. Does anyone know a good method on how to go about checking that wire and where the wires are routed in rear seat area of the car for the audio system? Also could anyone suggest what the problem with the wiring may be causing the resistance to be less than what the manual's check requires it to be? I think the problem must be something simple, but I just cannot determine how to approach the wiring if this turns out to be the culprit.
By the way, here is a wiring diagram of the Mach 460 system (http://www.bullittarchive.com/7029.htm). The wire that is not passing the Shop Manual's test is wire 172 (LB/RD). Maybe someone can understand this and explain...electricity is not my strongest subject.
__________________
2001 Mineral Grey GT 5spd Coupe
Eibach Pro Kit, Steeda Tri-ax, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler and Grille Delete
*Future Plans*
Ford Racing Gears 3.73 or 4.10, MAC Flowpaths and H-Pipe, Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors, Steeda Caster Camber Plates
*After College*
Engine Build and KB
Problem solved! There was a pinched wire that was grounding out on the body. Quick fix after finding it and now once again rocking down the road to good tunes. Thanks for all the input and suggestions guys.
__________________
2001 Mineral Grey GT 5spd Coupe
Eibach Pro Kit, Steeda Tri-ax, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler and Grille Delete
*Future Plans*
Ford Racing Gears 3.73 or 4.10, MAC Flowpaths and H-Pipe, Steeda Full Length Subframe Connectors, Steeda Caster Camber Plates
*After College*
Engine Build and KB
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