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wt is a good throw out bearing???? just put a new clutch in in jan and t/o bearing came apart last night and it was a federal morgal top of the line from the local parts store ??? any help
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car cant be posted here due to not enought post's
perfosinal products plenum and tb 70mm plenum polished inside and out ,sct dyno tuned,242@5400rpm grenitelli coil packs ,24lbs inj
This will save your bearing from the constant rotation you will find on the stock design. It will also ensure that your cable is not out of adjustment, because you can "feel" its relative position just by using clutch.
This will save your bearing from the constant rotation you will find on the stock design. It will also ensure that your cable is not out of adjustment, because you can "feel" its relative position just by using clutch.
Jazzer
i need to do this asap, i hear that damn noise haunting me in my sleep. my car eats them, new one in 2 days later its done...
^ The bearing is designed to be "constant rotation" as per Ford. This seems like a VERY bad idea to me, hence my hard-drive magnet return.
This magnet is a VERY easy mod for those with even moddest mech. skill.
Jazzer
Can you explain ?
Im interested in knowing what this mod is.
TOB in mine is noisy as well , just turn up the tunes
99 GT here
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if this current t/o bearing ever goes out i might just try your magnet set up. The one i have in now is actually on its second summer (they used to last about 2 months), but i also put less that 4,000 miles on the car last year too.
The beauty of the magnet set-up I have made, is not only removes TO bearing from the pressure plate, but can just jack up your ride and install it
What you need is a bad hard-drive from a computer:
See the 1/2 moon flat silver piece at the bottom LH corner? That is one of two VERY strong magnets (the second one is on the opposite side of the plates). Tear a hard-drive apart and remove these bad boys. Be carefull, they will try to stick together in your hands and pinch the bejesus out of your fingers tips and mangle your skin (the larger capacity hard drives have stronger magnets). Next, get a 3/16" (or so) bolt that will fit through the mounting hole of magnet and drill a hole in the trans bell-housing and put the face of the magnet about 1/8" away from the clutch fork. Use a small piece of pipe as a spacer for inbetween the magnet and the bell housing. You can see the magnet never actually contacts the fork, but rather just "draws" it close until cable slack runs out. This will add a slight "snap release" when you place your foot on the pedal and can feel the pull for only a moment. I thought about using a spring, but this would just add additional tension throughout the clutch travel and just fatigue ones leg.
Just watch the vid a few times and can see how it works.
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T/O bearing
What a POS
