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just wondering ive seen these out for a while now, the concept makes sense, but never heard a review. Anyone used one? or know of someone who has?
Abaco AB-DBX85 85MM
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
im sure it is, im just wondering if it even works, besides at like 100 bucks more why not?
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
It is very nicely engineered and constructed¹, and completely unnecessary on any but the most extreme builds and/or very serious racing applications...
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¹ - the exposed circuit boards did strike my gut as being somewhat of a weak point. There are a lot of exposed SMDs that will be eaten by your engine should they vibrate loose--I suggested they find a way to encapsulate all but the heater and sensor spools.
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-cliff knight- My Mustang
2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned
3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 ft.lb.
Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
there is a guy on another forum im on who had one go bad in less then a year on his car. He now uses a PMAS MAF and said he picked up HP and hasnt had any problems. I myself like the abaco and hope its just a fluke but we will see.
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"I Live My Life A Quarter Mile At A Time" lol j/k
thanks cliffy, really tho i just look at things in the long term, say i need a maf now, but 2 years down the road add a turbo, i just figure if its a quality peice and is as tunable as they say that the extra 100 or so dollars now keeps me from having to spend 400 later. thats all im really looking at, i may have to replace my injectors and maf because i think one of them is the problem im having right now, unfortunutly its not big enough for the mechanic or myself to pin point.
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
I've got a buddy running one on a 750rwhp Turbo 347 in his 98 cobra, he likes it, but I prefer the PMAS. I've been running it for more than a year, very reliable. My car sees a PERFECT 11.5-11.8 A/F ratio under boost.
i think I paid less for the Pmass than you would for an Aabco, and I'm fairly positve it would only make sense on a turbo car, because of the multiple tunes/calibrations feature.
As far as the static in the signal that they claim, idk that it warrants the new MAF
Could be worth it though
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdot9
i could go for a nice can of cock rite now actually...
probebly wont be worth it for me, but im weird lol.
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
probebly wont be worth it for me, but im weird lol.
At your current build level this unit will offer no performance gain, would likely hurt performance, and will almost certainly create a number of issues that will be very difficult to tune around. Idle tuning will be a bear, as will transition from closed to open loop, and steady speed cruising. It's too damned big for a n/a 4.6 and will create more problems than could be listed in a forum post.
I deal with 2 to 3 people a month who seem to think they are tuning Honda Civics that were deliberately choked off at the factory, and have "upgraded" the intake and/or MAF because that's what the rice burner magazines have told them they need to do--and then have all sorts of tuning problems that could best be resolved by reinstalling the OEM components.
The fact is that, for the PI GTs, the OEM CAI airbox/intake tube, and the OEM 80 mm MAF, are all any n/a application of the 2V engine could possibly need and you are throwing money down a rat-hole in "upgrading" them...
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-cliff knight- My Mustang
2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned
3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 ft.lb.
Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
well them i wont be doing that lol. Thats why i ask, there is dangers to changing anything in the air and fuel department, i just dont know about them all. So my wquestion to you then cliffy, ive seen you mention 24 lbs injectors not being a bad choice for bolt on mustangs, but what do i do about that maf? whats a good replacement? factory stuff is so expensive, i just want to make the car run better, and upgrades arent to far down the road thats why i keep my eyes open for saving money if i can. Obviously it doesnt always work...
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
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