You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I know how u feel, I was in the same boat as you. I did the things in my sig and I swear to u if I didn't do the install myself I would swear that I was given a totally different car. Just backing out of the garage feels different, and taking an off ramp at 80+ feels incredible. U should do it, I promise u will wish you would have done suspension work sooner.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
99 GT (AUTO)
Mods: UD pullies, shift kit, Super 40's, 75mm TB, C&L Plenum, Diablo Tuner, K&N FIPK, 4.10's, progress springs, UPR spherical LCA's and UCA's, UPR CC plates, KYB GR2 struts, Gas-a-just shocks and quads steeda bumpsteer kit, x2 ball joints, shorter endlinks, polyurethane front and rear iso's and a few other suspension mods.
Is there a reason NOONE has mentioned rear control arms yet? The god awful factory sloppy bushings being replaced by a quality set of heim end CAs would do you some good for sure. SFCs are a big yes, as well as new shocks/struts, but seriously, the CAs will help alot too.
__________________
2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
i street race 90% of the time with my car maby see's the track 1-2x a year, but it is in the process of being built for a drag car (street racing for money etc..)
so far...
-BMR adj, uppers (spherical bearings)
-BMR lowers (spherical)
-spgerical bearings in axle
-eibach drag springs in rear with bag
soon..
-QA1 struts
-4 cyl. fox springs in front
-anti roll bar
now i used to have a maximum motorsports strut tower brace and i took it off and it was night and day diffrence handle wise it got REALLY sloppy.. but like i said if your into road racing then do it. it just wasent for me
__________________
2001 True Blue Cobra.....it moves...or should i say it did
My mustang is pretty much full bolt ons, tuner and gears are coming soon. But after that Im looking to update the suspension since the car rides like a tank and has pretty dismal road feel and numb steering. So this is what Im thinking
Currently have H&R Supersports
Want to ad...
Tokico D-spec's
Weld in sub frame connectors
Eibach anti roll bars
Strut tower brace
Now all of this sounds great on paper, but for a street car what am I really going to notice? Obviously the car should feel stiffer and handle better but does anybody that has some suspension mods similar to this chime in and let me know if its really worh the money to do all of this on a street car? I really want the car to feel far more solid then it does, right now it just has that wet noodle feeling. Also Im probably going to sell my 18x9/18x10's and go with 17x9's all the way around and probably upgrade to cobra brakes once they need to be changed.
After those mods it will feel like a brand new car, but I'd do CAs before a STB....
FLSFCs should be THE FIRST mod done to a 94-04. The flex in these cars without them is ridonkulous.
__________________ I'll be nicer if you'll be smarter
99 Cobra-313/313, 04 Mach 1 interior w/IUP, SRA w/FRPP ISF 4.10s, FR500 steering wheel, JLT CAI, Steeda UDPs, MRT catted H, Flowmaster Original 40s w/4" tips, MGW STS, Diablosport tuned, H&R SS, Bilstiens, J&M FLSFCs, 18x10/18x9 chrome Saleens, LFP 3/8 spacers, 6000K HIDs, perfect paint, teh driver mod and a bag of chips....
So basically this is what Im thinking of going with now
Tokico Hp's (half the price of D-specs but non-adjustable, which is fine with me since its just a street car)
MM FLSFC's
Steeda sway bar
and probably rear LCA's
Itd all cost about $800, and if I did the D-specs itd be well over $1000 so thats a nice bit of savings right there since I think the D-specs are more than I need. And install would only cost 30 bucks for a 24 pack of sam adams since me and a buddy would do the installs at my place.
Im trying to do a lot of stuff all at once and on somewhat of a budget
4.10's
powerslot rotors
hawk pads
and all the suspension stuff
And Im trying not to spend more than $1300, so half of that gone just on the shocks would completly kill my budget not that thats the end of the world. Its hard to write checks for car parts when youre trying to save for a house.
Im trying to do a lot of stuff all at once and on somewhat of a budget
4.10's
powerslot rotors
hawk pads
and all the suspension stuff
And Im trying not to spend more than $1300, so half of that gone just on the shocks would completly kill my budget not that thats the end of the world. Its hard to write checks for car parts when youre trying to save for a house.
if your trying to save for a house... that>parts. Your car works fine...save for a house. Just my .02 on that.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company