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personally i would be careful about buying a rotating assembly for that cheep...balanced or not. most of what ive seen is 1400 bucks or higher. im looking at building a short block too. there is a point to buying a built SB, if you can save the extra money, it would probebly be worth it. I cant afford the extra 500-700 bucks right now to have someone else do the easy part, but thats only because i need the motor soon, otherwise even though i know i can do it, id probebly pay to have it done instead heh.
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
dss has one for 1400 its there SX somthing or other. MMR stuff is on sale for 1600ish
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CAI, 75mm TB, upper intake, under drive, sct tune, bassani x pipe with cats bullet style mufflers. MM subframe connectors, 2 different types of lowering springs...not sure whats in the back looks like HR with a 1.5 drop, and a lowering technologys 2.1 drop in the front. MGW shifter.
mustang dyno 225hp 275tq
Best E.T. 13.39
Best trap 105.49
Our stock crank is good til like 600 crank if i remember correctly. So i mean for the security id find a cobra crank and buy that and then buy some decent rods and pistons and have it all balanced and you should have a nice rotating assembly for cheap. I mean around my area, cobra cranks are about $300. So you'd have a rotating assembly for like $1100 or so plus the $900 you're looking at a built motor for $2000...which is not bad. But you can get an MMR600 for $2400. But its all in what you want.
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2002 Mustang GT Conv: PYPES O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air intake, FRPP 4.10's, Xcal 3, Strange 10 way Shocks and Struts, Eibach Pro-Kit, UPR C/C Plates, and Steeda Tri-Ax with Hurst black ball shift knob, 03/04 Cobra bumper....250rwhp, 263rwtq(with slipping clutch)
that is way to much for the shop to quote you that, maybe if you got a port and polish or something, i've called several shops around here, talking $110 flat for a bore, $75 for a compression test, $55hr for port/polish, and you supply the parts. wow. thats alot. and said, talkin balance $125, hell even $200 is still more than half.
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
I dont know why you were thinking that. lol You might have been thinking in lines of the MMR800 only being different from the MMR600 being that you get a cobra crank and you got a little confused. I dont know though. And it could be that youre thinking about your pushrod motor crank being good til 800. lol
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2002 Mustang GT Conv: PYPES O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air intake, FRPP 4.10's, Xcal 3, Strange 10 way Shocks and Struts, Eibach Pro-Kit, UPR C/C Plates, and Steeda Tri-Ax with Hurst black ball shift knob, 03/04 Cobra bumper....250rwhp, 263rwtq(with slipping clutch)
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