What Subs/Amp is everyone running with UDP's
#1
What Subs/Amp is everyone running with UDP's
Its time for some Subs. but im clueless as to what a good brand is. so heres a few ?'s
whats a good brand?
what kinda system could i run with my Underdrive pullies?
what will fit in my trunk?
i was thinking 2 12's and a 600w amp?
and what is everyone else running?
whats a good brand?
what kinda system could i run with my Underdrive pullies?
what will fit in my trunk?
i was thinking 2 12's and a 600w amp?
and what is everyone else running?
#2
I had a 12" l5 kicker sub a 750 amp, and 2 farad capacitor. But then I found out how gay listening to retarded loud music is, and just sold it and started stripping weight on my car. Worked out well.
Give it a few years, you'll get tired of the bass.
Give it a few years, you'll get tired of the bass.
#3
idk much about the UDP part of the question, but i run:
1 12" alpine type R sub power by a 1200W amp... it's currently bridged to 4ohms - 400watts rms
2 12's will be insane depending on the rms wattage of the sub...
my single 12" is WAYYY MORE than enough in a mustang... and its detuned massively...
2 12's will give you very limited trunk space and it will weigh your *** down another 20+ pounds at the least
1 12" alpine type R sub power by a 1200W amp... it's currently bridged to 4ohms - 400watts rms
2 12's will be insane depending on the rms wattage of the sub...
my single 12" is WAYYY MORE than enough in a mustang... and its detuned massively...
2 12's will give you very limited trunk space and it will weigh your *** down another 20+ pounds at the least
#5
get a 1000/1v2 JL amp w/ bass **** and a w7.You'll be satisfied! plus a good stereo. There's nothing like listening to music the way you suppose to- loud with bass!
if that's too much go with 500/1 jl amp and a w6
if that's too much go with 500/1 jl amp and a w6
Last edited by nascrchi; 10-12-2009 at 06:58 PM.
#6
I would run a capacitor if i were you. it will be way easier on your alternator(especially with udp) and your headlights won't dim with your bass. I used to have an explorer with 2 12's( 1200 max and 600 rms watts a piece) and an 1800 max watt(900 rms watt) amp with a capacitor and had no problems with that setup. As far as a brand you really can't go wrong with any big names such as rockford fosgate, alpine, kicker, etc. I think the biggest factor in sound quality is the BOX. If you have an awesome box you can run lower wattage and still have big sound.
Oh yeah, and get a nice headunit with a high-pass filter for your door speakers so you can turn the bass down in those speakers while your sub is thumpin.
Oh yeah, and get a nice headunit with a high-pass filter for your door speakers so you can turn the bass down in those speakers while your sub is thumpin.
Last edited by tator152; 10-12-2009 at 08:29 PM.
#8
I would love to improve on my lackluster mach 460 but I can't bring my self to add mroe weight to an already over weight car I guess. I think JL audio however makes some extremely light weight subs but they are pricey. You will notice a weight gain too. It's like that feeling you get about how much slower your car is with more than jsut you riding it it. But should be okay if you pull it out before racing at the track. Some boxes are a bitch too with the small trunk space so even more reason to look at the very small JL subs
#9
I've got a 12 inch JL in a trunk box wired up to a memphis audio amp, no udp but... it's more than enough bass, i actually have the bass turned down really low on my head unit... as for the extra weight, if you're racing just take the sub and amp out, I've had the JL sub in my car for the past 4 years and love it and haven't had any problems with it, pioneer makes great audio equipment as well... just remember you get what you pay for