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Im an n/a man myself; I just like the way the power comes on. I dont think driving around at 400hp for a DD is very practical so spending 4 grand on good heads/cams/ intake would be worth it to me.
Just my .02
KBs are pretty darn street friendly and practical. You are at full control on whether you go into boost or not. You can cruise around as if it were 100% NA all day long if you wish.
OP
400RWHP with NA=$8,000 at a minimum. Cons - Obnoxious street drivability. Absolutely no room to grow, your engine is already tapped for all its power. You have to rev your engine to the moon to see that power. Costs twice as much. Pros - A really nice cammed up exhaust note(achievable with an S/C). You can say "I'm cool because my engine doesn't use compressed air"
400RWHP with FI=$3000 at a minimum. Cons - None Pros - Room go grow another 50-100RWHP depending on what SC you get, some have even more than 100RWHP over 400 to be gotten(with forged internals). Full boost at anywhere from 1/4th the RPMS to 1/2 the RPMs that a N/A engine needs to see to match that power. Way more street friendly. Costs half of an N/A build. Supercharger sounds badass, especially so with a Kenne Bell.
Choice is yours.
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if this is a DD stay away from NA. when you get into heads and cams and all that stuff, your daily driving goes down the toilet. you have zero power down low and end up burning alot of gas just to get moving. you will spend thousands of dollars and probably wont even hit 400 engine hp.
you can sc your car for half of what your thinking. a used centri blower kit can be had for 2 grand or less. it will have little affect on your daily driving (some hp is robbed by the extra pulley on your accessory belt but not much). if you want a KB plan on 5-6 grand but it will be alot more fun to drive with a KB over a centri blower.
and around 450 engine horsepower (not wheel hp) is the breaking point on the rods, no where near 600. rods are the weakest point on our motors. our cranks arent bad but the rods are like pencils.
Why not build a short block with a decent compression, say 9.3, with mild cams and good heads. Then when it's not enough you don't have to tear it back down to keep going.
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"There are no traffic jams along the extra mile" http://eaglerod.com/
i have a feeling this is gonna turn into a na vs sc thread.
But IMO Trevors and 01GT's cars are much cooler than and no offense, the sc'ed guys car. i just like how they are the "underdogs" and with like 300rwhp they run low 12's. but yea im not denying that your gonna dump alot of money into the na route vs sc. but what it boils down too in almost every thread in this forum is WHAT YOU WANT OUT OF YOUR CAR. most of us just tell you the best way to get the most hp per $$..and thats a supercharger or Nitrous.
Haha definitely. There is always nitrous if he did a crazy N/A build and wanted more. The 2v is a pig unfortunately and it's just hard to make motor power. I think a 4v head swap would be more cost effective but that's a whole nother game!
Get the trick flow heads, some nice but not to aggressive cams, and a 10 : 1 or so compression and run her to 8000 and enjoy it.
To those that say N/A isn't streetable I DD mine.
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"There are no traffic jams along the extra mile" http://eaglerod.com/
Talk about peer pressure! Somehow I was trying to convince myself I could get enough power NA and supercharger would just leave me spinning anyway. What was I thinking?
Another day gone by and KB is in the lead. Really want that low end torque. Like they say no replacement for displacement......even if its artificial.
I'm thinking the 600 hp breaking point I heard about was the crank. I guess I'll shell out extra for quality rods and pistons.
Bonus is I can move fwd with my rebuild before I have to save for all the NA goodies!
well our rods are actually the weakest part. they go at 450. i tihnk our pistons start to go around 500.
I personally am staying naturally aspirated. i just like the thought of a high reving motor going down the strip and maybe suprising a few people. Im gonna rework my bottom end and get some TF head friendly cams and see if she wont make 380rwhp+. and still be a DD.
Well I cracked my piston at 410 rwhp at 10 psi. OP stock motor will be fine to a point and recommend going with supercharger vs. na. You would be perfectly fine at 8 psi keep wrhp under 400 rwhp like 370 or so.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the tits off of your car.
Who buys 17" Saleens? It's like having a mentally challenged girlfriend. Everyone's proud of you for having a GF and that you're not gay but they still feel bad for you.
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