Tim99GT

HAHAHAHAHA i dont think many people had dial up then either but i put it just in case

It definitely has taken a while...

Tim99GT

Update:
Dropped the fuel tank yesterday evening and modified my cobra fuel hat to allow me to run each pump independently with the MDM jr. I also deleted the PPRV from the hat. I will be reinstalling the hat and fuel tank later this evening and will finish up the wiring for the KB BAP and MDM Jr.

Pics:
Removed pumps and cut the wires going to the pumps from the harness. The hat is wired from the factory to piggy back one pump off of the other. The MDM jr drives each pump independently so i needed to cut this out and run separate wires for each pump. I am using a pair of SVT focus pumps (Will hopefully be sufficient) and the connectors are the same so i am doing the wiring in a way so that i can reuse the connectors.

Extended the wires on one plug. These will be run through the hat and spliced into the MDM jr output wires (Yes i know i have two red wires on it... I ran out of black wiring the other day. its marked with a sharpie so i know the difference lol))

Soldered and heat shrinks the other plug to the factory harness wires

Drilled a hole to pass the two new wires through

Removed the factory tubing and PPRV and installed the delete kit with new hoses

Its going to be a tight fit getting this back in the tank..

Everything back together

Its hard to see but i took a small hose cap and cut the end (Capping part) off. I will use this to help seal the hole. I placed JB weld on the bottom side of the fuel hat and then place JB weld in the cap. I pushed the two wires through the cap after making a small hole in it and slid this cap down onto the hole. The reason i used a cap was bc i could pack it with JB weld and push down on it. This caused the JB weld to be pushed between the wires and any open area on the hole. The hole was drilled only ;large enough to barley fit the two wires through so its not lik this took much JB weld. Once the cap was pushed down i placed more JB weld all over the cap and part of the hat to help make a solid seal.

Cap pushed down


All done




I didnt get a picture of it (Ill take one later this evening), but i slid back the insulation on the factory wiring harness and cut the two wires( Power and Ground) that go to the fuel pump that is connected via factory connection. I heat shrinked the side going into the harness and prepped the other. This way all 4 wires that i need to splice into the MDM will be available and ready.

More to come this afternoon when i get to mess with the car again

Tim99GT

Sooo.. I just snapped the fuel level sender contact chip (or whatever it's called).... F@&$

BlackMage

all your photobucket links are MIA :-/

Tim99GT

Just noticed this. I must have moved the pictures after i posted the IMG codes. Ill redo it for yall.



EDIT: Added correct IMG codes to post above

Tim99GT

Update: Started the car for the first time last night!!
She doesn't want to stay running though and my exhaust was a little black so i assume I'm running pretty rich. I have a A/F Gauge but i haven't connected it yet.
Today after work i am going to go through everything again and see if i missed anything.
The longest we got it to run was about a min or so and that was me manually opening the throttle to keep it running.

Maybe the TPS is bad?
Or maybe the o2 sensors are bad?

If i remember right when the o2 sensors go out they cause the car to run rich correct?
Do they affect idle at all or just driving conditions?

Im go to do some research but thought id ask here for a quicker response.

BlackMage

are all your vacuum hoses connected up as well? or possibly a massive vacuum leak somewhere else? When i did my 4v swap i didnt have a MAF connected or the intake tubing and i could keep it running that was as well, crack the throttle and it would stay running. Just a thought! Glad to hear it DOES run though! I'd say vids next, but get that thing runnin good first!

you can test the TPS by turning the car to on, and connecting a voltmeter to each wire of the TPS sensor, check for voltage, and check to make sure it is a constant change in voltage as you open the throttle blade by hand. you should see voltage right out of the gate at 0.5 i believe. If you see any OFL readings or 0.00, then you have a bad spot in the sensor.

Tim99GT

I think everything is right, but i will definitely double check this evening.

Here is a quick vid taken last night when we were trying to trouble shoot. She would run while i held the throttle slightly open but as soon as i would let go it would kill.

KB00GT

This car is going to be sick man, I have the 2.1 KB and I am jealous of you now. HAHA but anyways awesome car and yes it is my understanding that if an 02 is bad it will cause the car to go into a "limp home" mode and this will make it dump fuel (run rich) to protect the motor....not saying that is your problem but i think it could be a possibility

Tim99GT

Well i looked everything over again and noticed that i didnt have the FRPS line connected to my boost line which is also connected to the bypass valve and bung on the blowers manifold.
Tried to start and encountered the same issue.

I also notice that my front o2 sensors weren't connected all the way. I connected them, unplugged the battery for a min and tried to restart and same outcome. The only other line i noticed was the small vacuum line coming from the charcoal canister is unplugged. I will connect it tomorrow and try again. I didnt want to try it tonight since its late and the car sounds like a race car lol

After this im kind of lost... maybe the o2 sensors are hooked up backwards? I have the connector on the harness thats closest to the engine hooked up to the o2 sensor on the passenger side of the car and the other connected to the driver side. Im going to search a bit and see if this is right.

As far as the car running tonight, its still super rich. she smoked pretty good for the 30 seconds i held the throttle cracked. I didnt have to open the throttle much to keep it running. I think the RPM's were somewhere around 1500-2k. This may just be a issue that needs to be tuned around. The car is currently on a stock tune. I did plug in my livewire and was going to try to set a base tune but for some reason couldnt find the area to set injectors, maf size, etc. I could adjust spark, WOT A/F, tire size and the like but nothing i thought would make a different. Not to mention tuning is not my forte so i left it as is.

I think im going to remove the cat back (My alum drive shaft is touching the custom bent exhaust since the alum DS is larger in diameter) and throw her on a trailer and bring her to a tuner and see what they can determine.
Im not sure when this is going to happen though. I have a killer chiller coming in the mail soon so im going to install this before bringing it.

Anyways, Ill be looking everything over again tomorrow after work and will tie in the charcoal filter line.





Thanks man! its been a LONG time coming lol Hopefully i can get this car running right so i can break her in and then put her on the dyno and lay down some numbers.