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I was thinking about upgrading my rear end but have a few questions. I will be going with 31 spline axles, full spool, c clip eliminators. What else would I need to do a rebuild? Axles, spool, c clip eliminators, bolt circles and studs? I will be getting 4.10s to go with. What do you guys think? Should I go with Strange instead of Moser?
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For racing, serious off-road, or crazy hot-rodders, a spool is the ultimate traction differential. Actually, it can hardly be called a differential because it does not differentiate. Spools have several purposes in a differential. First, they lock both left and right axles solid together so that there can be no loss of power due to the unit allowing one wheel to spin faster than the other. Second, they usually support the ring gear much better than most other differentials. Last, they can be lighter than a differential, which saves rotating mass as well as un-sprung weight that the suspension has to contain. The main shortcoming of spools is the fact that the outside wheel has to turn faster when negotiating a turn if both wheels are to maintain traction. If the axles are locked together, one or both wheels have to slip in order for the outside wheel to travel farther than the inside wheel. This can cause the rear of the vehicle to spin out, fish-tale, or can cause a lot of noise that sounds like positraction clutch chatter as the axles twist and release. Sometimes these effects are not all that bad, and they are less severe when 35-spline or larger axles are used. For those people on a budget, there are mini-spools available for many rearend designs. A mini-spool fits inside the standard open carrier, replacing the spider gears, and locking the left and right axle shafts together just like a spool does. A mini spool drives exactly like a full spool does, but they are not as strong as a full spool and do not add any extra support to the ring gear like a spool does."
What you want is a limited slip differential
quick quote
"Positractions & Limited Slips:
Transmits equal torque to both wheels when driving straight ahead. However when one wheel spins due to loss of traction, a patch of ice, mud, too much throttle, etc., the unit automatically provides more torque to the wheel that has traction. Recommended for daily driving, works well in ice, rain, mud and snow. However, in situations where absolute lockup is needed, a limited slip is not the best choice due to the fact that limited slips do slip in some situations.
Positraction is a type of limited slip and is a term that is used very loosely as another name or description for limited slip differentials. A positraction is not more aggressive than a limited slip or vice versa. The name "positraction" was used by General Motors for their limited slip differential and the name has been associated with limited slips for many years."
Types of above
"POSITRACTIONS / LIMITED SLIPS
Auburn Gear (AG)
The Auburn Gear limited slip uses a cone style clutch that wears directly against the carrier case and provides the friction force to make the unit work. This design is not rebuildable. Once the cone clutch or case wears out, the entire unit must be replaced. Even with this shortcoming, this design works well for occasional use where extra traction is needed. They have good impact strength in passenger cars and trucks up to 1 ton. They will hold up well to high horse power, but will not last long if there is a lot of tire spinning. (aftermarket ) 1 yr warranty
Auburn Gear PRO (AG)
Also cone style & not rebuildable. Designed with more lockup force than regular Auburn Gear limited slips. Will provide better high performance traction than regular Auburn Gear, but still wears out under extreme off-road use and heavy wheel spin. This design tends to chatter a lot and is not recommended if the customer is looking for a smooth unit. (aftermarket ) 1 yr warranty
Detroit Locker (DET)
Heavy duty. Probably the most durable design available, the king of traction differentials. Usually causes banging and clunking, but gives 100% lock-up whenever traction is needed. Unlocks when negotiating a turn so that the outer wheel can turn faster than the ring gear is turning and the inside wheel are turning. Does not need any interaction from the driver. New Sof-Locker design has damping device to reduce banging and clunking. Includes carrier case that is stronger than stock except in 2 applications where the original factory carrier case is used. Only the 10.5" 14 bolt truck and the Nissan V6 designs use the factory carrier case and these cases are both very strong. (aftermarket ) 1 yr warranty
Eaton (EAT)
Clutch type, similar to Trac-Lok in design, yet far stronger like a Power-Lok, and, more aggressive and better lock-up similar to the Power-Lok design. These units came as an original equipment option in 65-72 12T (12 bolt GM truck), 12P (12 bolt GM passenger), 8.2" GM pass, 63-79 Cast Iron Corvettes. The original OEM 12T case was very weak, but the new design replacement from Eaton is very strong. 4 preload springs and 2 steel preload spring plates. Latest design uses HD nodular iron case, forged side and pinion gears, no-chatter, race-bred, carbon fiber clutches for extreme strength and longevity. Old design, all steel clutches which are still available in 18 or 22 clutch designs for those who need more lock-up and are not bothered by clutch chatter. For even more lockup customization, there are also 4 levels of spring pressure available (3 from Eaton and a fourth from GM) that can be used to vary the clutch preload from 200 lbs. to 800 lbs. Originally used in mid sixties GM muscle cars and trucks. This unit is now available for Ford applications and soon will be available for Dana Spicer, AMC, and Chrysler applications. They have a high tolerance for abuse in high horsepower vehicles. Recommended for everyday driving and severe off-road use (factory GM )
Equal-Lock
This was the first design limited slip used by Ford in both the 8" and 9" rearends. Except for new clutches, there are only used parts available now. This design is not aggressive and does not lock-up harder when more power is applied as most every other limited slip design does. Ford built two different Equal-lock designs. One uses 4 plain steel plates, three fiber lined plates, and one Belleville spring for preload. The other uses only 3 plain steel plates, 2 fiber lined plates, and 2 Belleville spring plates. The design that uses two spring plates can only be converted to the single spring design with more clutches if the appropriate clutch hub is used to accommodate the higher number of clutch plates. Can be identified by 5 tab clutches (Ford Traction-Lock for the 8" and 9" use 4 tab clutches) (factory )
Traction-Lock (T/L)
(Also referred to as a Track-Lock, not to be mistaken with the Dana Spicer Trac-Lok) This is the second design limited slip that Ford used in both the 8" and 9" rearend designs. It is a fairly good design for moderate horsepower applications. This is a clutch type design that uses 4 plain steel clutches, 4 fiber lined clutches, and 1 plate that is steel on one side and has fiber lining on the other side. It uses a two piece case that looks very similar to the standard open carriers, except the parting line between the two case halves is covered by the left half that "wraps around" the right half. The parting line between the two halves on a standard case is easy to see and is not covered. Traction-Locks are not very aggressive and tend to wear out fairly quickly if used heavily.
Newer design Ford rearends such as the 7.5", 8.8", 9.75", 10.25", and 10.5" also can be ordered with Traction-Locks. These differentials use a one-piece case with two spider pinion gears, except for the heavy-duty 10.5" rearend, which uses three spider pinion gears. The 7.5" and 8.8" designs have soft clutches that tend to wear-out quickly and are not aggressive even when new. The 10.25" unit uses composite clutches that holdup fairly well, but it is not aggressive and tends to slip too much when needed off-road. Trac-Lok is a medium-duty limited slip and will hold up without breaking, but will wear-out the clutches quickly under heavy-duty use. If the unit wears out it usually can be rebuilt. (factory )
Trac-Lok (T/L)
Built by Dana Spicer for use in Spicer rearends, AMC rearends, and 1998 & older 10.25" Ford rearends. The old design built up until about 1989 was weak. The 1990 and newer design is fairly strong and even rivals the Power-Lok for impact durability, but the clutches do not provide as much lock-up force and tend to wear out in about 50,000 miles if used in the rear. Works better in the front of vehicles because it's not aggressive. The main selling points for this design are the fact that clutch chatter is almost non-existent, and it is very inexpensive. These two points make it a great unit for many applications and a very good value for the money. This unit makes a great front limited slip and works well for those who need a little extra traction but cannot tolerate clutch chatter. The Trac-Lok came factory installed in many models such as D28, D44, D60, AMC 20, AMC35, 10.25" Ford. The problem with this unit is that it is not very aggressive and power transfer is minimal. Also, 1988 and earlier units tend to break fairly easily. (1piece case, 2 pinion gears, and 2 tab clutches). (factory )
Powr-Lok (P/L)
This clutch type limited slip is the strongest and most aggressive limited slip differential available from Dana Spicer. It is a clutch type unit using floating cross shafts that ride up on ramps in the case. When power is applied, the shafts ride up the ramps and load the clutches for a positive engagement. A Power-Lok will not lock up 100%, but it is a very durable unit that will hold up fairly well with tall tires. It can be rebuilt, and can be set up smooth or aggressive by changing the clutch design or stacking configuration. Powr-Loks are easily identified by their 2-piece case. They are a very strong unit due to the 4 spider gear design that provides twice as many teeth to carry the load as a 2 spider gear unit does. However, the case bolts can stretch or loosen after severe use over time. (4 pin, 4 tab clutches) (factory) "
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KENNE BELL 2.1L = SOLD
KENNE BELL 2.8H = Waiting to be installed
What if the car isn't a DD and just a cruise/drag car then would the spool be ok? I'm not worried about taking corners fast, I want to go fast straight lol
Quote from above just in case you missed it "they lock both left and right axles solid together"
You dont want this on a street car... It will be like driving around with a "solid axle"(no differential at all).... even taking turns a low speed will cause the rear end to chirp. It will def suck during bad weather/ect... imagine yourself taking a turn and you start to spin a tire, instead of the diff normally "correcting" the power going to that wheel allowing you to regain control, it will just keep on spinning. AKA you lose control
Full drag car = spool
street car = limited slip/standard diff
Another quote from above "The main shortcoming of spools is the fact that the outside wheel has to turn faster when negotiating a turn if both wheels are to maintain traction. If the axles are locked together, one or both wheels have to slip in order for the outside wheel to travel farther than the inside wheel. This can cause the rear of the vehicle to spin out, fish-tale, or can cause a lot of noise that sounds like positraction clutch chatter as the axles twist and release."
__________________
KENNE BELL 2.1L = SOLD
KENNE BELL 2.8H = Waiting to be installed
Id just get a locker style differential or a torsen T2R. That way when you go through a corner you arent dragging a wheel through it. Just common sense. Unless it is strictly a drag car, put an actual differential in it.
^^^I guess i was too slow. But i listed some alternatives!
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2002 Mustang GT Conv: PYPES O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air intake, FRPP 4.10's, Xcal 3, Strange 10 way Shocks and Struts, Eibach Pro-Kit, UPR C/C Plates, and Steeda Tri-Ax with Hurst black ball shift knob, 03/04 Cobra bumper....250rwhp, 263rwtq(with slipping clutch)
Id just get a locker style differential or a torsen T2R. That way when you go through a corner you arent dragging a wheel through it. Just common sense. Unless it is strictly a drag car, put an actual differential in it.
^^^I guess i was too slow. But i listed some alternatives!
LOL well the styles you listed are "basically" the same as the limited slip. They have some small differences, but all in all they do the same thing. they still allow one wheel to travel/overpower the other in case of lost traction.
I have been looking at that torsen really hard lately.
I love the fact that is has no clutch plates in it. But my god does it have a steep price tag...
__________________
KENNE BELL 2.1L = SOLD
KENNE BELL 2.8H = Waiting to be installed
I was thinking about upgrading my rear end but have a few questions. I will be going with 31 spline axles, full spool, c clip eliminators. What else would I need to do a rebuild? Axles, spool, c clip eliminators, bolt circles and studs? I will be getting 4.10s to go with. What do you guys think? Should I go with Strange instead of Moser?
axle seals and bearings, better rear end girdle. Dont get a spool I can guarantee in less then a month you will want to pull it out and put a lsd back in. As far as moser over strange I think thats personal preference. I have moser 31 splines, eaton posi and 4.10's and have no complaints.
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Rear end upgrade
