Need help choosing handling mods...

[01MGGT]

Ok so I am getting ready to order more stuff soon. Right now I am trying to stay around 300 bucks for my next upgrade. First of all while I will make a trip to the strip here and there I plan to road race and autox more often. Even more time will be spent doing some spirited driving on whatever curvy roads I can find. So I just don't know what I should do first. Because I realize that the mods will all work best in combination. And that will come with time. A quick question is..I have heard if I plan to hit the twisties more than the strip I should forget about rear upper control arms. Is that true? Here are some thing I am looking at... Also for control arms I must be able to have a spring perch and sway bar mount New front brake rotors with Hawk HPS pads SS lines and some good high performance fluid. Cost about $290 give or take a little. UPR upper and lower control arm package $299 I picked this one because I hear I want the spherical type bushings where possible ( Jazzer can comment ) But I really don't need the adjustability I don't think and not sure how these compare to MM's parts Link http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ackage-99.html Sub frame connectors from MM About $169 plus shipping and welding at $94 an hour labor rate. MM Rear lower non adjustable control arms http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=518 $259.99 MMR Upper control arms $129.95 http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=544 Also if I do upper and lower arms I should remove the quad shocks correct? If you guys have other suggestions in this price range that would be great. Also if you want to recommend a paticular brand or something please link to it and if possible explain why I should go that route so I can learn something while I am at it. Thanks as always!

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[WannaBeGearHead]

Don't waste your money on UCAs. You want to get a torque arm and panhard bar/watts link. With those two you will be much better off and they will do a MUCH better job then the UCAs. With your budget you won't be able to buy them so I would just maybe do new brake pads up front and in back. Maybe even some new rotors if you can find a good deal somewhere. FLSFCs would be a great purchase also.

[01MGGT]

So I should do brakes first. Then FLSFC then lower arms and a pan hard bar correct?

[WannaBeGearHead]

Well I'm not sure which one you should do first because I don't know to much about twisties and what a person should do first for a twisty minded car.

New brake pads would definitely help you out. FLSFCs would give you more rigidity along with better weight transfer and better handling. I would only get the pan hard bar if you could purchase the torque arm with it at the same time. The pan hard bar is going to keep your rear end from sliding out on you in aggressive turns and the torque arm is going to help keep your wheels on the ground and help with turns and acceleration. Also with the PHB and TA, you will be able to remove your UCAs which will free up a little weight.

Seeing how you only have $300 to spend. I would probably do FLSFCs then brakes and then PHB and TA.

[Blk003GT]

suspension or performance parts don't do crap if u can't stop.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Hey, 01

I am in agreement with much of what my friend GearHead is saying, but can be a bit more specific on some things. First, your budget will NOT get anywhere near the goals you propose, I'm afraid

In order of preference to get to your stated goals, I recommend the following:

1. FLSFC's (weld-in)
2. LCA's with a spherical end (I prefer torque-box end, not soo much the MM one linked)
3. Decision time!

The UCA's linked above are not a good solution and recommend you DON'T get them. Going PHB and torque-arm, as mentioned by Gear, is far better option to address the AX and will be an improvement over the stock, as well as linked UCA's above, for the 1/4 mile as well.

Spend your current money on brakes OR FLSFC's and save some additional money. Come back with your next $300 and we'll talk LCA's

Jazzer

[01MGGT]

Sounds good jazzer. Great advice as always I will do my breaks then! What's so special about the cobra/bullit/mach brake upgrades I have been seeing? Are they the basic same 2 piston caliper that are on the GT? Or is it mainly done so you can run a larger rotor? It seems the $500 complete package is gone from buyfordracing.com

[WannaBeGearHead]

The Cobra brakes is different. It has bigger rotors and calipers. A much better braking system then what is on the GT.