atrain59

* The EFI 2 Valve Nitrous Plate System that Revolutionized the Nitrous Industry setting a standard that no other nitrous company can match.
* Available with no bottle, black 10lb or 15lb bottle.
* High flow 45 degree bottle valve with dual accessory ports.
* Quality high flowing large solenoids with purge port design and limited lifetime warrenty.
* Revolutionary nitrous discharge plate, machined from billet aluminum with six specially designed nitrous and fuel discharge ports capable of flowing over 400 horse power, black anodized and laser etched with Nitrous Outlet.
* Quick release stainless steel bottle brackets.
* Jetting from 50-200 HP.
* Upgradeable to flow over 400HP.
* Designed to work with todays fuels.
* E85 Compatible with different jetting.
* Made in the USA!
Also bought a purge kit and a summit racing RPM window switch. I think im going to run a 100 shot to be on the safe side for a while. Is there any thing else i need to buy to have a safe system.

chrisgtr

the only thing you should watch is that intake manifold. if the nitrous gets it too cold (assuming you got the plastic one) it will crack and potentially shatter that thing. as far as the heads and block go, as long as they are in realitively good shape you can safely shoot 20Hp per cylinder. like i said tho... that intake is a bit sketch. its the reason i havent bought the same kit already... waitin to get a typhoon aluminum intake.

mrtstang

A bottle heater is almost essential IMO. Are you changing the plugs too?

atrain59

Yes im changing the plugs Im putting TR6's

atrain59

Yea i have the plastic one. I am plaining on doing the pi swap and then buying a different intake. I am going to start off with a 50 shot and work my way up to 125 maybe a 150.

ZW99GT

Never heard of a 2v intake freezing and cracking from the n20 being too cold. Its always too cold. Lol The fuel can puddle from a less than optimum design and ignite causing it to crack but that's also unlikely on a moderate shot.