Value of this, as-is?
05-28-2010, 10:23 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
Value of this, as-is?
Alright guys, not looking for lowballs because YOU want to buy it, also not looking for dreamer prices to boost my spirits. But this is a long story kinda...
I am depressed, almost to tears, thinking of the possibility of selling this car before I finish and re-enjoy it. I don't get emotionally attached to things like cars ever, but this one is getting me down.
I am thinking of selling it as-is, or even with me doing a little more work. But not unless it would be worth it to me.
Here's the car info:
1997 Mustang GT vert approximately 90K on the shell.
BODY:
-Black
-All stock panels except a 3.5" cowl hood.
-Some scratches, clear fading in front of headlights on top of bumper. A ding here or there. -Otherwise great shape for it's age.
-Damn near mint top with heated glass window(replaced it with one from a wrecked Termi).
-Clear turn signals, not that that's a value considering mod, just saying.
INTERIOR:
-4 point roll bar welded in and painted gloss black to match.
-No rear seat(because of where the rear roll bar struts were going with this particular one).
-Stock front carpet and leather seats.(no tears. drivers side wear, but no tears).
-Stock Mach460 stereo, less the rear speakers.
-Florida50.com after-market gauge bezel with 2 1/16 oil(mech) and temp(mech), 3 1/2" tach and 3 1/2" digital tach with the fancy self-setting feature.
-Pillar pod with 2 1/16" fuel and volt gauges.
-Painless hide-a-switch panel in ash tray location with 2 unused switches, an arm and purge switch for n2o.
SUSPENSION:
EVERYTHING. Lot's to list here:
Here is the best of my knowledge:
Coilovers in front with caster/camber plates
Tubular front control arms
Polyurethane bushings
Front and rear sway bars removed (car was built for drag strip)
Full Hotchkis rear suspension kit
Full length sub-frame connectors welded in
Tubular K-member
17X9 and 17X8 Cobra R replica wheels for the street with Falken tires(245/45/17 and 275/40/17).
MOTOR:
DSS 302 stroker iron shortblock consisting of forged flat top pistons
forged 3.750" crank
forged Eagle I beam rods
Comp XE270AH cams
BBK Long Tube headers
BBK 2.5 inch catless off-road H-pipe
BBK 75mm throttle body
Roush Racing(Magnaflow) side exit mufflers(no tail pipes)
SCT XCAL2 computer tuner
Ported/polished heads.(the current issue. Bent valves. Timing jumped. Pistons are actually fine. Hardly noticeable marks in the carbon build up. No damage to them)(considering having the heads completely gone over and then bolting them back on prior to attempting a sale)
TRANSMISSION:
Stock T-45 that the PO had rebuilt. Shifts perfectly. Love it.
King Cobra clutch
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter with billet pistol grip
REAR END:
posi, stock(28spline?) axles and carrier.
4.10 FRPP gears. Flawless except a whine(set wrong duh), but have EVERY part including brand new 4.10's to rebuild the rear end.
if I missed a single inch of the car, let me know. Also willing to leave the ZEX dry kit in it(has a 125 nozzle and a tune loaded on the XCal for it).
STORY OF WHY IT'S DOWN:
Was driving one day, began smoking, low power. Once I got it to my garage, did compression check, found some dead cylinders. Oil didn't help. Pulled motor, tore heads off, found the issue. A roll pin in the timing chain system(holding a tensioner or guide of some sort), had sheared, timing must have hopped, bent valves. Everything else with the motor/car looks perfectly fine.
Just wondering, with the motor disassembled and out of the car(willing to finish getting head work done, and assembling the long block), what would it be worth to someone? It's about as built as a non-boosted 2v can get. And has a lot of pricey parts. And the shell is in amazing shape for it's age with ZERO rust.
Just trying to see if it's worth it to not finish and just get out from under a project that is at a really bad time in my life.
I am depressed, almost to tears, thinking of the possibility of selling this car before I finish and re-enjoy it. I don't get emotionally attached to things like cars ever, but this one is getting me down.
I am thinking of selling it as-is, or even with me doing a little more work. But not unless it would be worth it to me.
Here's the car info:
1997 Mustang GT vert approximately 90K on the shell.
BODY:
-Black
-All stock panels except a 3.5" cowl hood.
-Some scratches, clear fading in front of headlights on top of bumper. A ding here or there. -Otherwise great shape for it's age.
-Damn near mint top with heated glass window(replaced it with one from a wrecked Termi).
-Clear turn signals, not that that's a value considering mod, just saying.
INTERIOR:
-4 point roll bar welded in and painted gloss black to match.
-No rear seat(because of where the rear roll bar struts were going with this particular one).
-Stock front carpet and leather seats.(no tears. drivers side wear, but no tears).
-Stock Mach460 stereo, less the rear speakers.
-Florida50.com after-market gauge bezel with 2 1/16 oil(mech) and temp(mech), 3 1/2" tach and 3 1/2" digital tach with the fancy self-setting feature.
-Pillar pod with 2 1/16" fuel and volt gauges.
-Painless hide-a-switch panel in ash tray location with 2 unused switches, an arm and purge switch for n2o.
SUSPENSION:
EVERYTHING. Lot's to list here:
Here is the best of my knowledge:
Coilovers in front with caster/camber plates
Tubular front control arms
Polyurethane bushings
Front and rear sway bars removed (car was built for drag strip)
Full Hotchkis rear suspension kit
Full length sub-frame connectors welded in
Tubular K-member
17X9 and 17X8 Cobra R replica wheels for the street with Falken tires(245/45/17 and 275/40/17).
MOTOR:
DSS 302 stroker iron shortblock consisting of forged flat top pistons
forged 3.750" crank
forged Eagle I beam rods
Comp XE270AH cams
BBK Long Tube headers
BBK 2.5 inch catless off-road H-pipe
BBK 75mm throttle body
Roush Racing(Magnaflow) side exit mufflers(no tail pipes)
SCT XCAL2 computer tuner
Ported/polished heads.(the current issue. Bent valves. Timing jumped. Pistons are actually fine. Hardly noticeable marks in the carbon build up. No damage to them)(considering having the heads completely gone over and then bolting them back on prior to attempting a sale)
TRANSMISSION:
Stock T-45 that the PO had rebuilt. Shifts perfectly. Love it.
King Cobra clutch
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter with billet pistol grip
REAR END:
posi, stock(28spline?) axles and carrier.
4.10 FRPP gears. Flawless except a whine(set wrong duh), but have EVERY part including brand new 4.10's to rebuild the rear end.
if I missed a single inch of the car, let me know. Also willing to leave the ZEX dry kit in it(has a 125 nozzle and a tune loaded on the XCal for it).
STORY OF WHY IT'S DOWN:
Was driving one day, began smoking, low power. Once I got it to my garage, did compression check, found some dead cylinders. Oil didn't help. Pulled motor, tore heads off, found the issue. A roll pin in the timing chain system(holding a tensioner or guide of some sort), had sheared, timing must have hopped, bent valves. Everything else with the motor/car looks perfectly fine.
Just wondering, with the motor disassembled and out of the car(willing to finish getting head work done, and assembling the long block), what would it be worth to someone? It's about as built as a non-boosted 2v can get. And has a lot of pricey parts. And the shell is in amazing shape for it's age with ZERO rust.
Just trying to see if it's worth it to not finish and just get out from under a project that is at a really bad time in my life.
05-29-2010, 09:03 AM
#2
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
There are no guidelines for pricing a project car, it all depends on whether you can find an interested buyer and how fast you wish to sell it. You may want to think about parting it out, very often the performance parts sold separately will fetch more than the project as a whole...
05-29-2010, 01:01 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
that's without a doubt an option. The N2o kit wouldn't fetch more than $200, a couple odds and ends might get a couple bucks, but I would really need to make a total of $3K to make parting it worth it to me.
What's a rough price for a never wrecked, rust free vert shell? Any rough ideas what people usually pay? If the shell, whole, could fetch a good amount, I would seriously consider parting it.
What's a rough price for a never wrecked, rust free vert shell? Any rough ideas what people usually pay? If the shell, whole, could fetch a good amount, I would seriously consider parting it.
05-30-2010, 12:29 AM
#4
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
that's without a doubt an option. The N2o kit wouldn't fetch more than $200, a couple odds and ends might get a couple bucks, but I would really need to make a total of $3K to make parting it worth it to me.
What's a rough price for a never wrecked, rust free vert shell? Any rough ideas what people usually pay? If the shell, whole, could fetch a good amount, I would seriously consider parting it.
What's a rough price for a never wrecked, rust free vert shell? Any rough ideas what people usually pay? If the shell, whole, could fetch a good amount, I would seriously consider parting it.
05-30-2010, 01:28 AM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
haha i hear ya. Like I said in my OP, there are a lot of things going on in my life making me seriously consider parting it out to get the project off my hands. It just saddens me with the fun I've had with the car in the last 3 years modding, driving and the occasional visit to the 1/8 mile strip.
05-30-2010, 08:22 PM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
I have one local interested in everything. I gave him what I feel to be a fair price for everything. We will see how that goes.
If I part it out, I was hoping to sell the entire engine as-is. Could always sell the cams, then the p&p heads, then the block/rotating assembly. Being it has bent valves, that might be my way to go. Will get prices for everyone soon.
BTW, About the hood. it will only fit 95-98. The headlight shape is different.
If I part it out, I was hoping to sell the entire engine as-is. Could always sell the cams, then the p&p heads, then the block/rotating assembly. Being it has bent valves, that might be my way to go. Will get prices for everyone soon.
BTW, About the hood. it will only fit 95-98. The headlight shape is different.
