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4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

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Old 12-08-2010, 04:40 PM   #21
2000AZ5.0GT
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Originally Posted by mustangmancp View Post
I wouldn't think a s/c would be that rough...i think it'd be the cams/intake/gear combo etc..

LIke my cars a lil more rough off idle, but then again i have a pretty big set of 2v cams and such.
I had a pretty big cam too, but it wasn't that rough of an idle.
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 2000AZ5.0GT View Post
and you know this how? I daily drived a 600rwhp+ 2v with a vortech for 2+ years, it wasn't that rough of an idle.
I never said it's too rough, it's just rougher than a 4v DOHC motor, there's no defying physics.

I hope I don't have to explain why 4v>3v>2v to you guys, but I will if needed.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:55 PM   #23
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I never said it's too rough, it's just rougher than a 4v DOHC motor, there's no defying physics.

I hope I don't have to explain why 4v>3v>2v to you guys, but I will if needed.
What???? Anyways,

OP, it really depends on your personal preference. You can make more power then you will ever need with any of the heads in question. Initial cost of the 4v heads will be less if you get a good deal on some used ones, but the cost of modifying the 4v valvetrain and buying cams etc....will soon even out with the cost of brand new TFS heads and cams.

Depending on your HP goals, both could be an epic waste of money.
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:57 PM   #24
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I never said it's too rough, it's just rougher than a 4v DOHC motor, there's no defying physics.

I hope I don't have to explain why 4v>3v>2v to you guys, but I will if needed.
Please do...none of us on here know anything at all and really need an explanation.

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Originally Posted by mustangmancp View Post
I wouldn't think a s/c would be that rough...i think it'd be the cams/intake/gear combo etc..

LIke my cars a lil more rough off idle, but then again i have a pretty big set of 2v cams and such.
Cory, your cams arent that bad. They are stage 2's. Bigger than stock, but not big by a long shot. And blower cams arent as rough as n/a cams as they have less overlap and less chop on idle.

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what lift are you going by when you say the B head outflows the C head? if you are going by the .500 as your determination than you would also have to apply that logic to the NPI VS PI and you could say the NPI out flows the PI and therefore is a better head but everyone know the NPI is a POS head.
There are so many variables for each build that determine what is the right choice not just flow at .500
Most 4V people agree that the C head is the better option when it comes to the 4V
just my .02 but MF is the last place you need to ask this kind of technical question. you are better off over on SVTP or the Corral for real accurate info
NPI heads arent that crappy, just the cams and the intake. As we all know from Nick's findings, the PI heads have a hyperactive exhaust port anyways, so the flow numbers on the exhaust side dont as much matter I think, and the fact that you can run a NPI head and have plenty of valve clearance for most any camshaft out there leads me to say that if you are NPI right now, just leave the NPI's on there or get them ported for the price of the PI swap, buy aftermarket cams and put a PI intake on there and go.

I do agree though if you're going for 4v heads, you either go for the 03 Cobra head or 00R's/FGT heads.

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I just bought a complete 96' MarkVIII engine and a set of Modmax H beam rods for $400, an intake and basic rebuild will not be anywhere near the $2,600 mark for TFS. You wouldn't need high lift valve springs or any of that unless you are wanting to build a full race engine as the 4V heads do not require the high lift cams to achieve higher flow.
Who said anything about high lift valve springs? You need stronger valve springs to hold the amount of boost, not just cam lift. Last thing you want to do is have a motor all put back together and on the first dyno run pushing 20psi you start floating valves because your valve springs are not strong enough. Have fun with that install, especially when doing 32 of them. 16 are enough for me!

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Originally Posted by tbirdscwd View Post
What???? Anyways,

OP, it really depends on your personal preference. You can make more power then you will ever need with any of the heads in question. Initial cost of the 4v heads will be less if you get a good deal on some used ones, but the cost of modifying the 4v valvetrain and buying cams etc....will soon even out with the cost of brand new TFS heads and cams.

Depending on your HP goals, both could be an epic waste of money.
Exactly. Going TFS heads prevents some work, but OP I guess doesnt mind the wrenching and wiring...GOD I HATE WIRING!!!

OP, good luck. Either head would do you fine. Hell, even ported PI heads would do you fine! I've seen cars making 700rwhp on ported PI's so there really may be no difference. Plus with ported PI's, the ports are optimized for flow characteristics, where factory castings may fall short. Just saying.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:40 PM   #25
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I don't know if anyone has mentioned this to you, but one of the less expensive ways to go is to get a whole Mark VIII Intech engine. It is basically a Teksid block with B heads, a less aggressive intake cam than the 96-98 Cobra, and of course a cast iron 6-bolt crank.
You can't beat the price for this. I found a whole engine from a 97 totaled car, with accessories and air tube and MAF (all electrical connections which I will get rid of) for $160.00 (the engine needs work though and had to pull it out). But you can find one in great shape for $ 400-600.
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Old 04-09-2014, 10:15 AM   #26
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And obviously a different intake, which is less efficient than the Cobra one.
The B heads can also be slightly ported on the exhaust side, which will tremendously increase flow.
The intake side is cavernous already, which is the virtue and flaw on these heads: the high volume translate in enormous flow on high RPMs, or with a power adder such as your turbo. On the downside, the high volume and cross area mean poor air velocity on lower RPMs in NA engines. Thus the use of the IMRCs by Ford on both: Cobra and Mark VIII engines. The IMRCs are motor operated and have a cable for each side that can break, and thus lose lots of flow and power on higher RPMs.
In your case you can simply delete the IMRCs on the cheaper route by removing the butterflies inside. I would leave the rod in to avoid problems with Permatex coming loose and into the engine. The flow gains are so insignificant than either the Permatex solution, or the more expensive IMRC delete set from Ford Racing are not worth the risk and cost respectively.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:14 PM   #27
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This thread is 4 years old bro
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:04 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by supercotufa View Post
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this to you, but one of the less expensive ways to go is to get a whole Mark VIII Intech engine. It is basically a Teksid block with B heads, a less aggressive intake cam than the 96-98 Cobra, and of course a cast iron 6-bolt crank.
You can't beat the price for this. I found a whole engine from a 97 totaled car, with accessories and air tube and MAF (all electrical connections which I will get rid of) for $160.00 (the engine needs work though and had to pull it out). But you can find one in great shape for $ 400-600.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this to you, but you are an idiot
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:16 PM   #29
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I don't know if anyone has mentioned this to you, but you are an idiot
And yet, you took the time to tell me so.
I guess I am a bit less of an idiot than what you are, when you have a compelling need to insult someone just to feel a little bit more important.
Criticize the opinions, but respect the people posting these.

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Old 04-21-2014, 09:58 AM   #30
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And yet, you took the time to tell me so.
Its a tough job, but someone has to do it
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:58 AM
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