Picking the right Headers??
01-17-2011, 10:56 AM
#22
speed'n
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
Drive to san antonio and ill trade you my LTs for your shorties if you get em lol. If i was going to get shorties it would either be the FRPP shorties or the JBA shorties.
And pypes headers are not that bad.. I have stage 8 bolts on mine and all I had to do was adjust the steering shaft a little. WELL worth the 280 bucks I spent on the new.
And Kugz...you actually probably need 24l injectors. Your more than likely pushing your 19lbers to 100% duty cycle..
And pypes headers are not that bad.. I have stage 8 bolts on mine and all I had to do was adjust the steering shaft a little. WELL worth the 280 bucks I spent on the new.
And Kugz...you actually probably need 24l injectors. Your more than likely pushing your 19lbers to 100% duty cycle..
you stock tune, injectors, and fuel regulator determines how much fuel goes into your engine. you wont gain any mpgs dumping more fuel lol and if you wanna dump more fuel you better have the air coming in. my car is cammed with lts and im still on my 19lb injectors. no need for more
Overall I have my suspension imo done, i got a SCT bank chip, t/b, plenum, cai, strut bar, magnaflow exhaust.
Next up are brake kit & gears. Would you say that good? I mean idk? It's just a DD so i dont need anything soo fancy.
01-17-2011, 11:04 AM
#23
it all comes down to:
what you want to accompish
your budget
ive done 99% of my mods by myself. the only thing ive put money out for is tire mounting and my tune. would you be going to a shop if you were to install headers or cams? Labor costs are a HUGE factor if your on a tight budget. there are alot of ppl on here that dont have the tools to do it themselves and its easy to buy the parts, but then a shop is gonna rape you in labor
what you want to accompish
your budget
ive done 99% of my mods by myself. the only thing ive put money out for is tire mounting and my tune. would you be going to a shop if you were to install headers or cams? Labor costs are a HUGE factor if your on a tight budget. there are alot of ppl on here that dont have the tools to do it themselves and its easy to buy the parts, but then a shop is gonna rape you in labor
01-17-2011, 11:06 AM
#24
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 681
I was saying that to lt & not shorty.
No i've read up and viewed enough I think about mid-pipes that I don't have any questions there.
Although whats the gain with lt's....beside HP? Did anyone on MF here getter better mpg? (Not that im too considered with it, but i'd be a plus).
>Really KUZGT here's what I want: Im looking for better flow of fuel or something to the engine. What should I do?
SIDENOTE: IM looking at a highflow themometer as well. Anyone have any good ones they've used before?
No i've read up and viewed enough I think about mid-pipes that I don't have any questions there.
Although whats the gain with lt's....beside HP? Did anyone on MF here getter better mpg? (Not that im too considered with it, but i'd be a plus).
>Really KUZGT here's what I want: Im looking for better flow of fuel or something to the engine. What should I do?
SIDENOTE: IM looking at a highflow themometer as well. Anyone have any good ones they've used before?
Drive to san antonio and ill trade you my LTs for your shorties if you get em lol. If i was going to get shorties it would either be the FRPP shorties or the JBA shorties.
And pypes headers are not that bad.. I have stage 8 bolts on mine and all I had to do was adjust the steering shaft a little. WELL worth the 280 bucks I spent on the new.
And Kugz...you actually probably need 24l injectors. Your more than likely pushing your 19lbers to 100% duty cycle..
And pypes headers are not that bad.. I have stage 8 bolts on mine and all I had to do was adjust the steering shaft a little. WELL worth the 280 bucks I spent on the new.
And Kugz...you actually probably need 24l injectors. Your more than likely pushing your 19lbers to 100% duty cycle..
01-17-2011, 11:09 AM
#25
speed'n
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
it all comes down to:
what you want to accompish
your budget
ive done 99% of my mods by myself. the only thing ive put money out for is tire mounting and my tune. would you be going to a shop if you were to install headers or cams? Labor costs are a HUGE factor if your on a tight budget. there are alot of ppl on here that dont have the tools to do it themselves and its easy to buy the parts, but then a shop is gonna rape you in labor
what you want to accompish
your budget
ive done 99% of my mods by myself. the only thing ive put money out for is tire mounting and my tune. would you be going to a shop if you were to install headers or cams? Labor costs are a HUGE factor if your on a tight budget. there are alot of ppl on here that dont have the tools to do it themselves and its easy to buy the parts, but then a shop is gonna rape you in labor
Im sure I could do a midpipe change myself as well as maybe headers??? (aint sure on the one). I haven't explored cams nor will be at least not with this mustang. That too much $$$ for what is worth on this DD & where Im at in my life (still in college).
01-17-2011, 11:12 AM
#26
speed'n
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
yo man what exactly are you tying to do with your car? You trying to get better gas miliage? get this in your head quick, gas costs money and you have to pay for it no matter what. so throw the idea of buying parts to save gas out the window. and you'll gain some power with LT's but nothing crazy. I dont think those are worth the price after install. after u buy headers and pay for the install you have damn near bought a used blower.
My FRPP shhorties cracked in 2 years
My FRPP shhorties cracked in 2 years
So far this thread has been some good info.
Last edited by sonicx; 01-17-2011 at 11:14 AM.
01-17-2011, 11:24 AM
#27
lol ok, i will say from first hand experience that lts suck a$$ to install! especially if your working on your back. alot of shops around here charge $400 just for install. you will most likely pay around $400 for headers and you will have to buy a new midpipe so just say $300 for midpipe, assuming all parts are new of course. your looking at $1100 for exhaust with a gain of maybe 7rwhp. where as cams are approx, $600. you also need to take in the factor that you need to get degreed, and depending on what cams you may need valve springs. so lets just say install is +/- 900. and if you could buy a used blower kit for 2k no prob and install is super easy.
soooooo....
exhaust=7rwhp for $1100
*cams=30rwhp for $1500 w/o springs $1700 w/springs
*used blower kit=80rwhp for $2000
all are estimates
*you will most def need to be retuned.
soooooo....
exhaust=7rwhp for $1100
*cams=30rwhp for $1500 w/o springs $1700 w/springs
*used blower kit=80rwhp for $2000
all are estimates
*you will most def need to be retuned.
01-17-2011, 11:26 AM
#28
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,551
Im doing a 5.4 swap(eventually) and you cant fit a lot of LTs with the 5.4. If I could do it all over again I would have probably went with shorties anyways, simply for the fact that I can find more midpipes with cats on them that are better made. I think anything you gain from LTs over shorties will be made up with gears. When I had my 4.10s put in I didnt have LTs yet and I still hung with full bolt on cars that had 3.73s... Bolt ons IMO are a complete waste of money on a 2v.
the only things you need are gears, tires, decent suspension, good midpipe and the catback of your choice and a tune....then go into the h/c/i. I would never buy a 400 accufab plenum combo, wasted money on a CAI(even though i went back to stock because it looks better and works the same) or buy pulleys or anything like that.
Yea all the bolt ons add up, but for the money you spend for 15 hp, you can have a nice set of cams installed or a used blower, or a nitrous setup.
01-17-2011, 12:41 PM
#29
speed'n
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
lol ok, i will say from first hand experience that lts suck a$$ to install! especially if your working on your back. alot of shops around here charge $400 just for install. you will most likely pay around $400 for headers and you will have to buy a new midpipe so just say $300 for midpipe, assuming all parts are new of course. your looking at $1100 for exhaust with a gain of maybe 7rwhp. where as cams are approx, $600. you also need to take in the factor that you need to get degreed, and depending on what cams you may need valve springs. so lets just say install is +/- 900. and if you could buy a used blower kit for 2k no prob and install is super easy.
soooooo....
exhaust=7rwhp for $1100
*cams=30rwhp for $1500 w/o springs $1700 w/springs
*used blower kit=80rwhp for $2000
all are estimates
*you will most def need to be retuned.
soooooo....
exhaust=7rwhp for $1100
*cams=30rwhp for $1500 w/o springs $1700 w/springs
*used blower kit=80rwhp for $2000
all are estimates
*you will most def need to be retuned.
Ill have some planning todo but this thread was great food for thought. lol
if after gears and brakes: Spend more on this car or save it towards another mustang pref. 4v or a new 5.0 is a choice ill be thinking about.
Im doing a 5.4 swap(eventually) and you cant fit a lot of LTs with the 5.4. If I could do it all over again I would have probably went with shorties anyways, simply for the fact that I can find more midpipes with cats on them that are better made. I think anything you gain from LTs over shorties will be made up with gears. When I had my 4.10s put in I didnt have LTs yet and I still hung with full bolt on cars that had 3.73s... Bolt ons IMO are a complete waste of money on a 2v.
the only things you need are gears, tires, decent suspension, good midpipe and the catback of your choice and a tune....then go into the h/c/i. I would never buy a 400 accufab plenum combo, wasted money on a CAI(even though i went back to stock because it looks better and works the same) or buy pulleys or anything like that.
Yea all the bolt ons add up, but for the money you spend for 15 hp, you can have a nice set of cams installed or a used blower, or a nitrous setup.
the only things you need are gears, tires, decent suspension, good midpipe and the catback of your choice and a tune....then go into the h/c/i. I would never buy a 400 accufab plenum combo, wasted money on a CAI(even though i went back to stock because it looks better and works the same) or buy pulleys or anything like that.
Yea all the bolt ons add up, but for the money you spend for 15 hp, you can have a nice set of cams installed or a used blower, or a nitrous setup.
When I get my next car which won't been a DD but a wkend car. Ill skip all the small stuff and go straight to gears, cams, blower, exhaust. 
PS: I don't want to make another gear thread just for a simple question. But here it goes: I was leaning towards 4.10's w/ auto? From all the threads and what i've see you guys say it's better than 3.73's. What would have differently if I put 3.73's into a auto? I'm aware that the mpg aren't different between the two. Is one just worse on top speed than the other or what??