Battery Relocation
02-05-2011, 06:47 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KS
Posts: 555
I just bought the UPR kit and it was way cheaper than what you had above. Switch, box, and cables was like $175. I plan on doing exactly as Jayc mounting the switch in the tag.
Does anybody have a good explanation why people put it on the right side? I am sure it is to offset some of the driver weight on the left, but the natural twist puts more pressure on the right side anyway.
Does anybody have a good explanation why people put it on the right side? I am sure it is to offset some of the driver weight on the left, but the natural twist puts more pressure on the right side anyway.
02-06-2011, 08:54 AM
#13
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,860
I ran the cables to the original locations. The pos cable went to the distribution block as did the OEM and the ground runs to the mounting point near the radiator. I also ran a ground from the battery to the real frame rail. You can't have to many grounds you know. No pics and it's gotta thaw out a bit before I can get u any 
02-06-2011, 10:02 AM
#14
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,236
I wish I could wait for it to thaw out. I can't wait to get another vehicle so I don't have to drive the stang all the time. And JayRod, I did end up getting the UPR kit. How bad is lowering the tank to get to the bottom bolts?
02-06-2011, 04:25 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 1,481
The way everything loads and torques, the right wheel tends to be the one losing traction first. Weight over that wheel just helps to plant it a little better. There is no downside to getting it off the front of the car and moving to anywhere in the rear, but the right side may be the best redistribution of the weight.
02-06-2011, 11:01 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,795
i bought the steeda kit...... no where near enough power cable. have to go buy more so i can wire it up similar to how jayc did
as for the front here i got a adapter at home depot and connected the power cable to the stock one (really its supposed to go to the starter) but for now thats how i did it
batt on right side
on/off in trunk lock (MAJOR PITA) getting that biatch out ended up spider crackin my paint a little on the outside. had to cut shiat all out of the way for it to fit. juat a pain but i think it was worth it...
as for the front here i got a adapter at home depot and connected the power cable to the stock one (really its supposed to go to the starter) but for now thats how i did it
batt on right side
on/off in trunk lock (MAJOR PITA) getting that biatch out ended up spider crackin my paint a little on the outside. had to cut shiat all out of the way for it to fit. juat a pain but i think it was worth it...
02-07-2011, 08:49 PM
#18
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 1,481
Yes, I ran mine to the starter and then the ground to a good location on the frame below the trunk area. I left the stock wires in place, but insulated the ends and tied them up nice for asthetics. This would allow for me to drop a battery into the stock location quicly if I wanted to do so.
Hmmm... I would not seriously modify my plate, unless you could do it such that none of the lettering was obstructed. I would just space my plate as needed to cover the switch behind it. At the track, I woul djust remove the plate to grant the required access.
Hmmm... I would not seriously modify my plate, unless you could do it such that none of the lettering was obstructed. I would just space my plate as needed to cover the switch behind it. At the track, I woul djust remove the plate to grant the required access.