BAttitude7689

1998 Mustang GT, with 03 PI motor swap

I do have under-drive pulleys (Steeda)
I have a BRAND NEW PA Performance Alternator
BRAND NEW BATTERY
I do have a 4channel amp pushing door speakers and 2channel amp for (1) 10" Kicker

Here is my issue my alternator was going bad from a big draw from the stereo system,Which every so often I had the RED battery light come on intermittently I got that taken care of , then i had purchased a new alternator.

Thought I had cured the problem and but now months later, the damn battery indicator light comes on, i believe it happens more when I am on the highway but my battery gauge looks good, I have even did a test on the charging system at like advanced auto to check the battery,alt,starter and the whole system......



Any ideas or known problems that I need to know about....there was a long period of time that I had the UDP and the AMPS and everything was good! The original problem was i could not leave the car to sit 3 days without having a dead battery so,we found a high draw in the stock amps that came with the car, so i ripped the amps out and fixed that problem and now I never have issues starting the car just while driving that RED BATTERY LIGHT is very annoying

Moonshine

It just is a low voltage signal. Nothing out of the ordinary with udp's and an amp.

ei8ball

I had the same issue when I disconnected the negative terminal for a little bit than put it back on. Made sure everything was tight, and still got the batttery light. Would stay on for a minute, than goto flashing every once in a while, mainly on highway. I took it to autozone and they checked the alternator and battery but found no issues. It did it for another day and I disconnected the cable again when I was messing with the spark plugs and fuel rail. Once I reconnected it, I have had no issues with that light since (knock on wood). I would say you might wanna check the connections at the battery to make sure their tight, and maybe clean the terminals and connectors as well. Would definitely be the cheapest solution.

lizzyfan

PA alts are well known to not handle high revs (over 5k) and crap out. i went through two of them before I dumped theirs and went with an Advanced Auto alt, zero problems!!
Do a Google on PA alt issues

lizzyfan

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...lternator.html

Derf00

Alt's output is not high enough at high RPM (or it's crapping out at high RPM) to blip that battery light. Is it during WOT or just random?

Try installing OEM size pullies and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then you nkow your problem, if not...dunno.

kugzgt

hmmm i have stock pulleys and at the track when i get really high in rpm my batt light comes on

Derf00

Well the other thought I just had was from my knowledge of windmills. They have a governer at higher RPMs to keep the generator from over charging or outputting more than the safe rated amount. The govern doesn't slow down the windmill but it deactivates the current circuit so no electricity is produced.

Don't know if the aftermarket alt has this to protect it from outputing a higher voltage/amperate than its safely rated for. If the Voltage regulator is cutting the current, that would cause the battery light to flicker too.

For me when I had the problem it was the alternator. My car was a 2000 V6 though with pretty much everything stock at the time.

You could test out that theory by connecting a volt ohm meter that you can see inside the car and go drive. If you see the battery light flicker and the voltage is above 14.0 or 14.4 then you know it's purposly cutting the voltage to keep from frying your electricals.

BAttitude7689

it used to do it more during WOT but it has even came on just driving around town as well, i can never find a pattern too it.....when it first happen it wasn't often then when one day it just stayed on for about week, then happened on and off... and now every once in awhile it starts to trigger and the light comes on....

BAttitude7689

if i called them and they ask me to send it back...that kinda sucks!? i mean its my daily driver and i live in FL so there will be a bit of turn around time...do you think there would be away for them to help me out with that? or if i mention that i know there is problems with there alt at high RPMS not producing and just get the thing refunded and because i dont want a headache n have any issues


If i get another alt, what are some good high out alt since i do have a stereo systems with amps and also the UDP? or is really the advanced auto one good lol i just dont wanna have an issue i know im not doing high performance stereo but i just want something to last n be a good product and be able to with stand with what i have