ctgreddy

a stalled/bolt on/supercharged car will be very quick. 11's for sure if you can hook. I just started building another 4.6 to drop in this winter so i can throw on a supercharger and aim for 500ish safely.

SVTeeshirt

Yeah, no doubt you can improve but be aware that when these other guys tell you the times their cars are running may be at sea level. Density Altitude corrected you're running 14.887 @ 93.961 MPHish at sea level.... Just threw that in there because i feel like a lot of guys are just thinking you flat out can't drive. In reality your altitude adds more than half a second.

and to answer, with your power, no sticky tires and a tuner will NOT take off a full second, not even close.

I reccomend.

Stall converter
4.10 gears
sticky tires
tune
suspension.

ctgreddy

^he's right. i think my track is almost 1000' above sea level. that's nothing compared to your 3000+. just drive down to my track and run that'll be a good mod for you lol.

TRUEBLUE3934

You can go to dragtimes.com and use the DA calculator to adjust your times for the weather and altitude for better reference. The DA was one of your issues keeping you from better times.

Yes, for an auto car the tuner can make a pretty nice difference. Using higher octane fuel and increased timing will help a little also.

GEARS are the ticket for making the car quicker from a standstill. If you want quick from light to light, you might want 4.30 gears (a little short for me, but the auto makes them more liveable). I would use 4.10s myself.

Nitto555R DRs are also a nice way to improve your light to light performance.

I would start there and see how that works for you.
GOOD LUCK!

SVTeeshirt

^ idk from personal experience but i've been told the NT05Rs hook better than 555Rs.

ctgreddy

i've heard the same, however for the op the 555r's will be plenty. i have 275 555r's and after a small burnout they hook just fine for me and I'm stalled, so a stock converter/gear car prolly doesn't even need dr's yet.

TRUEBLUE3934

I think you are right about that. I guess I was just thinking in terms of Nittos vs any other DRs for the better life expectency. Certainly better DRs on the market, but most wear out quite a bit quicker too.

Tommy079

Hey I just want to say thank you to all of you for your outstanding input. First according to dragtimes.com my adjusted elevation would put me at:

Stock and Mildly Modified Naturally Aspirated Engines
14.198 @ 98.241 MPH

Those are pleasing numbers for an initial stock run. I'd have been happy with numbers like that for my stock run.

SVTeeshirt - First thanks for the mod list. I think that's perfect. But I need some specifics on a few of them.

Stall converter - Which one do you recommend for a stock automatic GT? (that will eventually have 4.10's)

4.10 gears- Pretty sure I'm gonna go FRPP, I was told I should also buy a LOK rebuild kit and have that installed at the same time as the gears ( http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-88-traclok-kit.html )

sticky tires- Nitto 05R is what I've been told on here all along

tune- gonna probably do the SCT X3 from american muscle with Bama tunes for life.

suspension- This is the other one. What do you reccommend? I already put some heavy duty Bilstein rear shocks on. And eventually I'll do the front with the same Bilstein HD struts. I'm going to get a full length subframe connector, but other than that I'm not sure. I don't want to lower too much and end up with a harsh ride so I'm unsure about lowering springs. What do you suggest?

ctgreddy

for a converter the only one i'd recommend is a dirty dog 10". that's what i have, and am very pleased with it. it's still VERY dd friendly, (my mustang is my only car so something i could dd was a must).

you've got the right idea for gears and clutch packs. frpp are the best ones imo.

as far as sticky tires, i'd go with either 555r's or the m/t et streets. the nt05r's wear incredibly fast. my buddy bought a set and after 5k miles they were almost bald. i have about 7k on my 555r's and they're about 60% tread. also for an auto car it's easier to launch so a 555r will be plenty for you.

tune, i have a delta force tuner, but only because i got it hella cheap, if i had to pay full price i'd do the sct tuner with bama tunes, i've heard great things about them.

and for suspension, well that's tricky. if you want good track times then keep your stock springs, get some teamz control arms and an air bag for the right rear spring, then unhook your front roll bar before you go to the track. on my car since i drive it so much i went with che lower control arms and kept my stock uppers, teamz ca's(and every other solid control arm) is pretty noisy over bumps which is why i went with the che's.

teej281

Down where I ran at mustang week, with my times corrected, it shows that I should be running 14.076 @ 98.538 MPH and I actually ran a 14.59 @ 95mph. The track temp that day was 145*. There is a lot more to drag racing than the actual car. You have ambient temps, track temp, track prep, height above sea level. So much goes into it. And here's a mods list for my car to get my time...

JLT CAI
Magnaflow Catted X
Corsa mufflers in Bassani piping
Cobra IRS with solid bushings and mounts
Maximum Motorsports Auto-x coilovers with Bilstein HD's(325lb/525lb f/r respectively)
Stock 3.55 Cobra gears
18x10.5 wheels with 335/30-18 R-compound auto-x tires(stiff sidewall)
4100lb race weight(with me, all my cleaning junk and a cooler full of waters and haterade, I mean gatorade)

Cut a 2.1 60' leaving off idle, shifting at 5200rpm without lifting. Car makes about 225rwhp. Next time I go to the track, it will be with 26x11.5x17 ET Street bias-plys on there and probably a new clutch. Rev it up and dump the clutch and see what happens. Got a spare set of half shafts now so just dump and let her eat. If she decides she wants to spit a half shaft, throw it on the trailer and haul her home to put one back in.