Lifter tick started during road trip
09-05-2011, 07:47 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 395
Lifter tick started during road trip
Drove to Vegas for the weekend and while there It started ticking pretty loudly during moderate load from 2500+, but during free rev and very light load it didnt tick or very little. It is full of Royal Purple and only has about 4k on it. I have a aftermarket oil pressure gauge and it dosent seem to be building quite as much. 50-60 currently vs 70-85 normally. Kinda makes me worry the oil pump is going out. 105K on the motor. The motor is kinda carboned up on the inside, Is it possible something is clogging the oil filter/oil pump? Its a k&n filter.
09-06-2011, 09:08 AM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 395
I was just sayin that with the lifter tick i also have lower oil pressure, not that the lifter was causing it. Im guna change the oil and see if i get lucky and the filter is somehow clogged.
09-06-2011, 11:07 AM
#4
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
What brand filter did you use? On my Miatas using a Fram filter lost 10 to 15 psi oil pressure at the engine oil galleys--absolute crap...
09-07-2011, 05:41 PM
#6
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
"Lifters" (actually HLAs, Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, on our cars--no lifters) generally tick for one of two reasons--they are sticking or collapsing.
Sticking is most often caused by a build up of gum and varnish which can be just from age, but is often because of the oil not being changed as frequently as it should--by a whole bunch. One of the engine flush snake-oil products like Rislone will sometimes free them up, however a side effect of that can be that other things being held in place and/or sealed by the build-up make start being noisy or start leaking.
In the initial stages of the problem sticking lifters or HLAs tend to be noisy at mid to higher rpms where their sluggish action creates excessive valve train clatter because the cannot unload fast enough.
Collapsed adjusters are most often just worn, this can be from high mileage or insufficient lubrication. Extended oil change intervals, but not so extended as to cause varnish/sludge accumulation, can cause this as the anti-wear additives in the oil break down and things with not much bearing surface experience accelerated wear.
Initially, collapsing lifters/HLAs tend to be noisier at idle and lower revs where they have more time being loaded to collapse and cause excessive clatter.
A higher viscosity motor oil and/or snake-oil products like STP Oil Treatment can sometimes quiet them down.
[oil_rant comment="Sorry 'bout this, I had a similar discussion with a fellow just this PM"]
A lot of people think I am "old fashioned" (I am) and "nuts" (OK, that's true too) for changing the oil in our vehicles every 2500 to 3000 miles, and not running synthetic, and running 10W-40 in the Mustang (since I got it with 30k miles, now at 110k) and 20W-50 in the wife's Highlander (185k) and my Burgman 400.
However having done this for well over 40 years, and having typically run vehicles we have owned to 200k+ miles (the record goes to my wife's '89 Celica GT that had 366k miles when we traded it in), I find that it works for me.
Here in Florida I would not run 5W-20 in a go-kart, and sure as heck would not run it in a car or bike. As to synthetic it is important to understand that is just the base stock; 99.44% of the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives are the same in both dino and synthetic base motor oils--and they are the components that break down first.
I do not care to argue any of this with anyone (particularly Amsoilists) so don't bother--here's a good read about motor oil history and why 5W-20 oil sucks.
[/oil_rant]
Sticking is most often caused by a build up of gum and varnish which can be just from age, but is often because of the oil not being changed as frequently as it should--by a whole bunch. One of the engine flush snake-oil products like Rislone will sometimes free them up, however a side effect of that can be that other things being held in place and/or sealed by the build-up make start being noisy or start leaking.
In the initial stages of the problem sticking lifters or HLAs tend to be noisy at mid to higher rpms where their sluggish action creates excessive valve train clatter because the cannot unload fast enough.
Collapsed adjusters are most often just worn, this can be from high mileage or insufficient lubrication. Extended oil change intervals, but not so extended as to cause varnish/sludge accumulation, can cause this as the anti-wear additives in the oil break down and things with not much bearing surface experience accelerated wear.
Initially, collapsing lifters/HLAs tend to be noisier at idle and lower revs where they have more time being loaded to collapse and cause excessive clatter.
A higher viscosity motor oil and/or snake-oil products like STP Oil Treatment can sometimes quiet them down.
[oil_rant comment="Sorry 'bout this, I had a similar discussion with a fellow just this PM"]
A lot of people think I am "old fashioned" (I am) and "nuts" (OK, that's true too) for changing the oil in our vehicles every 2500 to 3000 miles, and not running synthetic, and running 10W-40 in the Mustang (since I got it with 30k miles, now at 110k) and 20W-50 in the wife's Highlander (185k) and my Burgman 400.
However having done this for well over 40 years, and having typically run vehicles we have owned to 200k+ miles (the record goes to my wife's '89 Celica GT that had 366k miles when we traded it in), I find that it works for me.
Here in Florida I would not run 5W-20 in a go-kart, and sure as heck would not run it in a car or bike. As to synthetic it is important to understand that is just the base stock; 99.44% of the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives are the same in both dino and synthetic base motor oils--and they are the components that break down first.
I do not care to argue any of this with anyone (particularly Amsoilists) so don't bother--here's a good read about motor oil history and why 5W-20 oil sucks.
[/oil_rant]
09-07-2011, 09:09 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 395
Woo go Amsoil!!!! anyways I'm going to run a 10w-30 and try some additive. But its time to get serous about a new motor. So if itll hold up for another 2 months then new motor will just go in.
09-07-2011, 09:38 PM
#8
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
If over 75k you may want to try Valvoline MaxLife in either 10W-40 or 20W-50 (where do you live?). The '89 Celica I spoke of earlier lived on for 20W-50 MaxLife for the last 250k miles we owned it--the Highlander has been on it since we got it with 85k miles.
