Car drops to 0 rpm
09-14-2011, 07:43 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 22
Car drops to 0 rpm
The car starts fine and rpms are around 700 when I turn on my car but when I put the car in drive the rpms will start dropping slowing until it gets to zero. I start drivng and it goes back to regular operating rpms. The other problem is that when I do a complete stop, the rpms starting dropping until they get to zero if I leave my foot on the brakes. The car stalls a little, almost nothing, when I accelerate.
I also forgot that I got a CEL and the code was P1131.
Can anyone help me?
I also forgot that I got a CEL and the code was P1131.
Can anyone help me?
09-14-2011, 07:45 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 3,733
09-15-2011, 08:30 AM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 677
OP, I have my old one, I'll sell it to you cheap, you just pay for shipping. It still works, I just bought a new one by accident because I said the wrong part at the store and then I decided I would just throw it on my car.
09-15-2011, 02:11 PM
#6
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Replace it¹...
You can also test it with a multi-meter.
Unplug it and check the resistance across the two terminals on the IAC, it should be between 6Ω and 13Ω. If it's more then coil is open. If less then it's shorted--replace the IAC.
Next check the resistance between each terminal and the IAC body--it should be >10kΩ on each--if not the coil is shorted to the IAC body.--replace the IAC.
If the resistances check out, then with the key on and engine off check the voltage at the IAC harness connector; it should be >10.5V. If it isn't then there's a open or bad circuit someplace between the PCM and the IAC--or it is remotely possible that the PCM driver for the IAC is bad and you need as new PCM. This is a very remote possibility.
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¹ - What is it about "cannot be adjusted and cannot be cleaned" that is such a difficult concept to grasp?
You can also test it with a multi-meter.
Unplug it and check the resistance across the two terminals on the IAC, it should be between 6Ω and 13Ω. If it's more then coil is open. If less then it's shorted--replace the IAC.
Next check the resistance between each terminal and the IAC body--it should be >10kΩ on each--if not the coil is shorted to the IAC body.--replace the IAC.
If the resistances check out, then with the key on and engine off check the voltage at the IAC harness connector; it should be >10.5V. If it isn't then there's a open or bad circuit someplace between the PCM and the IAC--or it is remotely possible that the PCM driver for the IAC is bad and you need as new PCM. This is a very remote possibility.
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¹ - What is it about "cannot be adjusted and cannot be cleaned" that is such a difficult concept to grasp?
Last edited by cliffyk; 09-15-2011 at 02:15 PM.
09-15-2011, 04:00 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 22
Two terminals on the iac gave a resistance of 11.9 ohms
Iac harness connector put 12.33v
Resistance between each terminal and the iac body I didn't understand or know how to do.
The car has good power and all that good stuff. The only thing is that the rpms drop slowly when I'm at a complete stop. Once I push the gas Everything goes back to normal.
Iac harness connector put 12.33v
Resistance between each terminal and the iac body I didn't understand or know how to do.
The car has good power and all that good stuff. The only thing is that the rpms drop slowly when I'm at a complete stop. Once I push the gas Everything goes back to normal.
09-15-2011, 04:32 PM
#9
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Has the TB stop screw (often incorrectly referred to as the idle adjustment screw) ever been messed around with?
Here's the process to set it properly...
Resistance from each terminal the the IAC body is just as it sounds, measure the resistance between each terminal (one at a time) and the valve's aluminum body-it checks to make sure the solenoid coil is not shorted to the IAC casting....
Here's the process to set it properly...
Resistance from each terminal the the IAC body is just as it sounds, measure the resistance between each terminal (one at a time) and the valve's aluminum body-it checks to make sure the solenoid coil is not shorted to the IAC casting....
Last edited by cliffyk; 09-15-2011 at 04:34 PM.
09-15-2011, 05:44 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California
Posts: 22
From the harness connector I got:
.13 on the 20k ohms option when I probed the red wire and the valves body.
3.31 on the 20k ohms option when I tested the the white wire and the valves body.
I tried to test the other two connections that are on the IAC but when I probed them with the body of the valve they gave nothing. Maybe I wasn't suppose to probe those.
.13 on the 20k ohms option when I probed the red wire and the valves body.
3.31 on the 20k ohms option when I tested the the white wire and the valves body.
I tried to test the other two connections that are on the IAC but when I probed them with the body of the valve they gave nothing. Maybe I wasn't suppose to probe those.