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Finally have a master plan for the car - 2000 Mustang GT

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Old 10-21-2011, 12:09 PM   #21
Harryman2002
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Why did you buy a black fuel door when your car is already black?
The 99-01 models came without a hood scoop stock but you can buy them online, I think late model restoration has them but I'm not positive.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:31 PM   #22
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Why did you buy a black fuel door when your car is already black?
Lol, there is a little difference:
Click the image to open in full size.

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Originally Posted by Harryman2002 View Post
The 99-01 models came without a hood scoop stock but you can buy them online, I think late model restoration has them but I'm not positive.
Ugh, Looks like I'm customizing that hood scoop insert. I can't see myself buying the hood scoop (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ang-Hood-Scoop) just to fit that billet piece in there. Plus it'll add drag (although prob negligible).
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #23
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Any opinions on these:
"... - Eibach Anti Roll bar (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...4-mustang.html) Not sure if I'm going to tell a difference with this. Is it worth the money?
A roll-bars function is to address understeer/oversteer issues, as it is a tuning device. Does your car have either of these issues? If it does not, or you don't know... don't get a new sway bar

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Old 10-24-2011, 08:40 AM   #24
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A roll-bars function is to address understeer/oversteer issues, as it is a tuning device. Does your car have either of these issues? If it does not, or you don't know... don't get a new sway bar

Jazzer
Nope! I've been updating the 1st post, to keep as a reminder of my decisions, and the stabilizer bar has been removed. Also added some brake parts, but I'm pretty limited with going any bigger because of my winter tires (They JUST clear the calipers now). Jazzer, how much is brake fade a concern at an average autocross events with the HPS pads?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:31 AM   #25
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Brake fade is not an issue at AX and the mods found in my Brakes Upgrade thead are WAY more than a street car needs. Your car is a '00 and likely the brake fluid has not been changed... am I right? The pads are a maintanence issue and to replace the OEM rubber lines, one needs to flush the system anyway.

Pads, fluid and SS lines will take you a HUGE distance between your current brakes and up to a hair below* what a BB kit would provide at FAR less $$$

Jazzer

*just a bit of improved cooling
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:44 AM   #26
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Brake fade is not an issue at AX and the mods found in my Brakes Upgrade thead are WAY more than a street car needs. Your car is a '00 and likely the brake fluid has not been changed... am I right? The pads are a maintanence issue and to replace the OEM rubber lines, one needs to flush the system anyway.

Pads, fluid and SS lines will take you a HUGE distance between your current brakes and up to a hair below* what a BB kit would provide at FAR less $$$

Jazzer

*just a bit of improved cooling
That's what I was hoping, considering most AX runs are around 60-120 secs, correct? I have Wagner ceramic brake pads on there now, have you ever used them before?

I'll definitely will be draining the fluid when I do the pads next time, and upgrading to the DOT 5.1 fluid.
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:32 PM   #27
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**Updated 11/17/11**

Summer 2012 (Rear End):

Gears
- FRPP 3.73 Gears (http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-373-9904gt.html)
- FRPP 31 Spline LSD w/ Carbon Discs (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...-Clutch-Disks#)
- Read end install kit (http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearendrebuild.html)
- Royal Purple Gear Oil 75w140 (http://www.americanmuscle.com/royalp...0-gearoil.html)

Axle Upgrade - 31 Spline
- Moser 8.8 Axles w/ Studs - 31 Spline 5 Lug (http://www.americanmuscle.com/moser-...axle-9904.html)
- FRPP 8.8" Rear Pinion Flange (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...-Pinion-Flange)
- Moser Rear Differential Bearing Cap Stud Kit (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...g-Cap-Stud-Kit)

To be installed at a shop which I'm still looking for in the Albany area for hopefully around $400.
Getting closer to a finalized list of upgrades (just updated).

Jazzer, think these rear end upgrades will have any benefit/negative effects on the handling? I can see a slight increase in rotational mass, and stiffer axles, but I don't see that helping/hurting much in the turns (handling a future increase in HP, that's another story).

Anything else you'd add/remove from my "wish list" on page 1?
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:31 PM   #28
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Should I be looking at a bump steer kit when using the coil-overs? (First page updated as well)
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:54 AM   #29
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Something similar to this steeda kit (there is a comp engineering one as well):

http://www.americanmuscle.com/stbukit94b.html

Any major benefit to adding the ball joint kit as well?:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:11 PM   #30
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When upgrading to the 31 spline axle, I won't need to switch out my alum drive-shaft for a 31 spline DS will I? (http://www.americanmuscle.com/96gtand96coa.html)
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:37 PM   #31
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to answer your question about the torque arm, if you read MM's explanation, they say that their TA's are rated based on tests with stickies and dropping the clutch at redline, ie the roughest and most strenuous condition a torque arm will probably ever experience (which you personally should probably never ever do). also remember that they are rated at torque, not hp. i think you could get away fine with a standard duty torque arm even with a centri setup, just don't go overboard with further mods, and don't dump the clutch at full rev. as a disclaimer, i have not yet purchased my TA, but will be soon. i have done tons of research, but have no personal experience, so take my advice for what its worth.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:01 AM   #32
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I agree with you, and am leaning towards the STD/Race torque arm as well. Just made me nervous looking at the chart on MM (T-45 transmission, 3.73 gears) and only seeing 330 RWT. Looking at another website (not MM, http://www.stangmods.com/Maximum-Mot...ms-p/01155.htm) it lists torque at 330-590ft-lbs.

Also FYI, it looks like MM is having a sale on the "race cross-member" version of the TA, which I believe just has better access to the exhaust midpipe area and a touch stiffer:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=231

Two other reasons I'm leaning towards the STD TA:
1. I have a tuner set for a clutch drop of no more then 3000RPMs
2. I don't run anything stickier than a high performance summer tire.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:56 PM   #33
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Just to clarify... it is not HP or even torque that breaks parts.... it is grip!

Now, stands to reason, that one will want grip to put power to the ground, but if one is not doing clutch dumps, all that beefing of axles may not be necessary. It won't hurt anything, but may not need that strength for AX or even open-track use. In regards to tires, I think it is silly to NOT run a very grippy tire, if you are adding, or plan to add, powa. Without grip, you cannot utilize the power, so why have it?

Bumpsteer ~ If you lower your car beyond a modest amount, it is a nice thing to do. If you go with a new "K", such as an MM or Griggs, you really need one, due to geometry changes anyway.

Ball joints ~ I have not researched the 2X ones, but I think they allow a drop in the car of 1"...? but aren't as detrimental to geometry up front.

Update me on your ULTIMATE goal, as I don't appear to have asked?

Jazzer
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
Just to clarify... it is not HP or even torque that breaks parts.... it is grip!

Now, stands to reason, that one will want grip to put power to the ground, but if one is not doing clutch dumps, all that beefing of axles may not be necessary. It won't hurt anything, but may not need that strength for AX or even open-track use. In regards to tires, I think it is silly to NOT run a very grippy tire, if you are adding, or plan to add, powa. Without grip, you cannot utilize the power, so why have it?

Bumpsteer ~ If you lower your car beyond a modest amount, it is a nice thing to do. If you go with a new "K", such as an MM or Griggs, you really need one, due to geometry changes anyway.

Ball joints ~ I have not researched the 2X ones, but I think they allow a drop in the car of 1"...? but aren't as detrimental to geometry up front.

Update me on your ULTIMATE goal, as I don't appear to have asked?

Jazzer
Ultimate goal is a very good AX/Open track car, that will be able to handle many launches (3k RPM clutch dumps) if I take it to the 1/4 mile track. The tires will be the same/similar to the Sumi HTR Z III's we discussed before, but if possible, the ability to switch to slicks in the future would be nice (but not necessary).

This is the plan for a brand new racing complex 20 mins from my house , to give you an idea of what I'm preparing for:

Click the image to open in full size.

In addition, here is the Watkins Glen track about an hour south of me. They have a HPDE a couple times a year (typically 2-2.5hrs of track time, 4 hrs classroom time), with a ride along professional instructor. It may be the best "mod" I ever do for $275:

Click the image to open in full size.

Long term plans include TA & PHB & S/C, but these are years away (especially the S/C). I'm taking them into account now (for things such as gear selection), to try and minimize/eliminate having to swap out parts I just installed.

The bumpsteer kit sounds like a good investment, I'm assuming the MM coilover setup will approach a 2" drop at times? What does bumpsteer feel like specifically (I know what understeer and oversteer feel like)?

I think I'll replace the ball joints if the OEM ones break, I'm not too concerned with lowering the car below what the COs would do.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:26 PM   #35
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When upgrading to the 31 spline axle, I won't need to switch out my alum drive-shaft for a 31 spline DS will I? (http://www.americanmuscle.com/96gtand96coa.html)
I'm assuming my 2000 GT currently has a 28 spline Alum DS (installed by PO so I'm not 100% sure what it is).
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:30 AM   #36
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Your car did not come with an alum. DS, so if you got one, a previous owner installed it. It is fine and will not be an issue with your power numbers over time, so get one if want one and don't already have it!

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Old 12-01-2011, 09:56 AM   #37
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Your car did not come with an alum. DS, so if you got one, a previous owner installed it. It is fine and will not be an issue with your power numbers over time, so get one if want one and don't already have it!

Jazzer
It's an aftermarket DS:

Click the image to open in full size.

I'm wondering if I'll need to swap it out when I do the rear end switch from 28 to 31 spline. Does the U-joint, or whatever is connecting the DS to the rear differential, work with different numbered splines. I have a feeling yes, because the gears and pinions that I'm buying do not specify spline #'s, but I want to make sure before tearing it apart.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:04 PM   #38
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I'm wondering if I'll need to swap it out when I do the rear end switch from 28 to 31 spline. Does the U-joint, or whatever is connecting the DS to the rear differential, work with different numbered splines. I have a feeling yes, because the gears and pinions that I'm buying do not specify spline #'s, but I want to make sure before tearing it apart.
Just as an FYI to everyone, the stock driveshaft (or aluminum for that matter) on the 96-04 GTs all have the 31 spline design. It replaced the 28 spline design on the 79-95 GTs. The driveshaft spline design is independent of the axle spline design.
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Last edited by Syracuse315; 12-05-2011 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Updating info
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:22 PM   #39
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I think I'll replace the ball joints if the OEM ones break, I'm not too concerned with lowering the car below what the COs would do.
I've changed my mind on the ball joints. More than lowering, they seem to help a lot with body roll. When doing the CO/Bumpsteer Kit install, I will have easy access to the area so I think I'll do it as a "piece of mind" install.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #40
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did you order the PHB & TA yet? The racing one is on sale again today. I opted to go with the standard bc I didn't want to have to modify the exhaust and whatnot. Seemed like a whole lot of additional work for only a slightly stronger crossmember..
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