trailor

to answer your question about the torque arm, if you read MM's explanation, they say that their TA's are rated based on tests with stickies and dropping the clutch at redline, ie the roughest and most strenuous condition a torque arm will probably ever experience (which you personally should probably never ever do). also remember that they are rated at torque, not hp. i think you could get away fine with a standard duty torque arm even with a centri setup, just don't go overboard with further mods, and don't dump the clutch at full rev. as a disclaimer, i have not yet purchased my TA, but will be soon. i have done tons of research, but have no personal experience, so take my advice for what its worth.

Syracuse315

I agree with you, and am leaning towards the STD/Race torque arm as well. Just made me nervous looking at the chart on MM (T-45 transmission, 3.73 gears) and only seeing 330 RWT. Looking at another website (not MM, http://www.stangmods.com/Maximum-Mot...ms-p/01155.htm) it lists torque at 330-590ft-lbs.

Also FYI, it looks like MM is having a sale on the "race cross-member" version of the TA, which I believe just has better access to the exhaust midpipe area and a touch stiffer:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=231

Two other reasons I'm leaning towards the STD TA:
1. I have a tuner set for a clutch drop of no more then 3000RPMs
2. I don't run anything stickier than a high performance summer tire.

Jazzer The Cat

Just to clarify... it is not HP or even torque that breaks parts.... it is grip!

Now, stands to reason, that one will want grip to put power to the ground, but if one is not doing clutch dumps, all that beefing of axles may not be necessary. It won't hurt anything, but may not need that strength for AX or even open-track use. In regards to tires, I think it is silly to NOT run a very grippy tire, if you are adding, or plan to add, powa. Without grip, you cannot utilize the power, so why have it?

Bumpsteer ~ If you lower your car beyond a modest amount, it is a nice thing to do. If you go with a new "K", such as an MM or Griggs, you really need one, due to geometry changes anyway.

Ball joints ~ I have not researched the 2X ones, but I think they allow a drop in the car of 1"...? but aren't as detrimental to geometry up front.

Update me on your ULTIMATE goal, as I don't appear to have asked?

Jazzer

Syracuse315

Ultimate goal is a very good AX/Open track car, that will be able to handle many launches (3k RPM clutch dumps) if I take it to the 1/4 mile track. The tires will be the same/similar to the Sumi HTR Z III's we discussed before, but if possible, the ability to switch to slicks in the future would be nice (but not necessary).

This is the plan for a brand new racing complex 20 mins from my house , to give you an idea of what I'm preparing for:



In addition, here is the Watkins Glen track about an hour south of me. They have a HPDE a couple times a year (typically 2-2.5hrs of track time, 4 hrs classroom time), with a ride along professional instructor. It may be the best "mod" I ever do for $275:



Long term plans include TA & PHB & S/C, but these are years away (especially the S/C). I'm taking them into account now (for things such as gear selection), to try and minimize/eliminate having to swap out parts I just installed.

The bumpsteer kit sounds like a good investment, I'm assuming the MM coilover setup will approach a 2" drop at times? What does bumpsteer feel like specifically (I know what understeer and oversteer feel like)?

I think I'll replace the ball joints if the OEM ones break, I'm not too concerned with lowering the car below what the COs would do.

Syracuse315

I'm assuming my 2000 GT currently has a 28 spline Alum DS (installed by PO so I'm not 100% sure what it is).

Jazzer The Cat

Your car did not come with an alum. DS, so if you got one, a previous owner installed it. It is fine and will not be an issue with your power numbers over time, so get one if want one and don't already have it!

Jazzer

Syracuse315

It's an aftermarket DS:



I'm wondering if I'll need to swap it out when I do the rear end switch from 28 to 31 spline. Does the U-joint, or whatever is connecting the DS to the rear differential, work with different numbered splines. I have a feeling yes, because the gears and pinions that I'm buying do not specify spline #'s, but I want to make sure before tearing it apart.

Syracuse315

Just as an FYI to everyone, the stock driveshaft (or aluminum for that matter) on the 96-04 GTs all have the 31 spline design. It replaced the 28 spline design on the 79-95 GTs. The driveshaft spline design is independent of the axle spline design.

Syracuse315

I've changed my mind on the ball joints. More than lowering, they seem to help a lot with body roll. When doing the CO/Bumpsteer Kit install, I will have easy access to the area so I think I'll do it as a "piece of mind" install.

trailor

did you order the PHB & TA yet? The racing one is on sale again today. I opted to go with the standard bc I didn't want to have to modify the exhaust and whatnot. Seemed like a whole lot of additional work for only a slightly stronger crossmember..