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Old 11-21-2011, 10:09 PM   #11
69MustangCoupe393cid
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Cliffy, I just took a look through my hundreds of resistors and found a 2.2, 2.4 and 4.7 ohm. Would one of the 2.2 or 2.4 ohm ones work ok (to make things easier), or should I really put 2 4.7's together to get closer to that 2.3?
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:39 PM   #12
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The stock spec for the squib is 2.3Ω, there is no tolerance specified. I think either the 2.2Ω or 2.4Ω would be OK though--if too low all they'll do is trigger the warning light because the RCM will think the squib(s) are bad.

It would not hurt the check them with a sufficiently accurate Ohmmeter just to be sure...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
At its extreme it is making what you want from what you can get.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:37 PM   #13
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The stock spec for the squib is 2.3Ω, there is no tolerance specified. I think either the 2.2Ω or 2.4Ω would be OK though--if too low all they'll do is trigger the warning light because the RCM will think the squib(s) are bad.

It would not hurt the check them with a sufficiently accurate Ohmmeter just to be sure...
Will do. I'm going to try to take the car apart tomorrow if I can get off work early and maybe hit a junkyard this weekend, thanks again.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:02 PM   #14
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Well I tested the resistors with a Fluke meter and they're all dead nuts on. They're the real deal, not radio shack so I'm not surprised. Should I bother putting the 4.7's together, or will the 2.2 or 2.4 work ok? If one of them works which one would be better to use?
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Well I tested the resistors with a Fluke meter and they're all dead nuts on. They're the real deal, not radio shack so I'm not surprised. Should I bother putting the 4.7's together, or will the 2.2 or 2.4 work ok? If one of them works which one would be better to use?
They should be OK, with those values they have to be 1% or better components--rather rare actually. Purely from my perspective I'd use two 4.7Ω's in parallel and save the precision 2.2Ω and 2.4Ω resistors for when I really needed them--but then again I had to buy fifty 4.7's to get the two I needed.

So including the two I used when I got rid of the exploding steering wheel in my car, the two or three I've used in other projects, and the two I soldered together for the picture above, there should still be 43 or 44 left in the 1/4W resistor drawer.

If you are in no rush send me a "stamped self-addressed" envelope (PM me and I'll give you my address), one 1st Class stamp should do it, and I'll send you four of the 4.7s...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:05 PM   #16
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They should be OK, with those values they have to be 1% or better components--rather rare actually. Purely from my perspective I'd use two 4.7Ω's in parallel and save the precision 2.2Ω and 2.4Ω resistors for when I really needed them--but then again I had to buy fifty 4.7's to get the two I needed.

So including the two I used when I got rid of the exploding steering wheel in my car, the two or three I've used in other projects, and the two I soldered together for the picture above, there should still be 43 or 44 left in the 1/4W resistor drawer.

If you are in no rush send me a "stamped self-addressed" envelope (PM me and I'll give you my address), one 1st Class stamp should do it, and I'll send you four of the 4.7s...
Thanks Cliffy I appreciate that but I have some 4.7's of the same build quality as the others, so if I use them I'm sure they will be 2.35. You think that's best? I have more of the 2.2's and 2.4's than the 4.7's so I would rather save the 4.7's if I didn't have to use them. The resistors I have are GOLD GOLD I think that's less than 1%. I actually bought them off a fiber-optic company that was going out of business so they're the real deal for sure.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:48 PM   #17
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Found the numbers on my box using a mirror. This thing doesn't look that hard to change, I don't know why people were telling me it was hard to get to unless I'm missing something. It's in plain sight, as well as the screws and electrical plug.

Link to my WTB ad with the numbers on my box.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/want-...ol-module.html
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:55 PM   #18
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Does anyone have the passenger airbag removal instructions or know where the bolts are? Driver side is easy enough, but I'm not sure about the passenger side.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:15 PM   #19
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Thanks Cliffy I appreciate that but I have some 4.7's of the same build quality as the others, so if I use them I'm sure they will be 2.35. You think that's best? I have more of the 2.2's and 2.4's than the 4.7's so I would rather save the 4.7's if I didn't have to use them. The resistors I have are GOLD GOLD I think that's less than 1%. I actually bought them off a fiber-optic company that was going out of business so they're the real deal for sure.
Use the 2.4's they will work fine--it really doesn't have to be that close and a bit too high is better than a bit too low--I suspect the squibs have a no better than +/- 10% tolerance.

If the colors are red red gold gold then they are 5% tolerance--it is a bit surprising they are that close to the marked value, however I have seen higher precision resistors marked as lower tolerance if the customer's specification cited that they "must be 5%" or whatever.
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:23 PM   #20
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Does anyone have the passenger airbag removal instructions or know where the bolts are? Driver side is easy enough, but I'm not sure about the passenger side.
Passenger side air bag RnR...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
At its extreme it is making what you want from what you can get.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:23 PM
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