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4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

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Old 01-25-2012, 10:30 PM   #11
Bpohlman13
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The benefit of a stick crank is the weight. Weighs almost 40lbs lighter then a forged one.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bpohlman13 View Post
The benefit of a stick crank is the weight. Weighs almost 40lbs lighter then a forged one.
thats why i want to keep it, for the NA/nitrous build itll be sick and rev soooooo fast

reason i was asking about the stock crank is im trying to push my brother the do a Tork Tech build on his 04 lol
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:38 PM   #13
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look at mmr's site. They do cryo treating to cranks. Makes them much stronger!
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:10 AM   #14
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if you're not gonna want more than say 600hp, I dont see any issues with the stock scrank. get the mmr base piston/rod kit which is like 700 i believe and rated for 600. stock crank, king si bearings, get it balanced, and you'll come out with a nice shortblock for around 1200 if you can assemble it yourself. I was going to go this route but have a feeling once i make around 600hp, i'll want more after a year or so. haha.
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:12 AM   #15
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Ct what rods and pistons u get? And where from?
mmr kit with mmr hbeams and manley pistons. cost me 900.
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'03 cobra- 2.8 KB mammoth, 19lbs, bolt ons, rxt clutch, sra w/ 3.73's

654/546 whp/tq

Old setup - Ported eaton, 16lbs, minor bolt ons, sra, self tuned.

501/501 - 11.23@124
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:21 AM   #16
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ct, are you staying 2v or going 4v? Also, I see in your sig that you have a custom intake. Any pics?
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:21 AM
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01, 46, 46l, build, buster, cobra, cotote, coyote, crank, crankshaft, gt, mustang, recession, regular, rods, stock

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