Where can I find and buy bullitt brakes?
02-03-2012, 09:08 AM
#21
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There is certainly nothing wrong with getting Bullitt or Cobra brakes, just offers very little over your OEM ones with approx. $350 investment. They look cool and fill the wheels nicely and indeed offer a bit better cooling over GT ones.
Ultimately, this is about addressing issues of heat more than anything else. The Hawk, Porterfield and other pads mentioned in my guide don't have more stopping power, rather have better friction properties and maintain it better when they get hot. It simply takes less pedal pressure to stop, than OEM ones. This is often mixed up with "Improved stopping power", but is the difference between A/S tires and street tires in the snow, looking for grip. This is indeed a good thing, so don't misunderstand, but heat is the enemy of braking, so why I push a braking upgrade for performance Mustangs on the forums.
The OEM rubber lines are fine, UNTIL they get hot. The OEM fluid, provided it is not 3+ years old and full of water molecules, will be fine, until IT gets hot. The OEM pads are fine, until THEY get hot. This is why, not every Mustang needs an upgrade of brakes and only focus on it for those with upgraded performance. If one builds his/her Stang to go fast, chances are, it will need to slow down just as fast, at some point. Even just slowing down fast after cruising at high-speeds, can turn the brakes into mush, as illustrated in the last paragraph of my Brakes Upgrade guide. If you want appearance, go for Bullitt or Cobra brakes and STILL do the upgrades in my guide. If you JUST want an overall safer braking system, do the upgrades in my guide and nothing else, to have exactly that
As for improving the rear brakes, I am not aware of any changes with the IRS Cobra rear-brake bias valve. I suspect it is the same as the SRA one, as the suspension points, with the exception of upper control arms, are the same. If it IS the same percentage of bias, then an upgrade to larger rotors, better calipers, is of very little benefit. I had originally installed a Cobra brake system out back and could tell no seat-of-the-pants improvement whatever. Now, they ARE a better brake, due to larger rotor with improved leverage upon it, but could not tell by driving my car. To make any sugnificant improvement in the SRA rides, one needs to do some serious rear-suspension mods (PHB or WL with TA is what I have done) with a removal of OEM bias valve, replaced with adjustable. This was a difference vastly superior to OEM braking and obvious improvement does not begin to describe how much better my braking is now, than prior. With my Livernois going in this month, I will be shedding some lb's up front and will creep ever so close to the illusive 50/50 mark on braking. Probably at 60/40 currently and stellar is the only way to describe how well my car slows down
Jazzer... with a lil' pimpin' of da new powa-plant
Ultimately, this is about addressing issues of heat more than anything else. The Hawk, Porterfield and other pads mentioned in my guide don't have more stopping power, rather have better friction properties and maintain it better when they get hot. It simply takes less pedal pressure to stop, than OEM ones. This is often mixed up with "Improved stopping power", but is the difference between A/S tires and street tires in the snow, looking for grip. This is indeed a good thing, so don't misunderstand, but heat is the enemy of braking, so why I push a braking upgrade for performance Mustangs on the forums.
The OEM rubber lines are fine, UNTIL they get hot. The OEM fluid, provided it is not 3+ years old and full of water molecules, will be fine, until IT gets hot. The OEM pads are fine, until THEY get hot. This is why, not every Mustang needs an upgrade of brakes and only focus on it for those with upgraded performance. If one builds his/her Stang to go fast, chances are, it will need to slow down just as fast, at some point. Even just slowing down fast after cruising at high-speeds, can turn the brakes into mush, as illustrated in the last paragraph of my Brakes Upgrade guide. If you want appearance, go for Bullitt or Cobra brakes and STILL do the upgrades in my guide. If you JUST want an overall safer braking system, do the upgrades in my guide and nothing else, to have exactly that
As for improving the rear brakes, I am not aware of any changes with the IRS Cobra rear-brake bias valve. I suspect it is the same as the SRA one, as the suspension points, with the exception of upper control arms, are the same. If it IS the same percentage of bias, then an upgrade to larger rotors, better calipers, is of very little benefit. I had originally installed a Cobra brake system out back and could tell no seat-of-the-pants improvement whatever. Now, they ARE a better brake, due to larger rotor with improved leverage upon it, but could not tell by driving my car. To make any sugnificant improvement in the SRA rides, one needs to do some serious rear-suspension mods (PHB or WL with TA is what I have done) with a removal of OEM bias valve, replaced with adjustable. This was a difference vastly superior to OEM braking and obvious improvement does not begin to describe how much better my braking is now, than prior. With my Livernois going in this month, I will be shedding some lb's up front and will creep ever so close to the illusive 50/50 mark on braking. Probably at 60/40 currently and stellar is the only way to describe how well my car slows down
Jazzer... with a lil' pimpin' of da new powa-plant
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 02-03-2012 at 09:13 AM.
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