2000 mustang GT
#21
Do u plan on forced induction or n/a (all motor).
If forced induction you can build your car low compression with a 3:73 gear or something.
Or if you want to go n/a I would highly reccomend 4:10 gears (horrible for forced induction) and build high compression with some nitrous. It depends which way you want to go. How much hp are you looking to get. Set your mind on a hp number you want to meet and how do u want to meet it with a power adder or no?
If forced induction you can build your car low compression with a 3:73 gear or something.
Or if you want to go n/a I would highly reccomend 4:10 gears (horrible for forced induction) and build high compression with some nitrous. It depends which way you want to go. How much hp are you looking to get. Set your mind on a hp number you want to meet and how do u want to meet it with a power adder or no?
#22
dont put any money into....save and buy a cobra. seems like a big goal, but if you really want a nice fast car, its more cost effective to cut your losses now and start fresh. I tallied how much i had into my car at well over 20k with buying price. and even though almost everything mechanical has less than 10k on it my car is still worthless and slow lol. If you want a fast car worth the money you put into it buy a cobra.
#23
My friend has a gt with 14psi on a turbo kit on his mustang he can't even stick in 4th gear with 315's and 4:10s. Maybe it's just the turbo because all the power just hits you when it spools up. I probably meant to be more specific when I said that it's fine with a supercharged but definitely not with a mid to high boost turbo.
#24
My friend has a gt with 14psi on a turbo kit on his mustang he can't even stick in 4th gear with 315's and 4:10s. Maybe it's just the turbo because all the power just hits you when it spools up. I probably meant to be more specific when I said that it's fine with a supercharged but definitely not with a mid to high boost turbo.
completely different powerband than a centri
#25
With a turbo you're gonna want to run like 3.55's. I would be cautios with 4.10s and a pd blower even though it's probably still manageable but I think 4.10s with a centri is great, although I cant compare it with 3.73s
#26
lol yea ^^ buy a ford gt much better idea. Well honestly lots of stuff. all the bolt ons are spendy and dont do ****, but a lot of money went to maintenance. I mean really it was my dd for years. so when my intake went out i bought a metal one 500 bucks. spun rod bearing 800, wheels tires 2500, upper intake, tb, udp, intake, sct tuner. then it got spendy to rebuild the rear with new gears think that was 1200. then tranny swap to 6 speed, new clutch flywheel, that was around 2500. then had to rebuild the motor due to another rod bearing issue, and i have most of my ic SC stuff sitting in a box, thats around 2500 so far. Obviously not all of this is normal. But if i had had a cobra and left it stock, everything in that car was built better and stronger, and they all have way lower mileage, and they are faster. And would still be worth more than any gt. I mean i guess the real lesson i learned is you can put the money into the mustang, but it will never be worth the money, and dont waste money half assing it. thats my 2 cents. I love my car, but if i felt like the monthly payment and didnt almost have everything to make it faster than a cobra right now, id just go buy one.
what i see happening is me scing my car, and within a few months blowing the motor, and if im lucky it only dmgs the motor and none of the new parts i just put on it. But then im out thousands more so that i can put new engine with forged internals in. I mean just for perspective if i didnt have any of the issue with my car, and bought it stock for 8k then saved up like i did for my inter cooled s trim. that i put together with the 1500 sticky stuff. head unit was 800, then all the new stuff you can buy from super chargers online. Then i spend 600 on a tread stone ic. So now i have to switch to blow through with a bov so that adds 600 more between a bov and slot style maf. Then injectors, and im looking at stage 2 cams for 600 plus valve springs for i think its like 200. So we will say thats what, 3500ish for all those parts, some used. 400 for a hand held and we will say 750 for a good tune and a few hundred for a wide band. that puts my total car cost at close to 13k. And should be good for maxing the motor out at around 400-425rwhp. Then the motor blows sky high, and you dont damage the cams or springs or cops, just the block rotating assembly and heads. Now you need a new motor. If you build it yourself 1500 for mmr 600 hp rotating assembly, and you could probably find a used working block and heads for our cars for 500-1000 bucks. And if you leave everything else alone you can get it back together for a total of what say about 3k after gaskets and machineing. Then your still limited to maybe 475 to the wheels and with crap heads for flow. and now your car has about 16k into it and you need a new clutch for 500. and hoping of course the tranny holds up and so does the rear. Or you buy a cobra for 20k thats stock has less than 30k miles on it comes with almost 400rwhp. you put 1500 into it and you have almost 500rwhp reliable not pushing the motor, with parts that for the most part where designed to handle it. And when you want to sell it you primo 16k dollar gt is only worth maybe 12k (and thats assuming lower milage good interior great body)and cobra is probably worth more than what you payed for it.
I know this is almost a rant, and i dont mean it to be, im just a little but hurt that i spent so much time and money and dont feel like i got anywhere. This is also just my opinion, but then again i left out a lot of little things to make a gt better that cost a lot of money anyone who owns one knows the stuff i left out. If im way out in left field someone please let me know not trying to give wrong info or get on peoples bad side.
what i see happening is me scing my car, and within a few months blowing the motor, and if im lucky it only dmgs the motor and none of the new parts i just put on it. But then im out thousands more so that i can put new engine with forged internals in. I mean just for perspective if i didnt have any of the issue with my car, and bought it stock for 8k then saved up like i did for my inter cooled s trim. that i put together with the 1500 sticky stuff. head unit was 800, then all the new stuff you can buy from super chargers online. Then i spend 600 on a tread stone ic. So now i have to switch to blow through with a bov so that adds 600 more between a bov and slot style maf. Then injectors, and im looking at stage 2 cams for 600 plus valve springs for i think its like 200. So we will say thats what, 3500ish for all those parts, some used. 400 for a hand held and we will say 750 for a good tune and a few hundred for a wide band. that puts my total car cost at close to 13k. And should be good for maxing the motor out at around 400-425rwhp. Then the motor blows sky high, and you dont damage the cams or springs or cops, just the block rotating assembly and heads. Now you need a new motor. If you build it yourself 1500 for mmr 600 hp rotating assembly, and you could probably find a used working block and heads for our cars for 500-1000 bucks. And if you leave everything else alone you can get it back together for a total of what say about 3k after gaskets and machineing. Then your still limited to maybe 475 to the wheels and with crap heads for flow. and now your car has about 16k into it and you need a new clutch for 500. and hoping of course the tranny holds up and so does the rear. Or you buy a cobra for 20k thats stock has less than 30k miles on it comes with almost 400rwhp. you put 1500 into it and you have almost 500rwhp reliable not pushing the motor, with parts that for the most part where designed to handle it. And when you want to sell it you primo 16k dollar gt is only worth maybe 12k (and thats assuming lower milage good interior great body)and cobra is probably worth more than what you payed for it.
I know this is almost a rant, and i dont mean it to be, im just a little but hurt that i spent so much time and money and dont feel like i got anywhere. This is also just my opinion, but then again i left out a lot of little things to make a gt better that cost a lot of money anyone who owns one knows the stuff i left out. If im way out in left field someone please let me know not trying to give wrong info or get on peoples bad side.
#27
lol yea ^^ buy a ford gt much better idea. Well honestly lots of stuff. all the bolt ons are spendy and dont do ****, but a lot of money went to maintenance. I mean really it was my dd for years. so when my intake went out i bought a metal one 500 bucks. spun rod bearing 800, wheels tires 2500, upper intake, tb, udp, intake, sct tuner. then it got spendy to rebuild the rear with new gears think that was 1200. then tranny swap to 6 speed, new clutch flywheel, that was around 2500. then had to rebuild the motor due to another rod bearing issue, and i have most of my ic SC stuff sitting in a box, thats around 2500 so far. Obviously not all of this is normal. But if i had had a cobra and left it stock, everything in that car was built better and stronger, and they all have way lower mileage, and they are faster. And would still be worth more than any gt. I mean i guess the real lesson i learned is you can put the money into the mustang, but it will never be worth the money, and dont waste money half assing it. thats my 2 cents. I love my car, but if i felt like the monthly payment and didnt almost have everything to make it faster than a cobra right now, id just go buy one.
what i see happening is me scing my car, and within a few months blowing the motor, and if im lucky it only dmgs the motor and none of the new parts i just put on it. But then im out thousands more so that i can put new engine with forged internals in. I mean just for perspective if i didnt have any of the issue with my car, and bought it stock for 8k then saved up like i did for my inter cooled s trim. that i put together with the 1500 sticky stuff. head unit was 800, then all the new stuff you can buy from super chargers online. Then i spend 600 on a tread stone ic. So now i have to switch to blow through with a bov so that adds 600 more between a bov and slot style maf. Then injectors, and im looking at stage 2 cams for 600 plus valve springs for i think its like 200. So we will say thats what, 3500ish for all those parts, some used. 400 for a hand held and we will say 750 for a good tune and a few hundred for a wide band. that puts my total car cost at close to 13k. And should be good for maxing the motor out at around 400-425rwhp. Then the motor blows sky high, and you dont damage the cams or springs or cops, just the block rotating assembly and heads. Now you need a new motor. If you build it yourself 1500 for mmr 600 hp rotating assembly, and you could probably find a used working block and heads for our cars for 500-1000 bucks. And if you leave everything else alone you can get it back together for a total of what say about 3k after gaskets and machineing. Then your still limited to maybe 475 to the wheels and with crap heads for flow. and now your car has about 16k into it and you need a new clutch for 500. and hoping of course the tranny holds up and so does the rear. Or you buy a cobra for 20k thats stock has less than 30k miles on it comes with almost 400rwhp. you put 1500 into it and you have almost 500rwhp reliable not pushing the motor, with parts that for the most part where designed to handle it. And when you want to sell it you primo 16k dollar gt is only worth maybe 12k (and thats assuming lower milage good interior great body)and cobra is probably worth more than what you payed for it.
I know this is almost a rant, and i dont mean it to be, im just a little but hurt that i spent so much time and money and dont feel like i got anywhere. This is also just my opinion, but then again i left out a lot of little things to make a gt better that cost a lot of money anyone who owns one knows the stuff i left out. If im way out in left field someone please let me know not trying to give wrong info or get on peoples bad side.
what i see happening is me scing my car, and within a few months blowing the motor, and if im lucky it only dmgs the motor and none of the new parts i just put on it. But then im out thousands more so that i can put new engine with forged internals in. I mean just for perspective if i didnt have any of the issue with my car, and bought it stock for 8k then saved up like i did for my inter cooled s trim. that i put together with the 1500 sticky stuff. head unit was 800, then all the new stuff you can buy from super chargers online. Then i spend 600 on a tread stone ic. So now i have to switch to blow through with a bov so that adds 600 more between a bov and slot style maf. Then injectors, and im looking at stage 2 cams for 600 plus valve springs for i think its like 200. So we will say thats what, 3500ish for all those parts, some used. 400 for a hand held and we will say 750 for a good tune and a few hundred for a wide band. that puts my total car cost at close to 13k. And should be good for maxing the motor out at around 400-425rwhp. Then the motor blows sky high, and you dont damage the cams or springs or cops, just the block rotating assembly and heads. Now you need a new motor. If you build it yourself 1500 for mmr 600 hp rotating assembly, and you could probably find a used working block and heads for our cars for 500-1000 bucks. And if you leave everything else alone you can get it back together for a total of what say about 3k after gaskets and machineing. Then your still limited to maybe 475 to the wheels and with crap heads for flow. and now your car has about 16k into it and you need a new clutch for 500. and hoping of course the tranny holds up and so does the rear. Or you buy a cobra for 20k thats stock has less than 30k miles on it comes with almost 400rwhp. you put 1500 into it and you have almost 500rwhp reliable not pushing the motor, with parts that for the most part where designed to handle it. And when you want to sell it you primo 16k dollar gt is only worth maybe 12k (and thats assuming lower milage good interior great body)and cobra is probably worth more than what you payed for it.
I know this is almost a rant, and i dont mean it to be, im just a little but hurt that i spent so much time and money and dont feel like i got anywhere. This is also just my opinion, but then again i left out a lot of little things to make a gt better that cost a lot of money anyone who owns one knows the stuff i left out. If im way out in left field someone please let me know not trying to give wrong info or get on peoples bad side.
I totally agree with you on the Cobras, that is why my last purchase was a 97 Cobra. It is not as powerful as a newer Cobra, but is still a great car. I can concentrate on driving it and having fun without constantly working on it. The car is built to take the power, so you are not constantly chasing broken parts.
#28
but either way you spent all the money and it still isnt on yet, so theres no point in feeling like you spent all the money for the nothing, because at this point you did (the parts are not on the car is what im getting at). So once you put the SC on then you should be very satisfied
#29
im not worried about not being happy. Ill be ecstatic. But my worry comes from all the parts not designed to handle the power. like my rear end with factory 28 splines, i had it rebuilt new bearings and carbon fiber clutches, but its still factory. My transmission, a 10 spline t-56, my clutch a crappy center force that has given me nothing but problems. And finally my factory rebuilt motor with hand port matched heads only good for 425 rwhp. like i said i love my car. But none of it was built for that power. Which means its all border line blow up at that power level thats all. And because of that the risk of not getting to enjoy it before i have to spend thousands more makes me sad.