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Old 04-17-2012, 06:01 PM   #11
TRUEBLUE3934
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Is it just me...???

MT ET Streets are the DRs I run. What would be wrong with using these on a stick car?
A STS won't make you quicker either. It may make you more consistent, but the factory shifter can change gears without problems. I made lots of passes with my factory shifter and never missed a gear.
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:15 PM   #12
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The bias ply et street is obviously a better track tire that the radial, et street bias ply is a wrinkle wall slick, with a manual car it will stick alot better on an aggressive clutch launch.. Even on an auto a bias ply will outperform a radial at the track the only downfall of the bias ply is its a slick, dangerous on street in wet conditions, extremly fast tire wear compared to the et atree radial, and unpredictable bounch around corners and poor handling.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRUEBLUE3934 View Post
Is it just me...???

MT ET Streets are the DRs I run. What would be wrong with using these on a stick car?
A STS won't make you quicker either. It may make you more consistent, but the factory shifter can change gears without problems. I made lots of passes with my factory shifter and never missed a gear.
Nothing wrong with DRs on a stick car. Bias plies just do a better job of absorbing the hit on a stick car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by uberstang1 View Post
The bias ply et street is obviously a better track tire that the radial, et street bias ply is a wrinkle wall slick, with a manual car it will stick alot better on an aggressive clutch launch.. Even on an auto a bias ply will outperform a radial at the track the only downfall of the bias ply is its a slick, dangerous on street in wet conditions, extremly fast tire wear compared to the et atree radial, and unpredictable bounch around corners and poor handling.
^^Yup. The only thing I'll add is that radials usually mph better on the track and dyno better. Less rolling resistance.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #14
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weather is looking good for friday night. i will post times afterwards. hoping that i will get that low 13. differences from last time is the added 3.73 gears, 275 street tires on the rear, and i will NOT forget to let some air out of them.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:26 AM   #15
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get an mgw...i disagree that the stock shifter will get you there. To get the kind of a time with a bolt on car, you have to power shift, and ill tell you now, people have broken factory shifters power shifting. Plus 3rd is at best a possibility not a sure thing with the factory shifter. In all my passes ive only missed 3rd once with the mgw. I ran my fastest on stock gears and 245s. But everyone's different. I didnt let air out either. You have to feather the clutch to maintain the traction, do a good burnout roll it out of the box tires smoking till they catch. Then i always dry hop before i get up to the light, gives me a good idea of how aggressive i can be off the line....trust me that will help. If you really want to get into the 12s. I recommend you take out the passenger seat, rear seat, and the rear stereo speaker holder thingy, its heavy. no spare and a 1/4 of gas. it will be hard as hell with the gears to drive out of the hole, but youll pick up 1.5mph or so which you will need.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:05 PM   #16
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ok, just got back from the track. i might i say that i was VERY disappointed. here are the 4 passes that i made, keep in mind i ran a 13.74 on stock gears, stock 245s, and 35 lbs of air.

pass 1 2 3 4 last year
reaction .190 .117 .044 .195 ds
60 2.59 2.60 2.27 2.30 1.67
et 15.34 14.73 14.59 14.38 13.74
mph 95.37 97.07 96.16 97.11 98.00
launch 2600 2600 2200 2000 2600

on the first pass i made a rookie mistake and didnt unplug the tuner. i went for second gear and got caught on the cord.

both pass 1 and 2 i spun like no other.

pass 3, i lined up against a ws6 ram air trans am and won but let off before the line and he ran a 14.52.

pass 4, i was so sick at this point i was ready to come home and lined up against a honda civic. i beat the ricer by 1.5 secs.

my buddy went with me on both occasions and at the end he only had one word to say "tires". he said that i am putting more power to the ground now and the thin 17" sidewalls cant hold it.

before i put my south side machine control arms on, i think that i need subframe connectors and drag radials. where is the cheapest place to get mt et streets? do you all think this is the way to go before installing the control arms, then shocks?
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:38 PM   #17
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Street tires always hook up worse at the track than they do on the street. You need soft compound tires to hook up well at the track. I could pretty consistently run 2.05 60' on my street tires, but DRs dropped me to 1.75-1.80 with no other mods. I have seen my buddy 60' as low as 1.74 on street tires, but he is incredibly smooth and had 500rwhp turbo.

Your 60' times are KILLING your passes!!! Until you get DRs, you will have to roll out much more gently so you don't go up in smoke.

Do NOT drop the pressure in your street tires to 25psi. You are almost certainly making your traction problem worse, NOT better. The goal is to set the pressure so that you get the maximum contact patch and low tire pressure on your street tires will reduce your contact patch. Street tires and drag tires are two completely different animals, so what works with one will not necessarily work with the other.

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. That is the best advice for new racers.
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:38 PM   #18
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ok, what do you think? do i go with the 275/60 et street or do i go with a 26x10 or 28x10 hoosier slick?
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:03 AM   #19
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describe your burnout to me.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:25 AM   #20
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The launch is everything in these cars. A 26x9-15 Hoosier qtp and gutted interior with te driver mod would get you there.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:25 AM
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