4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

Another coolant leak!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-16-2012, 10:52 AM
  #11  
TonyG
 
TonyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Maryland
Posts: 22
Default

Originally Posted by 99GTvert
Anyone know if I have to disconnect or relieve the fuel line pressure?
The way I do it is by removing the fuse for the fuel pump while the engine is running, and letting the engine die. I can then remove the fuel rails with no fuel spraying out.
TonyG is offline  
Old 05-16-2012, 12:41 PM
  #12  
99GTvert
is my username.
Thread Starter
 
99GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Earth
Posts: 13,807
Default

I'm probably just going to bleed the schrader(?) valve. I haven't started the car in a while so I doubt there is much pressure in the system anyway.
99GTvert is offline  
Old 05-16-2012, 04:13 PM
  #13  
99GTvert
is my username.
Thread Starter
 
99GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Earth
Posts: 13,807
Default

Bled the schrader valve, nothing came out. TB/Plenum is off the manifold but the alternator is still on. The water pump pulley is blocking the final bolt from backing all the way out, however even if I set the alternator back in place and put the serpentine belt on, the water pump pulley still spins if I try to remove any one of the four nuts. Any ideas? I might still be able to do the job if the final alternator bolt is still in because I do have wiggle room with the other bolts/bracket off.

...well, ****. The bottom bolt in question is like a perch for the alternator, so it slipped right out.

Last edited by 99GTvert; 05-16-2012 at 06:48 PM.
99GTvert is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 12:01 AM
  #14  
ESABATM
2nd Gear Member
 
ESABATM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 191
Default

a rubber strap wrench on the WP pulley would help you out for the last bolt.
ESABATM is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 12:14 AM
  #15  
99GTvert
is my username.
Thread Starter
 
99GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Earth
Posts: 13,807
Default

Originally Posted by ESABATM
a rubber strap wrench on the WP pulley would help you out for the last bolt.
That's not a bad idea but the last bolt stayed in the block as it didn't need to be removed to pull up the alternator (which I didn't find out until a while after I made the post).

I pulled the tb/plenum off and fuel rails but some gas dripped out and I'm hoping I cleaned it up enough. Some injectors did not come off with the fuel rails...but they didn't look too bad when I removed them. Also pulled out a spark plug and...it's been in for too long lol (gap is ****ed and has white deposits on the end).

Tomorrow I'm going to do all 8 plugs, torque them right and then pull off the manifold and clean the surface. Does that paper towel/vacuum idea in the link above seem like a good method?
99GTvert is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 12:32 AM
  #16  
WhiteFoxGT
Resident Ford Troll
 
WhiteFoxGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 6,717
Default

when you remove all 8 plugs, make sure to disable the fuel and crank the motor over with the key for a few seconds. make sure no coolant is in any of the cylinders/intake ports. then install everything. Also, when putting the fuel injectors back in, lube the o-rings with some motor oil before jamming the rail back on
WhiteFoxGT is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 10:41 AM
  #17  
99GTvert
is my username.
Thread Starter
 
99GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Earth
Posts: 13,807
Default

Originally Posted by WhiteFoxGT
when you remove all 8 plugs, make sure to disable the fuel and crank the motor over with the key for a few seconds. make sure no coolant is in any of the cylinders/intake ports. then install everything. Also, when putting the fuel injectors back in, lube the o-rings with some motor oil before jamming the rail back on
To disable the fuel I just pull the fuel pump fuse?

Also, won't the OBDII want to an hero since everything (plugs, injectors, IAC, MAF, alternator etc) is unplugged? Because I figure to get the starter working I would hook up the battery again and install the alternator so the serp belt will crack the engine from the starter.

I don't think there is any coolant in any of the ports since the leak was from the thermostat area..I think.
99GTvert is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 11:18 AM
  #18  
WhiteFoxGT
Resident Ford Troll
 
WhiteFoxGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 6,717
Default

it will still crank with everything unplugged. no need to put the belt or alt on yet. just hook the battery up, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank it for a solid 10 seconds with the plugs out and intake off. Do this just before you install the intake back on. After cleaning and wiping down the ports and whatnot. Its always a safe thing to do just in case any coolant managed to drip down there. takes no extra work other than yanking a fuse
WhiteFoxGT is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 11:26 AM
  #19  
99GTvert
is my username.
Thread Starter
 
99GTvert's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Earth
Posts: 13,807
Default

Originally Posted by WhiteFoxGT
it will still crank with everything unplugged. no need to put the belt or alt on yet. just hook the battery up, pull the fuel pump fuse, and crank it for a solid 10 seconds with the plugs out and intake off. Do this just before you install the intake back on. After cleaning and wiping down the ports and whatnot. Its always a safe thing to do just in case any coolant managed to drip down there. takes no extra work other than yanking a fuse
OK cool. Thanks for the tip.
99GTvert is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 11:36 AM
  #20  
kj4kym
1st Gear Member
 
kj4kym's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: tennessee
Posts: 104
Default

Papertowl and vacuum trick worked good for me... I honestly don't know any other way to get rid of the crap that comes off
kj4kym is offline  


Quick Reply: Another coolant leak!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 PM.