Clockwise--you want to loosen the cable to move the engagement point lower. However it should be adjusted so there is 1 to 1-3/8" of free play in the pedal--press on the pedal with your hand, it should move 1 to 1-3/8" before you feel the throwout bearing begin to compress the spring fingers...
Gary if your looking to change the height of the pedal your best bet is to get a triple hook quadrant and try each hook while adjusting the clutch properly untill you get the desired pedal feel. You just don't wanna adjust the firewall adjuster to the point where you like the pedal, it should be adjusted specifically to how cliff mentioned, and looser and the clutch wont fully disengage when the pedals pressed and any tighter the clutch will be partially disengaged when driving. The first could cause trans damage, the later clutch damage.
Pedal height is fine, it was the grab point that drove me crazy. The clutch wouldn't engage until the pedal was at the top and almost out. Gave the dial about 10 turns and it seems fine now.
The clutch pedal looks newer, I don't know if it is a replacement pedal from stock or some other type of pedal... looks to new to be original.
I can drive a stick, but adjusting them accordingly is a little out of my mechanical expertise area. Hence looking for advice on the adjust side. Maybe I should have you give a drive Uber and see if you can dial it in.
^+1, and if you adjust it to accomplish 1 to 1-3/8" of pedal free play it will be just right.
The clutch controls (pedal, quadrant, release lever, pivot ball) have an overall mechanical advantage of almost exactly 10:1 between the pedal and the TOB--meaning that 1" of pedal travel causes the TPB to move 0.1". By setting the pedal freeplay to 1 to 1-3/8" you are setting the TOB to spring finger clearance to 0.1 to 0.1375", pretty close to the 0.1 to 0.125" recommended clearance.