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Bman2000 08-03-2014 08:36 PM

What radiator are you using!!!
So just finished my stroker hci lt car now it's in break in mode but I was sitting idling for a while, and didn't realize that the car was awesome to see after installing 10k motor...anyway it is hot out but I was surprised to see it over heat idling, since my last sc set up wasn't a lot different at idle but it never had an issue that I know of. In any case I fried the rag joint and the car didn't like it much but now I'm thinking the factory radiator may not be up to the task, what power levels and cooling system are you running in your car? This is a max effort Si trim hci 5.0 so I imagine under full tilt it wi,l get Any ideas.

kast1376 08-03-2014 10:58 PM

I am mostly stock but replaced the stock gt radiator with a 03/04 cobra unit due to a leak.

uberstang1 08-08-2014 10:06 AM

I noticed a big temp different with my fluidyne, but it has a slight leak somewhere which developed early. Hasn't been an issue minus a wiff of smell every now and again.

Bman2000 08-09-2014 10:12 AM

Uber did you need it? Cuz you make a little over 600 rwhp right? Was it a necessary upgrade to keep the car from over heating or was it just to help keep it cool for back to back runs?

uberstang1 08-09-2014 08:14 PM

No matter what the outside temp is my car hasnt gone over 185 degrees woth it. Stop and go traffic or back to back track passes

Bman2000 08-10-2014 10:38 AM

I just mean did you find out after you built the set up that you needed it? Or did you just install it as part of your build?

uberstang1 08-12-2014 07:36 AM

I got it from the get go without it im surw it be running 200 210 regularly

Bman2000 08-12-2014 10:11 AM

Thanks, I'm just trying to figure out if in going to be able to enjoy my car at all this summer. I'm close to 15k in this years changes and I don't have any money left for cooling upgrades. I knew I would need it but I figured I'd need it for road race or auto cross not street and strip. So far on the street it's been fine minus one day. With any luck it won't over heat on the dyno

kast1376 08-12-2014 12:28 PM


Originally Posted by Bman2000 (Post 8417447)
Thanks, I'm just trying to figure out if in going to be able to enjoy my car at all this summer. I'm close to 15k in this years changes and I don't have any money left for cooling upgrades. I knew I would need it but I figured I'd need it for road race or auto cross not street and strip. So far on the street it's been fine minus one day. With any luck it won't over heat on the dyno

If you haven't done so yet, replace the stock thermostat with a 180 degree one. After a crack in my manifold was found (where the plastic meets the aluminum), my mechanic recommended getting a cooler thermostat that should help with keeping the plastic from heat cycling, and keeping things slightly cooler. Curious to see how much it will help along with the Cobra radiator in the summer time here in Sacramento.

uberstang1 08-12-2014 01:18 PM

What do you have 15k tied up into?

RMK01GT 08-12-2014 07:21 PM

are you sure you need a new radiator? at idle, with the fans running it should more more than efficient enough to cool off ANY engine...

Check for other issues first;

- proper amount of coolant
- engine oil level
- is the thermostat opening when it reaches temp
- Is the rad cap in good condition
- are the fans running
- is there a blockage between cooler and condenser
- head gasket issues

you may know about all these things, but I decided to post this because no one else has commented on other problems that could cause overheating

Bman2000 08-13-2014 09:14 AM

I thought stock thermostat was 180? In anycase I don't have a factory intake I have a eddy vic jr. And as far as what I have that much tied up into.
1000s 5.0 mmr stroker 24cc dish arp 2000 hardware
Ap steel rings
Melling high pressure oil pump
Mhs Stage 3 head cam combo w manley beadlock ss valves stage 3 blower cams with hd springs
Victor jr with eddy fuel rails sheet metal upper intake.
10%od innovators west dampener
BBK lt with cat less x pipe.
Snow stage 3 water methanol injection
Mcleod original twin w/ aliminum flywheel
Custom made 26 spline input.
That was the stuff to make this set up work, then the tranny dropped 4th so now I have bronze shift pads the shift forks were already steel, carbon fiber blocker rings and billet keys.
And even though it wasn't in this years upgrade I also have a lethal performance budget return system running 2 aeromotive stealth 340s, and a vortech si trim with a 3.25 tungsten carbide coating and a tread stone 3 core Fmic tial 50mm bov and hpx slow style maf through 75mm accufab tb.

I also tried repainting the car but the clear had epic issues but just this year I have receipts for pretty close to is say about 14k. Not including paint stuff. And at this point the other stuff I need to fix like my melted steering shaft and burned o2 sensors...

Bman2000 08-13-2014 11:13 AM

I honestly think the over heating was a fan issue. But it was hot as balls out and when the ac stopped working I forgot to check the fans I was more curious as to why the ac stopped working. So once I fix the steering shaft and o2 sensors I'll be checking that stuff out because like you I don't see it over heating at idle. Even though humidity was high and it was 95 out lol

kast1376 08-13-2014 11:33 AM

Stock Therm is 195 I believe. My new intake goes on tomorrow along with a 180 degree therm. It should make a little difference hopefully.

uberstang1 08-13-2014 02:07 PM

I will say with my fluidyne, my electric fan has never kicked on yet.

Bman2000 08-13-2014 08:13 PM

Do you street drive that beast?lol I mean I know it says street car just looks all mean and ****...what is your set up anyway?

uberstang1 08-14-2014 07:06 AM

Street drive it all the time including 60 miles to the track and back home?
. Drive it 120 miles to carlisle ever year as well. 04 cobra block with 04 crank and rods, mmr street mod pistons. B beads, custom grind blower cams goin in now manley nextek valve springs. D1sc on 20psi at 5900rpms 603rwhp before cams. Should be about 700 with cams and revvin to 7. Viper spec t56 with liberty 26 spline input. N2mb wot box, blown up rear atm but 31 spline mpsers 04 diff welded tubes 4.10s. Team z 4 ljnk setup tubular front end, caged, 28x12.50 et streets. Sure im missing sometging but witg stock heads and cams was floating springs at 5900rpms but at 590p ot makde 603/522 on 20 psi

Bman2000 08-14-2014 08:51 AM

I was gonna say 5900 seems low for that kind of build but lack of cams and springs would explain it, I'd say you stand a good Chance at 700, how much you have left in the blower? Sounds like your current set up may be maxed at 7k. In any case I'm hoping for your current numbers but at 7k instead of 5900 through an si trim.

uberstang1 08-14-2014 09:38 AM

My d1sc is about pullied out, and I run a 10%od crank. Curious to see how much boost was missing from 5900 to 7k though, probably gonna add meth as well considering the boost to pump gas ratio as well.

Bman2000 08-14-2014 10:05 AM

Is it pullied out at 5900? Or current set up will max sc out at 7? I've seen almost 700 out of a 2v on a d1sc but that doesn't flow near as well as b heads and it was on e-85. You def need meth, surprised you aren't running it already with 20psi. Your leaving a lot on the table I would think. My tuner wouldn't let me run 18 without meth lol. You just ed up pulling all the timing to make it work anyway almost seems pointless but it obviously worked in your case

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