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4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

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Old 09-08-2014, 01:11 AM   #21
Bman2000
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Yea, like I said not holding my breath. But next to none is better than none. I'm also not the only car to hit it. Honestly the repair of my engine wouldn't be a whole lot more expensive than having to rebuild a factory one. Because in my case it would t be the entire engine like it would in most vehicles. But it is what it is. Not sure what I'm doing with it anymore.
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1000s forged 5.0 teksid build
Melling hp oil pump 7 qt pan
Stage 3 mhs ported heads oversized manley beadlock valves
Stage 3 sc cams (degreed)
Victor jr intake hand blended, sheet metal upper, 75mm tb eddy fuel rails deka 60#injectors
BBK lt headers
Vortech si trim 3.25 upper innovators west 10%od crank pullie
Tread stone Fmic, custom discharge/intake tubes with tial q 50mm bov. Hpx slot style maf.
Lethal performance budget return system with twin aeromotive stealth 340 pumps.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:15 AM   #22
Bman2000
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I'd take them giving me money for a stock removal rebuild and reinstall...lol I could probably fix it with that.
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1000s forged 5.0 teksid build
Melling hp oil pump 7 qt pan
Stage 3 mhs ported heads oversized manley beadlock valves
Stage 3 sc cams (degreed)
Victor jr intake hand blended, sheet metal upper, 75mm tb eddy fuel rails deka 60#injectors
BBK lt headers
Vortech si trim 3.25 upper innovators west 10%od crank pullie
Tread stone Fmic, custom discharge/intake tubes with tial q 50mm bov. Hpx slot style maf.
Lethal performance budget return system with twin aeromotive stealth 340 pumps.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:02 PM   #23
Soldier GT
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I win. Motor went Tits up tonight. No idea what happened still seems to have oil pressure but it must have dropped at some point because I have what sounds to be a massive rod know. I'm done with this car. If anyone see stuff they want to buy let me know.

Da** Bman you gotta be kidding me. From experience man I defiently know what you're going through. The last time my engine blew it was two days after the dyno. I'm in the same boat you're in. Haven't put over 100 miles on the car in the last three years. Problems, after problems.... Are you going to fix it? When my engine blew last time I thought about taking it out to the back forty and putting it out of its misery. But da** man to much invested and I still have parts that I haven't installed yet. I bit the bullet and bought a new MMR 900 short block and will be sending the SC off to Vortech for a rebuild. Ill also be spending a littler more (well a lot more) and will be getting everything installed at a very reputable place along with a warranty. Hopfully you'll get her running soon. GL!
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Old 09-12-2014, 12:41 AM   #24
Bman2000
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Technically I bought the car with a bad engine, had bearings done. Drive it for like 20k then rebuilt the engine, that's the engine I supercharged, 2 days after final bent the rod. But not before spending like 7k buying parts for the sc and replacing failed parts that couldn't handle the stress from the sc. This motor I spent about 12k on(that's building it myself) if I had ordered the short block from mmr would be about 6100. Before shipping. Can't afford that... In anycase, it was bad road...basically an accident. I may still rebuild I don't know. At this point I think it's just bottom end, most likely just bearings which is easy enough. I'll finish checking the cylinder walls tomorrow but if the are all healthy it leaves all the damage to the crank and bearings most likely. With any luck it didn't damage the rods. Least I'll probably do is rebuild it to sell it. A lot easier to sell when I prove it has 600rwhp. Even though parting it out may get me more money ..
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1000s forged 5.0 teksid build
Melling hp oil pump 7 qt pan
Stage 3 mhs ported heads oversized manley beadlock valves
Stage 3 sc cams (degreed)
Victor jr intake hand blended, sheet metal upper, 75mm tb eddy fuel rails deka 60#injectors
BBK lt headers
Vortech si trim 3.25 upper innovators west 10%od crank pullie
Tread stone Fmic, custom discharge/intake tubes with tial q 50mm bov. Hpx slot style maf.
Lethal performance budget return system with twin aeromotive stealth 340 pumps.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:57 AM   #25
PurpleIcedGT
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My vote is part that cursed mother ****** out. Good luck man
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:30 PM   #26
Bman2000
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The hard part is all the money that's in it. But the parts are so well built that damage now is way cheeper to fix than when it was stock. There does appear to be scoring on the walls but appears to not be deep, if that's the case I can probably get away with just honing them and turning the crank, new mains and rod bearings and I should be back in business. I may just try and sell it. But at some point the car will work great, the question do I want to keep trying. I can't really start over I don't have enough money right now, could be 10 years to get back to this level. I may be better off with the curse lol.
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1000s forged 5.0 teksid build
Melling hp oil pump 7 qt pan
Stage 3 mhs ported heads oversized manley beadlock valves
Stage 3 sc cams (degreed)
Victor jr intake hand blended, sheet metal upper, 75mm tb eddy fuel rails deka 60#injectors
BBK lt headers
Vortech si trim 3.25 upper innovators west 10%od crank pullie
Tread stone Fmic, custom discharge/intake tubes with tial q 50mm bov. Hpx slot style maf.
Lethal performance budget return system with twin aeromotive stealth 340 pumps.
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:12 AM   #27
Soldier GT
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The hard part is all the money that's in it. But the parts are so well built that damage now is way cheeper to fix than when it was stock. There does appear to be scoring on the walls but appears to not be deep, if that's the case I can probably get away with just honing them and turning the crank, new mains and rod bearings and I should be back in business. I may just try and sell it. But at some point the car will work great, the question do I want to keep trying. I can't really start over I don't have enough money right now, could be 10 years to get back to this level. I may be better off with the curse lol.
Yeah Bman I most defiently hear you. This is my last time. That's why I went with all new parts and will be getting it installed by a shop that will give me a warranty. Sh** still happens and if it does this time I'm getting rid of her and maybe buy a 5.0 just hate to have payments.
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Vortech V-1 T Trim SC (intercooled)
HP 292 cams
Teksid SB bored .030 over (forged)
433 RWHP/390 RWTQ
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Old Yesterday, 09:51 AM   #28
Bman2000
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Just be very careful what kind of shop you choose. There are good shops out there but I find that a lot of shops, and mechanics, are far from this level of capable. Which is why I built it myself, because I know it was built correctly. But my damage wouldn't have been covered by a warrantee anyway. I had a friend who has his built by a mustang shop. But for some reason they had a hard time getting rod bolts to tq? Anyway supposedly they warned him about it but built the engine anyway and it came apart on the Dyno first time it hit 3000rpm. Then he had to buy a new short block built by mmr, because they would t pay for it, then they did the install. But the engine was all beat to **** looked very unprofessional. And honestly they never should have closed that motor up with questionable rods, any good shop would know that. So I just refuse to put 12k in someone else's hands... Same reason I didn't have mmr build it...didn't feel like paying to have it built and tearing it down to check it all.
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1000s forged 5.0 teksid build
Melling hp oil pump 7 qt pan
Stage 3 mhs ported heads oversized manley beadlock valves
Stage 3 sc cams (degreed)
Victor jr intake hand blended, sheet metal upper, 75mm tb eddy fuel rails deka 60#injectors
BBK lt headers
Vortech si trim 3.25 upper innovators west 10%od crank pullie
Tread stone Fmic, custom discharge/intake tubes with tial q 50mm bov. Hpx slot style maf.
Lethal performance budget return system with twin aeromotive stealth 340 pumps.
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Old Yesterday, 09:51 AM
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